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Found 618 results

  1. In case anyone is looking into buying a set of Method Race Wheels I figured I would share the current situation I am in with them. After searching long and hard for a nice clean wheel I settled on the Method Race Standard wheels in machined silver 20". The market has limited availability of machined wheels especially with the simulated beadlock look, seems to be a lot of black and gray wheels. I bought my wheels in Sept through Discount Tire Direct with their holiday rebates it was a good deal. Bought Falken AT3W's at the same time. The wheels have a 2 year warranty. Rust #1: In November I noticed all of the bolts along the rims (the beadlock bolts) were starting to rust. Looks like the SS coating was comprised during the install process because all the rust was on the impact area of whatever wrench was use to tighten them at the factory. I got a hold of Discount Tire Direct and they quickly shipped me out new bolts for all 4 wheels. Something like 70-80 bolts in total I think. I have not installed them yet as I am waiting for winter to end. Issue 1 resolved and in the books less than 4 months into ownership. Rust #2: Noticed this week the hardware around the center caps was starting to rust and stain the chrome center caps. I contacted Discount Tire Direct that night and they are sending out new center caps and hardware. I also contacted Method Race Wheels via facebook and email to asked about longevity of their hardware. Have not heard back from them yet. Did some research and found that this is a common issue with Method Race wheels that very few have found a permanent solution to. I live in the Midwest so my wheels see all 4 seasons including salt season. I don't take the wheels off during winter. I have Fuel Trophy wheels on my last truck and after a few years of use they still looked brand new, even the non-removable bolts along the edge were perfect. I'm less than 6 months into my Method Race Wheel ownership and all the hardware is being replaced. I am working on a long term solution with Discount Tire but figured I would share my experience with the forum on Method wheels with the simulated beadlock hardware. This is my experience but googling it, seems to be a rather common issue with the Jeep guys as well who use these wheels. Pictures below of the rust. Yes its small but its rust on a couple month old wheels. We spend big bucks on wheels in hopes they last. These likely wont see a year. On a plus side I couldn't be happier with how fast and helpful Discount Tire has been so kudos to them.
  2. I have a 2015 GMC Sierra SLT 5.3 with 10,500 miles. Within in the last month the engine has started to run rough miss firing, pinging, knocking etc.... Brought it in to the service center and they replaced the fuel pump, intake gaskets and changed the oil due to fuel smell. Pick it up, runs great for 200 miles and I start having the same issues. Bring it back to the service center and now they say there is a large quantity (8oz) of water in the oil that is causing the is miss fires, ticks, pings, clunks. Their "fix" if you want to call it that, was to just change the oil. Nothing else. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm also not fool under the under the hood. I understand condensation build up with hot and cold but 8 oz on water in 200 miles in the oil? I'm not buying it. The dealership is playing this off as "Normal." I know this is completely bogus. Any thoughts, suggestions other than complaining and telling the dealership how ridiculous their answer to the problem is. Oh and the kicker! I had to pay for the oil & filter change because of the water in it.
  3. Hello, I own an 08 GMC Sierra 2500HD Diesel Crew Cab Long box pick up, it's throwing a display message, but not giving me any codes, the message is service trailer brake system, it used to show that message and then I had it brought into the shop the second of July and they replaced the trailer break relay in the rear, had to change out some eye connectors at the fuse box. They also replaced the fuse. Worked great again from then to about a three weeks ago and this was including an 11 000km trip towing the trailer, it brought the message up again. The truck had been sitting and driven every once and a while, a bit of idling this winter as well, but no towing. so I replaced the fuse because it looked blown. After replaced it work fine again no more message thought maybe wet weather caused it. Now unfortunately now again yesterday I went to use it again and the message comes up, it was just recently used a few days ago and no message, today we have some dense fog as well as some rain. I think it only happens when it rains heavy or fog.. I am not entirely sure on that though. I replaced the fuse in the fuse box for the (ITBC) The one I changed out before to get it to work, and this time it did not work and nothing changed on the dash message still up. I can more than easily replace the Relay without any issues, but I don't want to do that if it is just going to create the exact same issue. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Also on a side note, whenever I start the truck it puts out grey smoke until it has warmed up passed about 79-85 degrees Celcius (174F-187F), which is normally after driving for about 5 mins 10 at most or letting it high idle until that temp, it also does smoke when driving until warmed up. it never puts out black or blue smoke. Its grey, just as it is on a cold day in a gas engine. today we've reached the highest temp lately about 8 degrees Celcius and it still smoked. It never did this in the summer or fall just after it got cold. So I am just wondering if this is normal or if something is causing this to happen when it shouldn't be. Could it be something as simple as it needing an oil change? Or also does it need a long drive at highway speed to deal with burn cleaning the DPF? I am a new owner to this pickup, and it is my first year with it so I am new to diesel's and don't know what to expect from them. Any help Is much appreciated!
