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Showing results for tags '4.3'.
Found 24 results
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The is the evolution of my 2015 Silverado These are the dealer pictures
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Hello all. I am a semi-frequent user of GMTrucks.com. I’ve had several cosmetic and suspension modifications to my truck (Bilstein 5100’s, roadactive suspension, hellwig rear sway bar, interior mods), nothing major in the drivetrain. I just crossed 50,000 miles, and it looks like yet another TCC failure (first one at 24,500 to 25,000 miles). It’s a 2020 Custom Trail Boss, 4.3. When the first converter failed, they ended up putting 2 thermal bypass valves in it. After the last TBV change, transmission never sees over 150°. What do I need to do to have GM put a better converter in my truck to prevent future hangups (sonnax, maybe)? How should I approach this to ensure I don’t keep losing my truck for weeks at a time? I don’t overload it, I don’t dog it, and the fluid still looks clean (changed with last thermal bypass valve at 30,000 miles, total fluid exchange and filter replacement). It seems like every 25,000 miles, I’ll be back for another torque converter. I don’t haul or tow frequently. When I do, it’s usually no more than a single axle utility trailer with some light household refuse, or an enclosed single wheel with a flat track motorcycle in it. Bike weighs 600 pounds. Tongue weight below the 1,760 payload rating on the sticker in the door. I’ve never gone more than about 40 miles when towing. Usually interstate or rural rustic road (55 mph and no traffic) Any suggestions? I really like the truck and don’t want to trade it in. It suits me for what I need, and I’ve put a lot of time and love into this machine. -
Just changed the oil on my 2014 gmc sierra 4.3l. It required six quarts of oil which is what i used but now i am afraid if its overfilled or not. Its a completely different reading than what it was before the oil change. Althought its not above the hashmarks there are 2 dots on there which I’m not sure if those are the oil level indicators or the hashmarks are the oil level indicators. The dots are kinda hidden which is why I’m not sure if those even are oil indicators dots. Im really hoping i filled it up correctly and wont ruin the engine by overfilling the oil. I installed a fumoto valve so it could be easier to drain excess oil. I do note there was a metallic ticking noise that was present before the oil change but disappeared afterwards. following picture (2) is before the oil change one of each side of the dipstick The next two fuller looking ones are after the oil change one for each side of the dipstick
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Hello all, ive recently bought a new to me single owner 2014 gmc sierra 4.3 4x4 double cab with 43,000 miles on it. It has flex fuel standard and was wondering wether or not i should run e85. It is available local and pretty cheap, but ive heard that if the truck has ran gas most of its life the e85 would cleanse the deposits and possibly clog the fuel lines or fuel pump. Should it be safe to switch over to e85 ? Or could i just start running 89 since ive also read that its more beneficial running 89 or 93 over 87 due to detonation
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I want to start by saying i understand i am working my truck a tad hard. And I AM going to continue. I just want to protect it as much as possible while doing that. I have a 2014 silverado with the 4.3 v6. 102,000 miles and never a problem. Owned since new. When i haul heavy up gravel roads my tranny gets hot like....220-240. I am a carpenter and pull materials and box trailers. I installed a snow plow this year which is snow moving so not a lot of air moving past radiator. I have hit 250 before. I had the transmission flushed at 50,000 and again at 100,000. But i would like to get my temps down. I am thinking an aftermarket fan? An additional tranny cooler? From what i read the tranny cooler is basically built into the radiator. And because the engine runs so hot you wont get too much cooling ability. Also it dosnt start actively cooling until 190? So i guess i need to adjust my thinking to the trucks 190 and up temperature range. But I am not happy with 230 for hours on end. I dont plow commercially just a few small drive ways. Any technical advice, not just opinions(lol) would help.
