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Ok, My wife purchased a certified 2007 Yukon Denali and when I turn the key to "ON" but do not start the vehicle, the battery dies in 10 minutes (not completely, but it will not start after that)

 

I was thinking about installing a 2nd battery as there is already a 2nd battery tray under the hood... I am going to "remotely" isolate the battery. Meaning, I'm going to install a heavy duty 200amp relay that can be controlled from inside the vehicle so she would never have to get out, open the hood, wait for someone to give her a jump, etc... She would always have "On Demand" power to start the vehicle without ever stepping out.

 

My question is, how much current does the starter draw, and will a 2 or 4ga welding cable be enough to get the job done? A buddy of mine thinks it would be too much power going to the starter, but my reasoning to counteract his thoughts were "Its just like another car pulling up, hooking up, and giving it some juice, right?"

 

I'm using a welding cable because it is more flexible than a battery cable to fish around the engine bay.

 

Thoughts, comments, concerns? If I am missing anything let me know.

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Ok, My wife purchased a certified 2007 Yukon Denali and when I turn the key to "ON" but do not start the vehicle, the battery dies in 10 minutes (not completely, but it will not start after that)

 

I was thinking about installing a 2nd battery as there is already a 2nd battery tray under the hood... I am going to "remotely" isolate the battery. Meaning, I'm going to install a heavy duty 200amp relay that can be controlled from inside the vehicle so she would never have to get out, open the hood, wait for someone to give her a jump, etc... She would always have "On Demand" power to start the vehicle without ever stepping out.

 

My question is, how much current does the starter draw, and will a 2 or 4ga welding cable be enough to get the job done? A buddy of mine thinks it would be too much power going to the starter, but my reasoning to counteract his thoughts were "Its just like another car pulling up, hooking up, and giving it some juice, right?"

 

I'm using a welding cable because it is more flexible than a battery cable to fish around the engine bay.

 

Thoughts, comments, concerns? If I am missing anything let me know.

 

A typical V8 starter motor will be rated at about 2Kilowatts power, so current = power/voltage, or 2,000 watts/12 Volts = 166 amps. The initial draw to get the starter motor spinning may be quite a bit higher, but it last only for a moment.

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Ok, My wife purchased a certified 2007 Yukon Denali and when I turn the key to "ON" but do not start the vehicle, the battery dies in 10 minutes (not completely, but it will not start after that)

 

I was thinking about installing a 2nd battery as there is already a 2nd battery tray under the hood... I am going to "remotely" isolate the battery. Meaning, I'm going to install a heavy duty 200amp relay that can be controlled from inside the vehicle so she would never have to get out, open the hood, wait for someone to give her a jump, etc... She would always have "On Demand" power to start the vehicle without ever stepping out.

 

My question is, how much current does the starter draw, and will a 2 or 4ga welding cable be enough to get the job done? A buddy of mine thinks it would be too much power going to the starter, but my reasoning to counteract his thoughts were "Its just like another car pulling up, hooking up, and giving it some juice, right?"

 

I'm using a welding cable because it is more flexible than a battery cable to fish around the engine bay.

 

Thoughts, comments, concerns? If I am missing anything let me know.

 

 

Make sure that the vehicle has the latest software updates for charging issues. My 2007 did the exact same thing until they fixed it. There is a bulliten out on this. Make sure they give you a new battery because yours is trash now.

 

This was a weekly occurrence especially in the summer for some reason. After the update, it never happened again.

 

As far as installing a second battery, you can go 100% factory. Pickup trucks have a couple second battery options. Some are isolated and some are not. I can't remember if it was here or the dmax diesel site that had a post describing all the part numbers you will need including tray, cables, fuses, etc. Honestly, it will not be necessary to go throught the trouble once you get reflashed and a new battery.

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If you search with the words second battery there are at least 4 or 5 very informative threads that pop up!

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Certain '07 GM vehicles, particularly in the SUV/truck category had a BCM problem causing a "parasitic" draw on the electrical system. I know--my '07 GMC Sierra had this. Three times getting stranded with a dead battery under the 36,000 mile warranty. Four (4) visits to the local dealer and the same answer-"you must be leaving your lights on". A phone call to 1-800-GM-give a damn and I got permission to take it to another dealer. They told me up front of the BCM problem, put in a new battery, re-programmed the BCM, and all has been well since. Just my experience, David

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Ask your dealer to check his GM computer for a VIS on your truck to see if Recall/TSB #07033 BCM reprogram code 406CA has been performed.