  4. Share Your Mods!

    Hey Guys! Have not been able to find a site where you can submit your mods and have them post it without buying their products or going through some ridiculous process. I have created: https://thegaminggalago.wixsite.com/mycompletemodlist to get the ball rolling. Please share it amongst people on here and in your car clubs, it would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks, Connor
  5. My Yukon has developed a temperature control problem with the heating and cooling settings. First issue is when A/C is not needed. Since it's winter, I can start my drive, typically it's 30 or 40 degrees outside, wait for the engine temp to start to rise and ask for 74 or 72 degrees from the previous days drive. As soon as you hit or turn on the FAN control knob, A/C selection comes on.....but I don't need it. It's 30 degrees outside! Took it to my GMC dealer, and he can't find any "error codes", nor can he duplicate. So I provide him with 3 or 4 videos from my iPhone. It clearly shows the engine temp starting to rise and able to give "warmer" air than the outside air, and outside temp on the touchscreen at say 34 degrees. A/C selector clearly comes on when pushing the fan ON and either vents or floor selected for my air. Been to him twice. Then, it has progressed to really HOT air coming from the vents or floor, when set to 72 degrees. I set a little temp gauge in the vent and when asking for 72, its pumping out over 100 degrees. Sent him a video of that. Drove down to the dealer on a half hour drive with it set this way, and showed him...."yah, that's sure hot" is his reply. Now, on longer trips of 3 hours last weekend, we are either too hot or too cold. One point we had 69 dialed in on both passengers, feet were cold at 69 but dash vents with my thermometer was near 120. Settings never seem to track. You can set it for any temp and it starts out comfortable, but slowly starts to get hot, then you crank it back lower and then we are cold. He has had it again for two days and can't duplicate on their test drives. Says he can't do any "warranty work" without error codes being generated. Oh, and the other really strange thing.....three months ago, my rear window completely blew out. Exploded like it had been shot out! And we were driving down a road at 15 mph. Course, it has a REAR DEFROST button on my dash, where all this problem is occurring NOW. Wonder how I can help my dealer find a solution? Yukon has only 18k miles and purchased new from this dealer.
  6. Anyone else with a new 2014 Sierra having an issue with the frame rusting and paint/wax flaking off? I have 3000 kms and it looks horrible. I also own a 2011 Canyon service truck with 105kms and the frame looks like new. So irriating as my Sierra is a beautiful truck aside
  7. Hello, looking into an exhaust for my 2016 2500 GMC Sierra. Previously had the Corsa Sport on my 1500 and it had a nice sound, but I would like something a little louder with a nice growl. Any suggestions? Also, any other mod suggestions would be appreciated!
  8. WTB 20" factory GM wheels for my 2015 Silverado. Tires aren't really an issue, because I'm looking to go oversized anyway. I have a 2" RC level kit, so I'm thinking a 285/55-20. Either way, I'm looking for a damage free set of 20" OEM wheels (preferably with working sensors). If you need a set of wheels in trade, I have a 17" set from my LT. They are in perfect condition and tires have 19k miles on them. I'm in middle TN, so I'd prefer to stay local-ish to avoid shipping, but I'm willing to drive a reasonable distance for the right deal.
