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Found 6 results

  1. Hey all ! Just signed up, but I'm coming over from gmc4x4.com. That forum has pretty much died out, and I need some pretty urgent help. Rear heat ! Fan doesn't spin. Doesn't get voltage at the fan. I have done the following, but I am willing to double check things too: That red wire under the dash. Complete, charged and seems to be ok. I really don't understand this fix, so I'd be willing to talk about it some more. Replaced rear resistor with the new updated one. Millivolts on those wires - nothing else. Fuses checked and appear to be ok. I have the auto-thermostat model with rear and fore temperature settings and "Auto" fan speeds. When I move the front HVAC control, it will disable the rear (Unless it's in AUX and the rear comes to life) The vent flapper doesn't appear to move either. It's like the entire rear unit has just gone to sleep. Voltage applied directly to the motor will spin it. Motor and windings appear ok and test out ok. Does anyone have any ideas ?
  2. Hey all, I recently had my blower stop working on 1, then on all speeds. Figured it was the resistor pack since I had the same issue a couple of years ago so i pulled it out to check, and found one of the pins in the resistor pack had completely melted both the male and female ends. Following a forum post from somewhere I ordered a full blower motor kit (motor/resistor pack/ new connector and partial harness) and installed it today. The blower now works like it should, except when set to 5 it shuts off. It does click audibly when the dial is set to 5, which i remember reading is proper operation, but the motor does not move. Just wondering where I should start looking. I'm guessing either one of the connections I made on the new harness isn't good enough (can't make enough sense of the wiring diagrams to see which is 5), or rockauto gave me a bad resistor.
  3. Never been here before but looking to convert her into a 4x4 car camping rig
  4. 2001 gmc sierra slt -aftermarket kenwood stereo I've had this pickup for about a couple months now, Ice had a problem start where my speedometer was off By 5 mph. It wasn't a big deal to me. I ignored it. After about a few days of it being off by 5mph, it had risen up to be 10 mph off, and the next day after that if was 20 mph off and still is to this day. Some days it will be off by 10 or even by 5. The aftermarket stereo has no fm/am radio signal,so I took the radio out and unplugged it to see if I needed an radio atenna adapter and I noticed while the stereo was disconnected from the harness the speedometer wasn't off and dropped back to 0 while parked. I went for a drive and the speedometer was fine. When I plug that stereo in it jumps back up to 20 again. All the wiring from the factory radio harness to the aftermarket stereo looks okay the colors match. I'm puzzled on why it does this. Also the speedometer kinda wiggles a bit when turning power on to the pickup like as if a surge is happening. Any help or advice of what to do would be great!
  5. I have a 2001 silverado extended cab v6 that is a base model. It came with no power locks or windows. I am trying to convert them. I already have panels,switches and the harness out of a 2002 z71. My problem is I found out my fuse box won't support this. I can provide pictures if necessary. I'm looking for advice on if I can just get another fuse box out of a truck that has the options and do I need to get a new underdash harness as well? Also if anyone has done this swap before any other insight would be greatly appreciated Its a project truck and has sentimental value so I'm not just going to " go sell it and buy a truck with all the options"
  6. Hello, I have a 2005 Silverado. It has about 157k miles on a 5.3L. I drive about 20 minutes to and from work, and lately my dash will start having issues while driving. It doesn't happen all of the time, and usually only lasts until I hit the gas pretty good. The radio usually loses power and intermittently goes on and off. The battery gauge will drop and the low battery light will illuminate. The door lock security light illuminated. Also, a chime will alarm during the cycle in which it happens while driving. This morning at a stop sign, I shut it off and restarted it. The gauges all acted like it was still off for a minute then jumped to proper location. Then I shifted into Drive, but the IP showed it still in Park. I drove about 1/4 mile before the doors locked and the panel first displayed as it should. It still had a failure cycle; though, until I got to work and shut it off. The automatic door locks did not unlock after I shut it off. Is this caused by a faulty battery ground for alternator issue?
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