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Pulling Pitman And Idler Arm


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#1 roperninja

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 08:30 PM

So its my first time doing this job but it seems simple enough. But I am having a problem removing them from the rod that they attach to. I cant seem to pop them off the shaft with a pickel fork or anything.... Any chevy tricks I am missing?

#2 Matt_

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 08:33 PM

A puller does wonders

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Used carfully, a 2-jaw puller will work as well.
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#3 Zembonez

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 08:42 PM

+1 million. You'll need a puller to pop it loose... then it will practically fall off.

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#4 LeoS41280

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 09:01 PM

Posted ImageThis is the type I have and use.
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#5 roperninja

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 09:03 PM

Its the rod that attaches to the tie rods that I cant pop off...

#6 LeoS41280

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 09:08 PM

Take the nut off. Then put it back on just a few turns to protect the threads, then give the knuckle a good wack with a hammer.
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#7 Matt_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 04:59 AM

he's talking about the center link, not the spindle.
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#8 LeoS41280

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 06:40 AM

Works on tie rod ends also.
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#9 Matt_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 08:22 AM

yes, that method works great for dislodging tie rod ends. the OP is trying to get the center link off the idler and pitman arms... not the tie rod/knuckle.

are you saying that you hit the knuckle with a hammer to dislodge the center link from the idler or pitman arm?
if so, ive never seen that technique used successfully on siezed idler and pitman joints....
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#10 roperninja

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 10:11 AM

This.

Id really like to know some ancient trick to this im sure some fella has one.

yes, that method works great for dislodging tie rod ends. the OP is trying to get the center link off the idler and pitman arms... not the tie rod/knuckle.

are you saying that you hit the knuckle with a hammer to dislodge the center link from the idler or pitman arm?
if so, ive never seen that technique used successfully on siezed idler and pitman joints....



#11 Matt_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 11:20 AM

andrew... about $25 at an auto parts store will be money well spent. If a pickle fork isnt doing the trick then you either need a bigger hammer, stronger arms, or get a puller.

...especially for the pitman arm. the $25 spent for the puller will pay for itself by not damaging the steering box & seals. just my $.02
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#12 Matt_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 11:27 AM

OR if you have the centerlink off of the truck and are just trying to pop the idler and pitman arms off of it, you can use an air chissel with the blunt tip on it. support the center link, put the nut on the pitman arm threads a few turns and then give it a few hits with the air chissel... should pop right off.

some guys will do this with it attached on the truck still but i was always concerned with damaging the steering box.
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#13 richface109

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 06:20 PM

I did this job on my '93 K1500 about 2 months ago and lemme tell you...first of all the puller wasn't too bad...i had to go to about 3 different parts stores to find out that the biggest fork they made was too small to fit the other side of the pitman arm. Easy fix we found was to use a hand grinder to make it wide enough...10 minutes later with a 10 pound sledge and very tired arms that thing finally came off...good luck dude



andrew... about $25 at an auto parts store will be money well spent. If a pickle fork isnt doing the trick then you either need a bigger hammer, stronger arms, or get a puller.

...especially for the pitman arm. the $25 spent for the puller will pay for itself by not damaging the steering box & seals. just my $.02



#14 EvilLax

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Posted 04 June 2011 - 11:12 PM

I used the puller for both the idler arm and pitman arm, the pickle fort was useless for me. I used my impact wrench on this and throttled down until that SOB came off.

I'll echo richface109, "good luck dude!"
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#15 doug_scott

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 01:15 AM

The method I always used for taper joints was to give the spot on the arm where the tapered joint is. Hard to describe, so I will use another joint for an example. For example, look at the spindle, and look where the tie rod end attaches. To free it from the spindle, loosen the nut from the tie rod end almost completely removing it, then with the largest ball peen hammer you have, strike the spindle as hard as you can, at the point where the tie rod end passes through it. The logic is that you distort the taper slightly, and the tie rod end will drop out. Now apply that description to what ever tapered joint you are trying to free. I just used the outer tie rod end for simplicity.




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