  9. I was wonder If anyone had any info on the 2006 GMC Sierra wrangler edition trucks and also where I could find the wrangler side door badges
  10. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com 2/2/2018 With all the attention the 2019 Silverado has gotten in the past few weeks, we'd understand if Sierra fans are feeling a little left out. Where is the 2019 Sierra and when will we know what it looks like? Good news, very soon! March 1st, to be exact. GMC has begun the process of inviting media to "be among the first to experience the global debut of the next-generation 2019 GMC Sierra". The 2019's Sierra's new badge design and the new Denali logo appear on the invitation sent out (see above). GM-Trucks.com was one of the media outlets that received the invite and will attend the event on March 1st. The event will take place in Detroit and most likely be broadcast live online. We'll have more details of the event as we get closer. Make sure to check back for our inevitable live-chat of the whole event. Sierra fans rejoice, we'll see the all new GMC full-size soon.
  11. Pics updated! Hey everyone, I just completed a center console swap on my 2015 Silverado 1500 CCSB and now have this jumper seat for sale. I would prefer to do something local, but open to shipping. The center console is in great condition with everything included (bolt covers, seat beat, and console divider). I'm asking for $300 (plus shipping).
  12. Ordered some ModifyStreet tow mirrors a few weeks ago and had some time this last weekend to install. Overall I will say I am very happy with the mirrors so far. I've had them on for about a week. Still getting used to the mirrors but couldn't be happier. I previously has DL8 mirrors on my truck. I did not install the RZY harness, I tapped into a circuit in the door for my clearance lights. The turn signal and reverse LEDs on both mirrors do not currently function. That's a lot of work and frankly, its just too cold outside for me to want dive into that. Compared to stock mirrors these tow mirrors stick out an extra 2" on each side so not a real deal breaker there. Here's a link to the mirrors on Amazon, shipping was incredibly fast: https://www.amazon.com/ModifyStreet-Clearance-Silverado-Avalanche-Suburban/dp/B01N3XP0J5 Enjoy!
  13. I will start by saying that this isn't a thread debating canned vs custom tunes. In general, I think most of us understand custom is likely best. If you think custom tuning is the only way to go, this isn't for you (stop reading now and visit one of the other glorious topics like Gamboa's mirror thread). If you are interested in a cheap way to delete AFM and have tire calibration in one packaged, this is for you. I bought this tuner because I needed tire calibration and AFM disable controls at a reasonable price. The canned tunes that came along with it were a nice to have but weren't needed for me. Not sure if its been posted before but in my own opinion I believe most of these non-customizable tuners are all the same. The EDGE EvoHT2 (~$375), Flashpaq F5 (~$290), and TruXP Xtune+ (~$260) are the same tuner just a different name and color casing which means a different price. TruXP is the housebrand at Autoanything similar to ProZ. I have bought multiple TruXP parts and can positively say that these parts are just rebranded and cheaper than the name brand counterpart i.e. the TruXP air intake is really a K&N intake but cheaper. I'd put money on it that the tuners all run the same canned tuned with the same results, I cannot confirm that though. My point being, don't be so quick to ignore those "not so name brand" projects. In the TruXP case they are just rebranded parts at reasonable prices. With a little research you can same some money. The TruXP tuner was $260 at Autoanything. To complete the same tasks W/O a tuner I would've paid $145 at my dealer for tire calibration and $189 for a Range AFM disable tool. Add in the fact that I also got 3 canned tunes for my truck at $260, at the end of the day it is not a bad deal at all. Here is a quick run through video of the TruXP tuner on my GMC Sierra. It is incredibly simple to use. Just for kicks, I tried the 87 performance canned tune on a run to Costco a few days ago and the truck felt aggressive (firmed up shifting) but for me that was a bit much for my day to day commute so I backed it down to running stock with my tire and AFM options only. There's also a 91 performance tune. Everything above is my opinion and if I can help someone make the decision on a tuner then this post was worth it. If not you may shun me...
