Jump to content



Photo
- - - - -

Stainless Steel Exhaust


  • Please log in to reply
77 replies to this topic

#31 Nytemare

Nytemare

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 4,417 posts
  • Location:Victoria BC
  • Gender:Male

Posted 25 November 2009 - 01:26 AM

usually...25-50 bucks a weld...10-15 bones per foot of pipe, 10 bucks a bend and 90 bucks an hour for labor.


Your working with stainless now bro...not regular exhaust pipe.

Some shops install for flat rate too...some just charge higher labor to cover the cost..I'm saying 2000 bones to be conservative.
All said and done...I would say you will get away with your parts and all for 2000, but budget your self 2000 for an install by a good shop. It is worth the money man. Difference in having it done by someone like Midas and having it done by someone who does really good work shows.

The welds will be cleaner and tighter, It will probably be Tig welded at a good shop, they will use a stick or a wire feed at Midas.
The bends will be all done by hand at a good shop...midas will use combinations of 90* and 45* elbow pieces to get the bends done...

See where I'm going man...

Anyway...I'm heading to bed...its 230 here...LOL

If you think your getting ripped or something drop me a pm or an e-mail...I'll let you know what I think of the situation...if its normal or not.

Cheers man
Good Luck with finding a good shop man
Aiden
Posted Image

so you expected something that weights 5000 pounds and has aerodynamics of a piano to get what?


2003 Silverado XCSB, 4.8L, Flowmaster super44 SI/DO, G80 3.42, MSD Wires, K&N drop-in filter, Yellow Top Battery, Royal Purple in entire Drivetrain, W4M tune....My DD..............................SOLD
2010 Silverado XCSB 5.3L Z71 Summit White, Diablo Trinity tuned....more to come soon.
2010 Cobalt 2.2L LT 2Dr. Victory Red....gas saver/wife's Car.......SOLD
2011 Cruze 1.4L Turbo 1LT Crystal Red ...Again, Wifes car and gas saver
1978 LJ80, 16V 1600cc on 31's, Spring over lift, awaiting Full Frame off build...The Toy

#32 nubuilder

nubuilder

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 332 posts
  • Location:La Crosse, WI
  • Gender:Male

Posted 25 November 2009 - 02:17 PM

I called a shop today.

The guy said that I should just use aluminized steel for the intermediate and tail pipes.
He says that I can redo it 3 times before I meet the cost of stainless.
He also said that putting the tips out the sides at a 45 would cause the tips (even though stainless) to pit.

I guess I'll just buy the intermediate pipe at AutoZone for $75 and have him bend up the 2 tail pipes.
He said that if I install the down pipe/cat combo it would be $250 to install, weld, and bend.

The only draw back to this setup will be that there will be no X or H pipe.
It will be just like it is now.

How will this affect performance, gas mileage, and sound?
Posted Image

#33 Nytemare

Nytemare

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 4,417 posts
  • Location:Victoria BC
  • Gender:Male

Posted 25 November 2009 - 09:09 PM

Sounds like you need to talk to another shop IMO

It sounds to me that this guy doesn't want to get off his ass and fab you up a proper exhaust. Stainless is expensive...we all know that...but who's he to tell you what you want on your truck.

As for bending the cats...they're direct fit...there is no bending, welding or anything to be done....they just bolt on to your exhaust maniflods...just like stock ones.

You need an X or an H in there to equalize the two sides man...it will rob you of any gains your exhaust will give you if you don't have one of them in there. I have driven the same car with and without...and it is amazing the difference it makes.

Go find another shop....possibly one that sells Magnaflow stuff. Aluminized pipe looks like crap after about 3 months, and the whole reason you are putting on a stainless exhaust is for it to look good and not have to replace it.

As for the tips at 45*...yeah you'll get rock chips and stuff in them...but thy will still look good. and if you put some nice low profile mud flaps on your rear fenders, you will minimize the damage.

Again...It sounds like this guy just couldn't be bothered to do a good job. Stainless is harder to work with, and weld...that's probably the reason he doesn't want you to use it. Also you cant weld aluminized pipe to stainless pipe...they are dissimilar metals, so you will have to use unsightly muffler clamps on it, including on your tail tips.


