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Found 13 results

  1. I know a lot of people are running black rims on white trucks and blacked out black trucks and color matching etc. I decided to go old school chrome (lux) look. I made this happen on the front end by swapping out my black front bumper skid shield with the denali chrome one. I also as some of you may know, whited out my badges with reflective vinyle (see profile pic) and decided on chrome rims, exception, these rims are powder coated and flashed for the exact same look as chrome except they clean up just like paint. soap and water and wax. So this may not be for all but it takes me back a bit while still be modern. By the way, to remove this and replace. off comes the under grill molding, the radiator shroud, the front grill, the front bumper, remove both bumper backing plates remove and replace skid plate. i followed these instructions... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-do4lHsbydM
  2. Is it possible to hook our leds up to a 12v switch to allow them to be at full brightness to see the potential at night? Makes me curious since the impala driver in the photo attached did this so easily.
  3. I just wanted to share my light mods I did over the weekend. I used many of your for advice and looking at old threads, so thought I would share the results...for reference, I am one of those guys that doesn't have a ton of tools, so when I get knee deep in a project, I usually don't have all the tools, which makes the jobs a little frustrating (I know what I want to do, but can't because of the resources I have) hope that makes sense. having said that, these two projects went pretty well...and an amateur (like me) could do them. First Camper lights: i tapped into the power wire for my dome light, I got the string lights with remote and color changing from Amazon (around $20). I then glued the lights to a velcro hooks strip and let dry...once they were dry, I hung them around the top. *note, that the glue didn't stick for crap, so I ended up having to use little strips of velcro to hold the lights up from sagging. pics are of the remote and relay box, I put velcro on both so they wont move around when driving. lights wrapped around camper shell (note that the pics look purple, but they are on 'white' setting)... and the left over light, I kept wrapping around to the back near the hinge... LIGHT BAR I also got this light bar, wiring harness and switch with wireless remote as a package deal on amazon (under $40). i also got the split wire conduit from lowes to help protect the wires...I believe that it is well worth it and helps maintain the factory look without having a bunch of wires all over your engine compartment. first pic is where i zip tied the wire and fed it down to the light bar second pic is where i mounted the relay switch...i just used the bottom side of the plastic plug next pic is just showing how indiscreet the wiring is, how I zip tied it to the other wiring harness more wiring (it had PLENTY of wire to I had to loop it around a bit this is a pic of the remote sensor box and the lead to the hard wired switch and finally the switch...this is where i am 'meh' about it...I wasn't originally going to do the hard switch, but thought after the fact...it isnt the cleanest, nor the best...but it is the easiest and gets the job done... I hope these pics are as helpful to someone as this forum has been to me...I will be happy to post links of the stuff I bought if anyone was interested and answer any questions...again, I'm not saying my way is the best way, but I am happy with the way it turned out...but I didn't do anything crazy...enjoy!
  4. SilveradoSaver's Build

    Hey everyone, Thought I’d start a build thread for my 2015 Silverado 1500 LT Crew Cab Standard Box (5.3 L) 4x4. Been my dream vehicle since I was a kid and finally owning one is a great feeling! I've quickly learned that these mods can get out of control though, but I’m sure you all know that! Here are the following modifications I have done on my truck so far: · 2" Zone leveling kit · Upgraded from 18" to 20" wheels (Matte black Rockstar 2 XD 811) · Goodyear Duratrac 275/60R20 tires · BakFlip G2 tonneau cover · Smittybilt Receiver Hitch D-Ring · Rigid Industries SR-M2 fog lights (x 4) · Rigid Industries D-Series lights behind the grill (x 4) · Enthuze LED headlights (high and low beams) · Swapped out license plate lights, cargo lights, and third-brake lights with Philips LED bulbs · AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Pro 5R cold air intake system · Borla S-type cat-back exhaust (side exit) · Added GM 3" black powder coated nerf bars (GM part #23194635) · Gatorback oversized custom fit mud flaps · De-badged all wording from doors and tailgate, including “4x4” decals · Plastidipped front and rear bowties matte black · Hood and tail gate vinyl wrapped with matte black rally stripes with pin-stripe outline · Installed driver side assist handle · Weathertech precise fit floor mats (front and back) · Blackvue 1080P DR650GW-1CH dash camera Here is my truck on day 1 when I picked it up; fully stock: And let the modifications begin…