  14. After driving my Silverado for a little over a year now, and having driven a few rental cars inbetween, i have realized that there is one very subtle feature that I love about my truck. With so many vehicles now using electronic cruise control, and not the old mechanical switch and buttons GM used to have, it is common for the owner to have to turn Cruise Control back on every time the engine turns off. I use my cruise control constantly, and i mean constantly (lowest it will let me set at is 24 MPH, if i could use it at 20, i would). BUT, every time i turn my truck off, and turn it back on, cruise remains on!!! I don't know if this is unique to chevy right now, but ive driven a lot of rentals recently that the cruise needs to be turned back on every time i get in it, and i find myself turning it on and off constantly because i dont remember if its on. So thank you, GM, for leaving my cruise control on and not turning it off when i didn't ask you to.
  15. Ok I just bought an 02 Yukon 4x4. It has push button 4x4, 4 low, 4 high, 2 high and auto 4x4. I pressed the 4 hi to try the 4x4 and the light just flashed then went back to 2 hi. I hit 4 lo and heard it engage then the lights went out on the switch. Now the switch does nothing and the front diff is engaged. The transfercase is in high but I think 2 hi not 4 hi. I took out the 4wd fuse in the cab and also the atc fuse under the hood. Disconnected the battery for almost an hour today. Hooked it back up and the front is still engaged. My switches still do nothing.
  16. Looking for pictures of 2015-2017 Chevrolet Silverado with stock 18” wheels and 37s-40s with 6-9” suspension lifts. I had a truck with stock 17” wheels and 37s with spacers and loved the look of it. Wanting to build a new truck with the same platform.
  17. By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin Copyright 2015 - GM-Trucks.com The colder weather of winter can be punishing on your pickup’s battery. If your truck doesn't start with the same enthusiasm this spring as it did last fall, your battery is to blame. After two months of temperatures regularly below zero-degrees Fahrenheit, the stock battery in our Sierra was in rough shape. Even leaving a cell-phone charger plugged in overnight was too much for our old battery to handle. Luckily, changing your battery is one of the easiest pieces of maintenance to perform on your Silverado or Sierra. You can buy a new battery at any auto parts store and most large box stores. Consult with a compatibility chart or sales associate to ensure you purchase a compatible battery. Most newer Silverado and Sierra take a "Group 78" style battery. Aside from the correct type, it’s important to note the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) of your stock battery and buy a new battery that is at least equivalent. If you live in a cold region or have hooked up accessories to your battery, getting a higher CCA-rated battery is a great idea. Never buy a battery that is smaller or has a CCA rating that is lower than stock. Tools needed 13mm socket (battery hold down) 10mm socket (battery cables) ½-in socket (body bracing) 6-in socket extension Safety Glasses Mechanic’s Gloves Applicable Vehicles 2007-2015+ Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500 Time required 10-15 minutes Estimated Cost $150-175 depending on battery, not including refundable core charge Skills Required Beginner Technical Ability Able to lift 50lbs over shoulder height Warnings and Precautions Never allow a tool to connect the two battery terminals together Step One - Prepare The first step in any project is to prepare your work space. Gather the required tools and safety equipment. Park your vehicle in a place where you have adequate light and you won't have to move it for the duration of the project. Some vehicles have security codes or radio settings that need to be noted before disconnecting vehicle power. Step Two - Unscrew the engine bay bracing The battery in the older 2007-2013 body styles and newer 2014+ body styles are surrounded by bracing. While the designs are different, all model years require a 1/2-inch socket to remove the bolts. Remove the bracing and set aside in a safe place. Step Three - Remove the battery hold down The battery is held in place by a single 13mm bolt and block. Simply unscrew the hold-down using a socket and the 6-inch extension, Set aside in a safe place. Step Four - Disconnect the old battery Now, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket. Be careful to remove the negative terminal first and never allow the positive and negative wires or terminals to touch. Step Five - Switch the old and new battery The battery weights around 40lbs, so make sure you are comfortable lifting this much weight to around shoulder height. Step Six - Reassemble in reverse order Simply reattach your battery, battery hold down, and engine bay bracing in the reverse order. Step Seven - Restore settings Replacing the battery will most likely reset your pickup’s clock, radio favorites and memory seat settings that you may have customized. Take a moment before you hit the road again to restore these settings in a safe place while parked.