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Have a 2014 4.3 Silverado with around 180k miles. About two weeks ago I noticed that whenever I’m driving (any speed) and press the gas pedal halfway or more for about 5 seconds I notice it starts to go from normal 210° to around 220° once I start to see it go up I let off and it goes back down. I could let it idle with the ac on and it’ll never go past 210 only when I step on it even with the ac off. The coolant is always at the top, the fans turn on when the ac is on , I haven’t seen any leaks, the radiator hose is hot after driving and radiator doesn’t have too much build up on it from the outside . I’ve replaced the thermostat twice in the past year and a half because both times they went out and marked 0° the whole time while driving causing my fans to always stay on (I just disconnected the battery for 10 min and after it would only mark around 100° but I only did it so the fans wouldn’t turn on, and It ended up being the housing) I also don’t think it’s the thermostat because otherwise it would go up and down like the other times And it only goes up when I know it will (when I floor it a little bit). Any idea what it could be? -
I recently got a 2000 chevy s10 LS 4.3 v6 4wd that wont start it cranks no problem everything else works but the security light is always on it never flashes its solid i have tried the relearn procedure 10 times nothing i have scanned it for codes got none i have tried putting a ziptie tip in the passlock plug in and nothing i have found a forum that is having the same issue but they did the resistor and it didnt work for them i dont know what to do to fix it and get it to run i dont have the money and dont want to take it to the dealer so dont suggest that if you know how to fix it please let me know thank you. -
I have a 2006 4.3 V6 Silverado 1500 WT that as of yesterday will not start. The last time I drove the truck was about a week ago before I parked it at the house. Luckily, its in my driveway so I can work on it. I'm a little confused though on why its not starting. I have tested the fuel rail pressure and have 59lbs when the fuel pump is engaged and about 59-61lbs when I try to crank the engine. I've tested the spark on all 6 cylinders with an inline spark tester and have posted the video of the number 3 cylinder's test below. They all managed to light the plug up telling me I have some spark, but i dont know how much spark at the plugs. I then checked the high tension line by trying to get it to arc off a ground bolt. It was sending power as i managed to shock myself through rubber handle channel locks, but it wasnt creating a visable arc. I also pulled a few plugs and they all were dry but had a color to them as if they were burning normally. I also tried shooting some starting fluid directly into the throttle body during crank; that didnt give me anything either. I'm thinking I have a spark issue; but am confused as I have spark at the plugs. Perhaps its not enough? My battery is dead now from troubleshooting so i'll be waiting for a charger to come in tomorrow. Until then - any suggestions???
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Hi I have a 2015 Chev Silverado, 4.3 engine with a new engine put in 100,000km ago as oil pump went on it before. Now I have a miss on cylinder 5. I swapped coils from cylinder 5 to cylinder 1, new spark plugs put in on cylinder 5 and 3, put new spark plug wires on 1,3,&5. Got injectors all cleaned and tested. Checked and replaced the oil pressure filter on it. And still have a steady miss on cylinder 5 still, which is more apparent when the engine warms up. Did a compression test with cylinder 5 being at 130psi and cylinder 1 also being at 130psi and that was engine cold and hot . I am on a total loss of where to go now. Other than replace the engine or rip it all apart. Could use some insight PLEASE. Thanks in advance
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Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#$@ or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!! -
Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#$@ or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!!
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I have a 1999 s10 blazer with a 4.3 motor i'm putting in a 2002 4.3 motor and the crank sensor whole is different what can i do? Are there any other differences i know about as well? -
Im swapping a 4.3 out of a silverado 2003 into a 1996 silverado trans is 4l60 e. Out of a 1998 jimmy they changed transmission to ls style for. 2003 4.3. Do they sell adapters for this. Or a special torque converter. Can I just use the ls to 4l60e adapter with new bell housing if I swap trans to 2003 it moves everything back 3/4 of an inch do I have to modify drive shaft trans mount
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I'm trying to swap 4.3 2003 into 1998 4l60e its done on ls swaps all the time I think I need bellhousing flex plate torque converter adapter anyone chime in no negative Nancy's please
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2014 Silverado 1500 2wd 4.3l DI. 150,000 miles. Fleet vehicle with decos oil changes every 4,000 miles. Came in with a misfire. Counters showed cyl 1. Replaced plugs and wires (Delco). No change. Looked at injector balance and seemed to have a bad #1 injector. Replaced 1,3, and 5 injectors (delco) and the 2 stainless under manifold fuel lines. No change. Removed 1 and 3 plugs compression seemed very low on cyl 1. Performed induction service (BG). No change. Re-performed compression test. Much better 210 psi but still running like crap. Pulled left valve cover and removed #1 cyl rockers to close valves. Performed leakdown test. Only 5% leak at 100 psi. Help?!? -
2015 4.3 to 6.2 swap (l86)/8l90e issues
B M posted a topic in 2014-2019 Engine, Driveline, & Exhaust
Hi, first time posting on here, I hope I am not bringing up an issue that has been solved or brought up elsewhere. Here we go, I have a 2015 single cab swb 4x4 that came with a 4.3/6l80e, i have swapped this to a 2017 l86/ 8l90e. Truck was fully operational prior to swap no issues, upon completing the mechanical portion of the swap and starting the electrical checkout I have run into some issues. Truck will power up bcm/ gauge cluster with no issue/ lights but I have no ecm activation as fars fuel system coming on or engine rolling over. I am getting the following DTCs: 2535, U0100, 1029( low voltage from fuel system). I have reached out to 8+ different shops for assitance and offered to pay for their time but have not recieved a solution or either not enough experience with newer truck/ motor systems, if there is anyone that has any thoughts/ recommendations/ experience/ solutions on this would be great or a capable shop around north Texas, I am all ears, really excited to figure out what is going and get this on the road. Also everything is 100% factory parts other than texas speed cam and delete kit. -
I'm looking at a 2015 1500 with a 4.3, 3.42 gears. I would add a leveling kit with 33x12.5s. What should I be expecting for gas mileage? Would a 5.3 get better MPG with the lift/tires? What is your current tire/lift/engine/mpg? I tried the search feature but couldn't find a ton of what I was looking for.