  5. (Pictures are not uploading properly, I will fix it when I can and put them in the appropriate places in the post) I want to start off by saying, pictures are limited, as the only bolts you need to remove (10 total) are fairly obvious and in your face, the only two that are 'difficult' to find I will explain where they are. I special ordered my truck how I wanted it with every option I needed, but I left off the chrome package because I don't like chrome. But then my dad bought a black LT RCSB and I loved the chrome bumper so I decided I had to have one while I look for all blue color matched (Z71) front end parts. The first part that needs to come off is the plastic trim under the hood, that is on top of the radiator/grille. There are 10 push-pins that hold it on. I used the second tool in the picture, lift the first stage of the clip, once its up about 3/4 inch, get under the base and pull it completely out. Next, the grille is held on with 4 10mm bolts, these bolts don't do much honestly. Pulling the grille itself out was the most challenging part of the whole job. There are clips in front of each bolt that will slide back in their slots if you breath too hard. On the middle/driver's side clip, there is a plastic locator pin that appears to be nearly impossible to leave intact and remove the grille, so I cut it off flush - there are enough pressure clips to keep everything aligned. I started at the passenger side and removed the top clip, then pulled the grille out at the middle cross piece. Don't be afraid of pulling too hard, the pressure clips release with some force. Once the grille pull out approximately 1", you can lift the grille up and out. This leaves the bumper. There are a total of 6 bolts that attach the bumper to the truck, 4 accessible now that the grille is removed, the other 2 are harder to get too, one on each side. If you lay down in front of each tire and look up, you will see the brace that secure the bumper. Remove the one 15mm bolt that on each side (leave side with 2 bolts on the frame). Now you can remove the four 18 mm bolts that are in front of the radiator. The bumper should rest on its mounts once all bolts are removed without a risk of falling, but be careful regardless. That will leave you with something that looks like this, kind of intimidating at first. I had to transfer all the appropriate brackets from my back bumper to my chrome one, a little bit of effort but if you have gotten this far you won't have an issue. Then everything goes back together exactly the opposite as it came apart. ​
  6. Cannibalize my existing Samsung Wireless Charger and installed wireless charging ability to my 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 LS. Minimal modifications (3 non-visible drilled wholes). Parts required are: Phillips screw driver, Drill and Drill bit. Source Charger might requiring some other parts. My job required micro Phillips screw driver, soldering iron, solder, sander, speaker wire (3") Electrical tape, and pliers. Enjoy and pass along any suggestions.
  7. Has anyone taken apart a 14-15 Chevy headlight before? Im curious about the black plastic piece that divides the chrome from the high beam housing and low beam housing. Has anyone attempted to remove this piece? And successfully reapplied it with breaking anything? My goal is to fabricate a piece integrated with a LED light strip similar to the 16 headlight look. Thanks in advance
  8. This if for you guys that have oversized tires rubbing your fenders and want a little more than a zip tie, but less than norcal mod. I bought my 2014 silverado z71 ccsb used with a leveling kit and 18x9 -6 offset wheels. I just put on a set of cooper stt pro's in 275/70r18 and there was a slight rub in reverse at full lock. This NorTex mod aleviated that problem. I've got nothing against the guys that zip tie the lining back. My concern with it is that the slits in the lining may want to tear more than a hole would and the zip tie itself may saw through the lining over time. Here you go..... Find the closest point between the fender liner and the body mount bracket and clamp them together. Drill one 3/16 hole through fender liner and metal. Use a 3/16 x 1/4 grip rivet and a #6 washer. Put the washer on the rivet before inserting it into the drilled hole, then rivet it on. That should be enough to add about 3/4 inch or so of clearance. The plastic piece at the bottom and rear of the front fender was being rubbed as well. It was being hit on the top of the most inside corner. I didn't want the tire to rip it off and since it shouldn't be removed, because of how it's attached, I did some trimming. I cut a triangular piece off of the top, most inside corner. The cut line was about 1.5-2" long making a square triangle cut off. Here's the kicker. Bevel the cut edge with a razor blade. That way if there is anymore contact the tire won't have a square angle to catch onto and will have a better chance to slide over the plastic trim piece. The tools I used were; -Power drill with 1/8(pilot hole) & 3/16 bits -Vise grips -Flash light -flat razor blade -Hack saw blade (held by vise grips to get in flush on the plastic piece) -Rivet gun, rivets and washers There you have it. This took me about 30 minutes and I would caution you to watch for falling debris as you're under the fender. I hope this helps.
