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Transfer Case Encoder Sensor


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#1 dcjones13

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 02:27 PM

im looking for directions on how to replace the transfer case encoder sensor. i have a 2006 silverado vortec max 1500. thanx...

#2 BigSilver

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 01:03 AM

im looking for directions on how to replace the transfer case encoder sensor. i have a 2006 silverado vortec max 1500. thanx...


I replaced my transfer case encoder motor (EM) on a Chevy 2003 Suburban. It was easy, though daunting for a first-timer.

On my Burb, the front drive shaft had to be removed fist. Marked the drive shaft connection points on axel and T-Case for referance, to facilitate reinstallation. Removed all fasteners of the drive shaft from both ends and collapsed it while rotating on axis, to facilitate removal.

Disconnected wire harness leading to EM. Removed the bolts holding it in place.

To install the replacement EM: Had to determine if transfer case cam was in 2wd. To do this I assumed the replacement EM's cam-socket was set in 2wd position, then compared the transfer case cam position. My cam was off in 4WD, so I raised the Burb's wheels off the ground, started up the engine, then using a vise-grip® plier, positioned the T-case's cam to what appeared neutral (2wd) position.

...Then turned off the engine. Removed the vise grip, without disturbing the cam's position. The cam could not be adjusted without the engine running.

Now I installed the replacement EM, bolted it in place, reconnected the wire harness. With all wheels still raised off the ground, I started the engine and tested 4wd button functionality; then tested the gear selector, while keeping a foot on the brakes. All worked out A1.

I shut down the engine and then reinstalled the front drive shaft, knowing that the encoder was working.

CAUTION, DISCLAIMER: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

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#3 Nick G

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 08:47 AM

[/quote]


To install the replacement EM: Had to determine if transfer case cam was in 2wd. To do this I assumed the replacement EM's cam-socket was set in 2wd position, then compared the transfer case cam position. My cam was off in 4WD, so I raised the Burb's wheels off the ground, started up the engine, then using a vise-grip® plier, positioned the T-case's cam to what appeared neutral (2wd) position.

...Then turned off the engine. Removed the vise grip, without disturbing the cam's position. The cam could not be adjusted without the engine running.

[/quote]


I am doing this now. the only thing is the truck is in 4-low. I removed the transfer case motor and didn't change anything and now they won't line up.

Just for clarification, with the truck running, should the truck be in neutral when adjusting the transfer case with the vise-grips?

#4 Nick G

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 12:38 PM

ok, i have the transfer case in neutral, but the encoder motor still does not lineup correctly so i can't put it on. (taken off the vehicle when in 4-lo)

anyone know of the best way to correct this issue?

#5 Nick G

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 05:19 PM

ok, i have the transfer case in neutral, but the encoder motor still does not lineup correctly so i can't put it on. (taken off the vehicle when in 4-lo)

anyone know of the best way to correct this issue?




Well the motor is on but it won't switch out of 4-low, no lights on the push button and the "service 4wd" is still showing up.

Anyone have any ideas at all?

#6 BigSilver

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 07:51 AM

I kept mine in Park while engine was running, then aligned the cam splines to the relative position of the encoder.

If your EM is assumed to be set in 2wd, then adjust the cam on the Transfer Case to match.

Maybe your new EM is faulty? Hypothetically if one were to only plug in the EM to the wire harness (but not attach to TC) and attempt
operating the 2wd/4wd dash buttons, the EM should respond (its only a glorified servo).

The info from transmissiondigest may interest you, "Breaking The Code On Encoders".

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Edited by BigSilver, 05 October 2010 - 07:52 AM.


#7 Nick G

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Posted 16 October 2010 - 08:58 AM

Well, it turns out you shouldn't connect the motor before it's completely attached.

That was my only issue.

I tested a working one on my broken truck and ended up making an investment in TWO motors ... oh brother.

All fixed and working GREAT! Thanks for your help.

#8 BigSilver

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 07:53 AM

Well, it turns out you shouldn't connect the motor before it's completely attached.

That was my only issue.

I tested a working one on my broken truck and ended up making an investment in TWO motors ... oh brother.

All fixed and working GREAT! Thanks for your help.


I hope you saved the first EM unit? One could probably reset it.




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