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2017 Chevy Sliverado. Does anyone make a cheaper 4.3 LV3 intake tube, that goes between the airbox and throttle body, than Airaid? $169.00 is a lot of money for a curved piece of plastic. I just want to get rid of that huge piece of plastic so I can see the down the front of the engine. I could make one from a turbo plumbing kit, but it would be easier to plug and play. Thanks. -
Here's an issue that has me stumped. 2000 Silverado, 4.3, 200K mi. Truck runs great, no oil consumption. I have a very random oil pressure fluctuation, normally I have 40 psi (+ or - 5psi) pretty steady, not affected by rpm or temp. about 20,000 mi. ago I started getting a lifter tick on start up accompanied by crazy fluctuation in oil pressure relative to rpm ( 15psi at idle and 60+ at 3500) It will do this for maybe a week and then stop....no tick and steady oil pressure again. Truck has always had regular oil changes with quality oil (dino) and a Wix filter, I've tried Lucas oil additive, Marvel, different viscosities between 10-30 and 15-40 nothing makes it worse or better. Seems to go away by itself and then return completely at random. Sometimes it will go 5k with no issues, other times maybe 2k. Not affected by oil changes or mileage...just comes and goes. Always lifter tick and oil fluctuation....tick goes away and so does crazy oil pressure. WTF is going on?
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I am really interested in swapping out my 4.3 Vortec for a v8 in my 2003 Silverado 4x4 5speed manual. Any tips or advice and what is needed for this swap? I have read some posts about this but they all have different info on what is needed and difficulty etc.. thanks!
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I picked up a 2018 Silverado custom with the 4.3 a few months ago, i love it so far but the only thing i dont like is that it is way to quiet compared to my old silverado. Has anyone put an exhaust on that makes a little more noise but dosen't make the v6 sound like a subaru? I want some noise out of this beast!
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GM/Chevrolets claimed tow rating doesn't add up when crunching the numbers between the 4.3 V6 3.42 model vs the 5.3 V8 3.08 model (2014-2018). Look at the last two columns in the below chart for torque (ft./lbs.) coming out the differential towards the wheels. (These numbers do NOT account for drive train loss, at the wheel ratio changes due to various tire sizes, and the engine torque was taken as published (383 for 5.3 and 303 for 4.3 V6). The ROWS are gears 1 (top) through 6 (bottom). The formula used was: Step 1) Transmission gear ratio multiplied by Rear end gear ratio = Final Drive Ratio. Step 2) Final Drive Ratio multiplied by engine torque = TORQUE coming out of the differential to the wheels. Torque coming out of the differential and to the wheels what gives a vehicle its POWER to pull and move weight. The 5.3 with 3.08 BEATS (MORE POWER) the 4.3 with 3.42 in EVERY GEAR I understand there is more to ratings for tow capacity than just pulling power, however the 5.3 and 4.3 share the same frame, suspension, 6 speed transmission, etc. which means the only variable between the two models is the engine. Since the 5.3 with the 3.08 rear end CLEARLY has MORE torque going to the wheels than the 4.3 with the 3.42 rear end how does Chevy/GMC claim that the V6 model can tow more? The only thing I can think of is MAYBE the 4.3 runs cooler than the 5.3 so the engine is capable of sustaining high RPMs for a longer period of time...
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Hey fellas. New to the site. Just picked up a new 2017 Sierra 4.3 Ecotec3 a few weeks ago. As you can see by the pic, I wasted no time in sprucing her up. I did a ton of research on this new V6 prior to buying, and decided to give it a try. Anyway...Ive read alot (mostly from GM sources) talking about the performance benefits with with using E85 in this particular engine. The numbers are impressive, but I remain skeptical. Everything I've ever been told about Ethanol in flex fuel motors, is "stay away". The long term damage on metal components just isnt worth it. But I'm being led to believe that is no longer an issue with this new V6? Open to any and all suggestions. Keep in mind, MPG is not a factor. My drive to work is 8 miles, and E85 here in Indy is a full $1 cheaper than unleaded per gallon.
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From the album: 2014
2014 crew cab LT 4.3 v6