Hunt out the hot rod guys man...they know all the top notch shops.
Posted Image

so you expected something that weights 5000 pounds and has aerodynamics of a piano to get what?


2003 Silverado XCSB, 4.8L, Flowmaster super44 SI/DO, G80 3.42, MSD Wires, K&N drop-in filter, Yellow Top Battery, Royal Purple in entire Drivetrain, W4M tune....My DD..............................SOLD
2010 Silverado XCSB 5.3L Z71 Summit White, Diablo Trinity tuned....more to come soon.
2010 Cobalt 2.2L LT 2Dr. Victory Red....gas saver/wife's Car.......SOLD
2011 Cruze 1.4L Turbo 1LT Crystal Red ...Again, Wifes car and gas saver
1978 LJ80, 16V 1600cc on 31's, Spring over lift, awaiting Full Frame off build...The Toy

#34 nubuilder

nubuilder

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 332 posts
  • Location:La Crosse, WI
  • Gender:Male

Posted 25 November 2009 - 11:16 PM

No, he said that he could do stainless, but I have to bring it and he has to be able to bend it.
Does that mean he's worried about the gauge of it?
What gauge should I look for?
I didn't mean the cats had to be bent. I meant the tailpipes (and intermediate pipes if I don't buy some).

I can buy stainless pre-bent tailpipes from MangaFlow that go straight out the back for $50 each.
Could these be bent on the ends to make them go at a 45 degree? (keep in mind that my tips are like 18 inches long so the pipe could be cut shorter if need be)

Any places to look for stainless pipe/tubing? (I only need enough for the 2 intermediate pipes, so maybe like 8 feet)
Posted Image

#35 Nytemare

Nytemare

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 4,417 posts
  • Location:Victoria BC
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 November 2009 - 01:04 AM

You need stainless exhaust tubing...you don't need to worry about gauge. But for reference its usually 16 or 18 ga wall thickness.
If he doesn't stock it...he doesn't work on a lot of higher end exhaust systems...I would worry about the kind of fit and finish of a guy like that.


If you can get pre-bents for tails they should have enough material to bend on a 45* angle..I don't see why not.

If you need intermidate pipes...try looking at patriot or borla...they have 16 or 18ga sold in 5' lengths.
If you have a steel shop in your town, they will be the cheapest.

Does your exhaust just run down one side on this truck...or both...this will determine what you need for an x-pipe too...sorry I forgot to mention this one.

Posted Image That's for if the exhaust runs down both sides.
Posted Image This one is for if it runs down one side, its for tighter fitting areas, as it doesn't need the 45* bends in it to connect up.
Posted Image

so you expected something that weights 5000 pounds and has aerodynamics of a piano to get what?


2003 Silverado XCSB, 4.8L, Flowmaster super44 SI/DO, G80 3.42, MSD Wires, K&N drop-in filter, Yellow Top Battery, Royal Purple in entire Drivetrain, W4M tune....My DD..............................SOLD
2010 Silverado XCSB 5.3L Z71 Summit White, Diablo Trinity tuned....more to come soon.
2010 Cobalt 2.2L LT 2Dr. Victory Red....gas saver/wife's Car.......SOLD
2011 Cruze 1.4L Turbo 1LT Crystal Red ...Again, Wifes car and gas saver
1978 LJ80, 16V 1600cc on 31's, Spring over lift, awaiting Full Frame off build...The Toy

#36 nubuilder

nubuilder

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 332 posts
  • Location:La Crosse, WI
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 November 2009 - 01:17 AM

My exhaust runs down one side (passenger; stock location).

He doesn't stock it because not many people want to spend the extra money.

I found 2.5" Outside Diameter (OD) 16ga in 5ft for $48 and 6ft for $58 online. CLICK HERE TO VIEW SITE (I still need to measure to see what I need)
I'm pretty sure this doesn't include shipping.

Does it have to be specifically for exhaust?