  18. Zane Merva & John Goreham GM-Trucks.com 10/16/2015 The time has finally arrived. You are just weeks away from being able to buy General Motor’s 2.8L Duramax Diesel in the midsize Colorado and Canyon. Two GM-Trucks.com staffers recently had a chance to take a 2016 GMC Canyon with this engine for a spin and here’s what we thought. Zane: The 2.8L Duramax is an engine that will extend the capability of the Colorado and Canyon to within a stone's throw of the full-size Silverado and Sierra. From the moment you turn the key, there’s no mistaking this as a diesel engine. Noticeably louder than GM’s other gas engine offerings, owners will probably enjoy that their pickup sounds remarkably similar to the bigger 6.6L Duramax V8. In our short drive time we were impressed by the massive amounts of low end torque for a vehicle of this size. 369 lb-ft of torque at only 2,000 rpm goes a long way. However, with only 181-horsepower, the Canyon 4x4 crew cab we drove didn’t feel as quick as its 3.6L gas-powered counterpart. Point the nose of the GMC up a steep hill and the Duramax diesel’s benefits are immediately apparent. Nothing is going to stop this truck once it gets moving and you feel like the hand of God has your back. Acceleration is smooth and linear through the entire engine range. That’s the experience diesel truck buyers want and GM has given it to them. Bolder, louder and purposeful in nature. Oh and did we mention fuel economy? Prepare to be impressed. We saw over 30 mpg on our drive loop. GM executive Mark Reuss confirmed to us that the final EPA number should be very close to our results. That would place the Colorado and Canyon has the most fuel efficient trucks you could buy. No wonder GM is exploring options to increase the number of Colorado and Canyon it can build. John: What struck me first was the great look of the Canyon. Particularly from the front ¾ view. I had just left off-road testing in a 2016 Tacoma and in terms of looks, the Canyon wins hands-down. My tester was a $45,280 SLT Crew Cab with 4WD. Trucks are expensive now, but this one had it all. Premium Bose audio and Nav ($500), Spray in bedliner ($475) and Chrome assist steps ($725). I was impressed that the Canyon had Lane Departure Warning and Forward Collision Alert at no extra charge. That will cost you $500 on a Tacoma. The biggest single adder was the $3,730 Duramax engine. Although that buys a lot of gasoline, the Duramax has benefits beyond fuel economy to its fans. Hills surrounded the venue we were attending, and they were steep. Like Zane, I was immediately impressed by how strong the Canyon I drove felt. I too noted the fuel economy. Over the past 50 miles that it had been driven in rural NY the vehicle had averaged 22.2 MPG and its peak had been 34.5 MPG (according to the truck). Writers at this event were passing up track time in a Corvette to drive the Canyon on-road. It was one of the most popular vehicles at the event. The new Canyon and Colorado Duramax will not disappoint. GM is proud of this new truck, and as Zane’s interview with Mark Reuss proves, GM is looking hard for places to build more. The Canyon Duramax looks, drives, and acts like a winner.
  19. Anyone have issues with a coolant leak the dealer “can’t find”. I bought my l5p denali duramax about 6 months ago and have put 15k on it in those 6 months. Mostly used for pulling my 43’ fifthwheel. Anyway the issue. At 3k the low coolant light came on and I brought it to the dealer. I was told air had not been properly removed from the cooling system when assembled so they burped it and I was on my way. I was good till 11k miles. At 11k the light came on again and I brought it in. The radiator was replaced, brought it home and started it a couple days later and the coolant light came on. Called the dealer same story burping air out so I topped it off myself. 11k noticed coolant puddle under it and coolant drips on passenger frame rail by front bumper. Brought it in and dealer couldn’t find a leak so I took it home. Two days later the coolant light came on and multiple drips were on the frame. So at this point I have executive GM involved with trying to figure it out. A couple things at this point have me worked up. Not one time was I offered a loaner car not once. After the radiator was replaced they put The plastic skid plate one under the radiator and broke it and left it on. So now I want a loaner when I drop it off. I wait almost a month before they give in and give me one and bring the truck back in. At this point the over flow is almost empty so it’s not leaking very fast. The truck now has 15k on it. I bring it it in and get a loaner car for the first time with 15k on it and the 4th visit in 6 months. Dealer still can not find a leak. I asked them to climb under they truck and look at the frame rail for coolant. He calls back and says it’s dry. So I send my wife to pick the truck up. She drives 15 miles home from the dealer and that’s it. When I got home from work I checked under the truck and it’s dripping coolant. So a couple of things so far, executive GM has done not one thing to help me out. I have done everything myself. They don’t return calls and do not return emails. The last time I brought my truck in the dealer refused to give me any paperwork showing that they actually looked at it they just gave me paperwork from my previous visit. He service advisor keeps telling me it’s burping out air and it’s residual coolant from the radiator replacement 4K miles ago and 2 months ago. I don’t know what to do. I have lost all respect for GM and their product.