 

This is for a battery discharge issue with certain 07 gmt-900 trucks.

Mine was one of them even tho. I had no battery discharge issues and was done while it was at the dealer for normal PM services.

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#07033B: Service Update for Inventory and Customer Vehicles-Battery Rundown-Expires with Base Warranty - (Feb 15, 2007)

 

 

Subject: 07033B -- Service Update for Inventory and Customer Vehicles - Battery Rundown -- Expires with Base Warranty

 

 

Models: 2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

 

2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

 

2007 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL

 

 

Purpose:

This bulletin provides a service procedure to reprogram the body control module (BCM). On these vehicles, and under certain conditions such as operating the radio with the engine off, the battery can become discharged, preventing engine start-up.

 

This service procedure should be completed as soon as possible on involved vehicles currently in dealer inventory and customer vehicles that return to the dealer for any type of service during the New Vehicle Limited Warranty coverage period.

 

Vehicles Involved:

A list of involved vehicles currently in dealer inventory is attached to the Administrative Message (US) or Dealer Communication (Canada) used to release this bulletin. Customer vehicles that return for service, for any reason, and are still covered under the vehicle's base warranty, and are within the VIN breakpoints provided below, should be checked for vehicle eligibility in the appropriate system listed below.

 

Year

Division

Model

From

Through

 

2007

Cadillac

Escalade

7R100158

7R350607

 

2007

Cadillac

Escalade ESV

7R136311

7R350603

 

2007

Cadillac

Escalade EXT

7G100001

7G274360

 

2007

Chevrolet

Avalanche

7G100002

7G274351

 

2007

Chevrolet

Silverado

71500002

71606869

 

7E500001

7E513617

 

7F500001

7F500145

 

7G500016

7G506215

 

7Z500001

7Z549763

 

2007

Chevrolet

Suburban

7G100004

7G274344

 

7J100041

7J318223

 

7R136280

7R350609

 

2007

Chevrolet

Tahoe

7J100002

7J318216

 

7R100001

7R350613

 

2007

GMC

Sierra

71500001

71606870

 

7E500003

7E513603

 

7F500004

7F500140

 

7G500017

7G506220

 

7Z500002

7Z549756

 

2007

GMC

Yukon

7J100040

7J318228

 

7R100040

7R350611

 

2007

GMC

Yukon XL

7J108390

7J318203

 

7R137014

7R350599

 

 

Important: Dealers are to confirm vehicle eligibility prior to beginning repairs by using GMVIS. Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.

 

Service Procedure:

Important: The calibration numbers required for this service procedure are programmed into control modules via a Techline Tech 2® scan tool and the Techline Information System (TIS) terminal with the calibration update. Use TIS 2 Web version 2.0 for 2007 (available on 02/04/07) and on TIS DVD version 2.0/2007 or later, that was mailed to dealers on 02/14/2007. If you cannot access the calibration, call the Techline Customer Support Center and it will be provided.

 

Notice: Before reprogramming, please check the battery condition to prevent a reprogramming error of any of the modules due to battery discharge. Battery voltage must be between 12 and 16 volts during reprogramming. If the vehicle battery is not fully charged, use jumper cables from an additional battery. Be sure to turn off or disable any system that may put a load on the battery, such as automatic headlamps, daytime running lights, interior lights, heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system, radio, engine cooling fan, etc. A programming failure or control module damage may occur if battery voltage guidelines are not observed.

 

The ignition switch must be in the proper position. The Tech 2® prompts you to turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. DO NOT change the position of the ignition switch during the programming procedure, unless instructed to do so.

 

Make certain all tool connections are secure, including the following components and circuits:

 

• The RS-232 communication cable port

 

• The connection at the data link connector (DLC)

 

• The voltage supply circuits

 

DO NOT disturb the tool harnesses while programming. If an interruption occurs during the programming procedure, programming failure or control module damage may occur.