The only problem with having the intermediate pipe custom made is that I don't know if the guy can make a flange that mimics the one on the cats.
If I end up having a shop make the intermediate pipe, I will have them put the X pipe in (shown in your second pic).

I will have to find a steel shop in town.
Posted Image

#37 Nytemare

Nytemare

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 4,417 posts
  • Location:Victoria BC
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 November 2009 - 09:58 AM

My exhaust runs down one side (passenger; stock location).

He doesn't stock it because not many people want to spend the extra money.

I found 2.5" Outside Diameter (OD) 16ga in 5ft for $48 and 6ft for $58 online. CLICK HERE TO VIEW SITE (I still need to measure to see what I need)
I'm pretty sure this doesn't include shipping.

Does it have to be specifically for exhaust?

The only problem with having the intermediate pipe custom made is that I don't know if the guy can make a flange that mimics the one on the cats.
If I end up having a shop make the intermediate pipe, I will have them put the X pipe in (shown in your second pic).

I will have to find a steel shop in town.

yeah, you can just chop the flange off that's fine. He'll than just weld the pipes to the ends of the cat instead of bolting on the flange.
That tubing should be the right stuff...its T304 stainless same as Magnaflow uses.
Posted Image

so you expected something that weights 5000 pounds and has aerodynamics of a piano to get what?


2003 Silverado XCSB, 4.8L, Flowmaster super44 SI/DO, G80 3.42, MSD Wires, K&N drop-in filter, Yellow Top Battery, Royal Purple in entire Drivetrain, W4M tune....My DD..............................SOLD
2010 Silverado XCSB 5.3L Z71 Summit White, Diablo Trinity tuned....more to come soon.
2010 Cobalt 2.2L LT 2Dr. Victory Red....gas saver/wife's Car.......SOLD
2011 Cruze 1.4L Turbo 1LT Crystal Red ...Again, Wifes car and gas saver
1978 LJ80, 16V 1600cc on 31's, Spring over lift, awaiting Full Frame off build...The Toy

#38 nubuilder

nubuilder

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 332 posts
  • Location:La Crosse, WI
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 November 2009 - 10:42 AM

Sounds like I need to find some 16ga 304 stainless locally now.

Did you think that was an OK price?
Posted Image

#39 nubuilder

nubuilder

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 332 posts
  • Location:La Crosse, WI
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 November 2009 - 10:50 AM

Came up with more questions:

Does a shop use a special welding rod or material to weld stainless?

Can the shop drill holes and weld on nuts for the 02 sensors?

Anyone know how far back from the cats the O2 sensors are supposed to be?

What should I use for hangers?
Know of any that clamp onto the pipe so I don't have to weld to it?
Or should I just buy stainless hangers (the factory "stick" style)?

Edited by nubuilder, 26 November 2009 - 09:52 PM.

Posted Image

#40 Nytemare

Nytemare

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 4,417 posts
  • Location:Victoria BC
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 November 2009 - 10:23 PM

yeah...the price wasn't bad
Yes they use a stainless rod to weld stainless...or proper wire in a mig welder
Any shop should be able to weld in bungs for your O2 sensors...but since they are direct fit they should be in there

Most shops carry hangers that they weld onto the exhaust pipe, you can buy some yourself if you don't want them welded on. There are clamp on style out there. but the welded kind hold everything tighter.
Posted Image

so you expected something that weights 5000 pounds and has aerodynamics of a piano to get what?


2003 Silverado XCSB, 4.8L, Flowmaster super44 SI/DO, G80 3.42, MSD Wires, K&N drop-in filter, Yellow Top Battery, Royal Purple in entire Drivetrain, W4M tune....My DD..............................SOLD
2010 Silverado XCSB 5.3L Z71 Summit White, Diablo Trinity tuned....more to come soon.
2010 Cobalt 2.2L LT 2Dr. Victory Red....gas saver/wife's Car.......SOLD
2011 Cruze 1.4L Turbo 1LT Crystal Red ...Again, Wifes car and gas saver
1978 LJ80, 16V 1600cc on 31's, Spring over lift, awaiting Full Frame off build...The Toy

#41 nubuilder

nubuilder

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 332 posts
  • Location:La Crosse, WI
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 November 2009 - 10:40 PM

I looked at my current down pipes/cat combo and there is no flange on it.
2 O2 sensors go in the down section (way before the cats) and 2 go after the cats.
I don't think the current setup is at all factory.