  20. 2017 sierra A/T crew cab I have the most annoying tick noise over bumps, coming from the b pillar behind my left ear and it is driving me brick house, I've pulled at the trim off put my hands on everything made sure everything is tight, stuff rags in between contact points, I've run out of ideas, anyone have an guidance for me, I'm a ex gm technician of 5 years , I know what I'm doing but of course my own truck baffles me..per usual any new bulletins or tsbs?
  21. I've been wandering these forums for a little bit now - I was initially looking hard at a 16+ chevy. Then realized it wasn't practical for me to buy another newer truck. So I then started looking at 07-13 trucks.... Then realized I don't want to deal with the 5.3 AFM issues.... So now I'm very interested in even older ones, from 03-06. I have been looking for about a month and have now found a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT that is 2 hours away. Heres the info: - 2006 GMC Sierra SLT 1500 4x4 5.3 - 127k miles - crew cab - leather - heated & memory seats - electronic everything - sunroof - matching cap - tinted windows - Grey color (MY FAVORITE) - 2.5" lift - GMT900 wheels - few other add ons, only a few repairs to the front end... mostly untouched - new rear brake lines The bad: - rusted out driver side rocker, but the passenger side is almost flawless (so he says - the pictures look like its good) - dent/scrape on the passenger side from the rear door to the beginning of the bed. I got an estimate to fix all of the body issues from someone who I personally know who does professional body work - ~$2,200 to repair. I will post pictures later when I'm able.... But for now I wanted to get a feel for what everyone who is experienced with these trucks thinks about it. I have him down to $8.000 cash. Do you think that is a good deal? It seems that these crew cabs are GOLD and hold their value like an old jeep. I love the truck so far. I don't mind the rust because it is all contained on the bottom rocker - which can all be replaced as one when I see fit. Does this sound like a good deal? Obviously I'll probably have to have work done on the front end in the near future. I am planning to go look at it 10/7/17.... exactly 1 week away. Thanks for your input.
  22. Recently purchased a 2004 GMC 2500hd Diesel. Open to learn about best maintenance practices etc
  23. So Here is Ontario we got our first snowfall this year, so I went to go move my 08 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab Long box pickup and wouldn't go as I didn't have any weight in the back... So I switched it to 4 and went to go but nothing, The 4WD switch indicator light flashed for about 30 seconds and then finally switched (Or supposably) switched to 4WD HI and the 4WD HI light was aluminated but the 4WD wasn't working so I switched from 4HI back to 2HI and it switched normally on the switch no waiting 30 seconds... and tried switching it back again and then the service 4WD message on the dash came up. i also tried putting it in Neutral and tried 4L and 4HI but nothing. Back in the summer I was in a murder situation pulling a heavy trailer uphill so I switched to 4 all good and drove out, a few mins later went to switch back flipped it and immediately on the display came up "Service 4WD System" so I just kept driving (as per I was in a time crunch) and about 5 mins later after a few jerks of emptying a dump trailer and restarting the truck it finally switched to 2HI. After that i never thought about it again until now. I also have a loud/ quite like humming or growling noise like what winter tires would make when driving on pavement in 2HI at anything above 60 KM/h. I have bf Goodrich all terrain Tires on my truck, so I assumed it was just that. but now a little skeptical on if it is the tires or something like the transfer case. I am a good do it your self-mechanic, I don't know too much but I learn as I go, so any help is much appreciated.

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