  9. Good afternoon, We are excited to announce that our 2014-2015 GM truck and SUV intake system is officially scheduled to be release/ for sale in early November! The new intake will have all the great benefits and features/construction as our previous GM truck and SUV intake system and will fit the following vehicles: 2014-2015 * Chevy Silverado 1500 * GMC Sierra 1500 * GMC Yukon/Yukon XL 2015 * Chevy Tahoe/Suburban 1500 You can also see our facebook post!
  10. Hey so I have around 2000$ to play around with and I have a 2014 GMC sierra 4 wheel drive with the only thing put on it is a Rough Country 2 inch level and nitto trail grapplers. I have some idea's in what I want to do but I was wondering if any of you guys have any ideas for me. I'm looking for accessories outside of the truck not necessarily performance mods. I have a toolbox, 5% tint, and rhino lining in the bed. I'm looking for a more showy or buffer look on the truck. My idea is to get everything from Rough Country, but I'm open to other companies. What I have in mind is a 50 inch light bar w/ bracket, a chrome bull bar w/ 20 inch light bar, and some nfab running boards with the 3rd step for toolbox access (I have the 6'6 bed and I've seen them and they look great). If y'all have any ideas for me that'd be great! or if you think any of these clash. Thanks
  11. So, a couple months back I installed the Magnaflow cat-back, single in/dual out, exhaust system on my 2015 2500HD 6.0L Sierra (see some info/pics on the install and outcome below). http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/171270-2015-60-muffler/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1673626 Truly I am quite happy with it. Got a great deal online, sounds great, was able to install it myself with no major issues, got the dual tips perfectly aligned, etc... Fast forward about 2,000 miles. Still love it, however after moving it in my driveway I recently noticed a 3rd wet spot underneath my truck about the same size/shape/color as what had resulted in water dripping from the exhaust tips. So, I got underneath and noticed that some water was dripping from both outlet ports from the muffler. Now, the drips on each side are coming from where you clamp the rear pipes to the muffler outlets. Worth mentioning: periodically since installing, I have gotten back under the truck and checked every nut and bolt for loosening and re-tightened where necessary. There was some very slightly that tightened more after about 50-100 miles but absolutely none since then. Also worth mentioning: the outlet ports on the rear of the muffler are basically exhaust pipe diameter and stick out roughly 1", which is what you connect the exhaust pipe to, and clamp down on. The 1" that sticks out obviously is not a perfect tube; the welding imperfections stick out 1/4"-1/2". I did not want to clamp the exhaust pipe down to only half, or the tip, of the outlet port, so it is partially clamped down over welded material. I believe this is obviously why there is some water leaking, but I saw no way to avoid this. I found the point where I thought the pipe was clamped on just enough to be as solid as possible, which meant MAYBE a few mm's of weld bumps, and tightened the hell out of it. My question: how big of a problem is this small water leak, does it largely effect backpressure, performance, etc.? I am not very knowledgeable on exhaust systems as my last one was done at a local shop, but the only solution I can see is taking it to a shop and having them weld those pieces together to eliminate this issue. At that point, might they as well weld each connection together? Anyone have any other suggestions? Any and all feedback or insight is appreciated. I am pretty sure I know what a shop will tell me to do, but hoping to get the real scoop here first! Thanks!!!!
  12. I am thinking about taking my front GMC and tailgate GMC logos off and Painting them to match the truck....truck is a 2013 Sierra in Heritage Blue Metallic, problem is blue logos on the front reminds me of a ford, is it a good idea to try this or leave it stock?
  13. I am just curious if anyone has modded their stock air box. Thinking about installing a round K&N filter and playing around the box and make some type of ram air tube to direct cold air from the front of the truck to the air box. I have a 2001 GMC Sierra with the 5.3. Post pics of your mod if ya got em. Just can't justify $200 on a system that does nothing but suck in hot air from the engine compartment!

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