I have some concerns with the MagnaFlow down pipes/cat combo.

Posted Image

Posted Image

You see that the ends that bolt to the headers are fairly long. Can a shop cut them shorter (on account of my headers) and put the flare out ends back on them (to seal properly; like shown in the pic)?
In one shot, 2 O2 sensors are shown and in the other 3 are shown. I need 4. I don't see one behind the inner cat (there's no room).

Any thougthts?

Edited by nubuilder, 26 November 2009 - 10:48 PM.

Posted Image

#42 Nytemare

Nytemare

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 4,417 posts
  • Location:Victoria BC
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 November 2009 - 11:17 PM

Ok.
I forgot you had headers....your better off getting two universal cats in this case, and having the shop make the down pipes too.
Buy 4 new O2 weld on bungs. The shop will cut the holes and weld them in. They know where they go.

The cats are replacements for factory ones, so they should have all 4 bungs...but they're not going to work for you due to you having headers.

It will be much cheaper to start with just 2 universal Magnaflow Cats...and get everything fabbed up, than it would to modify those.

Buy 2 of these
http://www.car-sound...iversal=99009HM


Sorry man...I totally forgot you had headers.
Posted Image

so you expected something that weights 5000 pounds and has aerodynamics of a piano to get what?


2003 Silverado XCSB, 4.8L, Flowmaster super44 SI/DO, G80 3.42, MSD Wires, K&N drop-in filter, Yellow Top Battery, Royal Purple in entire Drivetrain, W4M tune....My DD..............................SOLD
2010 Silverado XCSB 5.3L Z71 Summit White, Diablo Trinity tuned....more to come soon.
2010 Cobalt 2.2L LT 2Dr. Victory Red....gas saver/wife's Car.......SOLD
2011 Cruze 1.4L Turbo 1LT Crystal Red ...Again, Wifes car and gas saver
1978 LJ80, 16V 1600cc on 31's, Spring over lift, awaiting Full Frame off build...The Toy

#43 snakedoctor

snakedoctor

    Senior Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 3,395 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 26 November 2009 - 11:31 PM

Also remember that most shops can't mandrel bend tubing, especially stainless. They are only equipped to compression bend.

#44 LaCeS OuT

LaCeS OuT

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 161 posts
  • Location:New York City
  • Gender:Male

Posted 27 November 2009 - 09:15 AM

Here is my setup on my 5.7:

This after the cats:
Posted Image

Then to dual these, 18" long 4" round:
Posted Image


After the Holidays, I am getting the MagnaFlow Dual Cats kit and Edelbrock Creamic Coated Shorty headers.


Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image


This is an older video. Still need to take a drive by:
Posted Image

Edited by LaCeS OuT, 27 November 2009 - 09:17 AM.

1999 GMC Yukon SLT 5.7L
Posted Image
Volant CAI | Magnaflow 18" Mufflers | 2.5" H-Pipe | Blackbear Tune
Vette Servo | 20" GMC Wheels | Timbren SES Kit | Addco Sway Bars


#45 nubuilder

nubuilder

    Enthusiast

  • Member
  • 332 posts
  • Location:La Crosse, WI
  • Gender:Male

Posted 27 November 2009 - 09:26 AM

Why should I get a 2" (99004HM) cat when I can get a 2.5" (99006HM) and keep the entire system 2.5"?

So if I can't get the pre-made setup, does MagnaFlow make a down pipe set specifically for my truck?

I'm going to call MagnaFlow on Monday and ask more about the measurements.
Specifically how far up the tubes go and the tube diameter.


LaCeS OuT, do you have the MagnaFlow down pipes with the cats (#23453)?
Where did you get the piece that goes after the cats?
Is it stainless?

Edited by nubuilder, 27 November 2009 - 09:34 AM.

Posted Image




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users