 

DO NOT turn OFF the ignition if the programming procedure is interrupted or unsuccessful. Ensure that all control module and DLC connections are secure and the TIS terminal operating software is up to date.

 

Tech 2 Pass-Thru Method for the Body Control Module (BCM)

Verify that there is a battery charge of 12 to 16 volts. The battery must be able to maintain a charge during programming. Use an additional jump battery if necessary.

• If the vehicle will not start, test and charge the battery. Refer to SI for battery testing and charging information, if required.

 

• If the battery will not hold a charge, replace the battery. Do NOT replace the battery unless it can’t be charged or a leak and/or physical damage is present.

 

Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle and the TIS terminal.

Turn the ignition to the ON position with the engine OFF.

After all warning chimes inside the vehicle have stopped, turn on the Tech 2.

On the TIS terminal go into SPS Programming.

Select Pass Thru programming.

Follow instruction on the TIS terminal. When you get to the Supported Controllers screen.

7.1. Scroll down in the top box and select BCM (Body Control Module).

 

7.2. In the lower box select Normal.

 

7.3. Select Next.

 

Important: Vehicles without the Driver Information Center (DIC) and power door locks/windows will have two calibrations from which to choose. A selection is requried before you can select NEXT. Select calibration 25814828. Do not select calibration 25788372.

 

Select NEXT when the calibrations screen displays.

Follow on-screen prompts until programming is completed.

When programming is complete.

10.1. Turn off Tech 2.

 

10.2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

 

Wait 30 seconds.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position with engine OFF.

Turn on the Tech 2.

Go into diagnostics and check for DTC codes.

Clear all codes.

Important: Failure to successfully reprogram the BCM may result in the odometer displaying mileage in metric units instead of English units. To reset the odometer to display mileage in English units, remove the 10 amp fuse from the underhood BEC. Do not reinstall the fuse for 5 minutes.

 

Important: After reprogramming the body control module (BCM) the driver information center (DIC) will display tire pressure values as dashes. Do not perform the Tire Pressure Monitor Reset procedure. The Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) will update the instrument cluster with tire pressure values during the next driving event. The vehicle must reach a speed of 40 km/h (25 mph) in order for the RCDLR to update the display.

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Remember, the only thing that is free of charge is a dead battery.

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Remember, the only thing that is free of charge is a dead battery.

 

:dunno:

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Thanks guys, it sounds to me like that TSB was never installed on the Denali. which is why it is STILL draining. I appreciate the help.

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I went out yesterday and my truck started fine, 5 hours later...dead. Should I bother bringing it in, never happened before?

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Fast......................Is the first no start condition you have had?

I will also note that my almost 3 yo gmt-900 had a dead battery last week.

Dealer replaced battery under warranty . All good now.

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Remember, the only thing that is free of charge is a dead battery.

 

That's a good one, I laughed pretty loud.

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I have found with my GMT900 the battery runs dead if there is ANYTHING turned on. As a for instance in my GMT800 I had my radar detector hard wired and nerver turned it off and it never ran the battery down, even when it sat at the airport for a week or so. In my GMT 900 I had to wire it to switched power because the truck will not start if it is left on. Even if it is for one night. Is it possible that my '09 needs a similar update?

 

I experienced the same thing with a relay I put in that has only a tiny LED drawing power. Seems kind of weak to me, I feel my car battery should be able to run an LED without killing the truck.

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I had the dead battery problem for a few months in my 2007 Silverado and had been searching for an answer. Was left stranded a few times and I purchased a portable jump starter that was a good temporary fix. A trip to Firestone to check the charging system after one episode revealed no problems. Finally reached the max frustration point and ran across this GM-Trucks forum. Other site called Carcomplaints.com had description of problem but no answers. I saw that Body Control Reprogram 07033 might be possible solution so took vehicle in. Was just out of 36-month basic warranty but shop replaced battery with dead cell and reprogrammed module at no charge as I had paperwork showing that I had looked into problem before warranty expired. All has been good for 2 weeks now. I have been receiving monthly Onstar reports since 2007, and there was no mention of a recall. I pointed this out to the shop and that may have softened them also, as they were ready to charge $. Seems like Onstar report system would be the best place to receive recall info but perhaps has some holes.

 

Thanks to folks below that took the time to post a solution. :confused:

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