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What steps do I need to take to change the rotors on my Truck? 07 Sierra. I've done it before on imports just never on a Truck.

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bout the same. id have to look at mine but im 2200 miles away from it. i believe after you pull the wheel off, pull your caliper and pads. then there should be a cap over your wheel bearing. pry that off, dont damage it. then there is a cotter pin through a nut. pull out the pin and remove the nut. wheel bering should come out and the rotor should come off the spindle. when you reinstall repack the bearing with grease

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bout the same. id have to look at mine but im 2200 miles away from it. i believe after you pull the wheel off, pull your caliper and pads. then there should be a cap over your wheel bearing. pry that off, dont damage it. then there is a cotter pin through a nut. pull out the pin and remove the nut. wheel bering should come out and the rotor should come off the spindle. when you reinstall repack the bearing with grease

 

If that's what you believe than I suggest you obtain a service manual :cool:

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:cool: funny.... thats the way the older rmodels were done though. make sure to re-pack the wheel bearings!

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i havent changed them on my truck yet. i have on my 76 firebird, 87 thunderbird turbo coupe, 89 s-10 and my 92 integra., so im talking out my ass. tryin to help a lil bit though

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i havent changed them on my truck yet. i have on my 76 firebird, 87 thunderbird turbo coupe, 89 s-10 and my 92 integra., so im talking out my ass. tryin to help a lil bit though

 

It's a hell of a lot easier now....but there are some bolts that require thread locking compound and of course you need to know the torque values for the caliper bolts and the caliper bracket bolts. There are no bearings to worry about packing.

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not even on the 2wd?! I thought the bearings ran inside the rotor assy of the 2wd's....

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Not on the new stuff my 95 had $30 wheel bearings on the front that you had to pack but the new ones are 150-200 bucks because they are a sealed unit with the wheel speed sensor all in one. When it starts to howl be prepared to fork out the bucks. 3 points require the bolts to be removed... the wheel nuts, caliper to bracket bolts and caliper bracket bolts. I believe the caliper bracket bolts will be a high torque when you put them back on. Aluminum wheels to 100 ft/lbs. With minor experience should be able to complete both sides in less than 2 hours

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It's easy. You take off the wheel, then take off the calipers (the bolts are REALLY tight) then hit the old rotor with a rubber mallet a little and it comes right off. If there's any little lock washers on the lug nut bolts, just cut them off, you don't need them anymore. Then install the new rotors and put the calipers and wheels back on. It's really simple.

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A couple of comments:

 

1. New rotors are almost always coated with rust preventive compound of some type or they are oiled. Use acetone or brake cleaner to clean and degr3ease both sides of the new rotor before you install it. Otherwise you will track the oil or rustproofing spray into your brake pads.

 

2. Never let the calipers hang by the brake rubber hose. Make a caliper hanger from a piece of stiff wire, such as a wire coathanger, and bend it into an "S" shape and suspend the caliper securely from the coil spring while replacing the rotors.

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Is it newer style or classic? 2wd or 4wd?

 

On my 2007 newer style 2wd all I had to do was take the calipers off and then there was one torx head screw holding the rotor on, near the hub? They just slid off after that!

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Not on the new stuff my 95 had $30 wheel bearings on the front that you had to pack but the new ones are 150-200 bucks because they are a sealed unit with the wheel speed sensor all in one. When it starts to howl be prepared to fork out the bucks. 3 points require the bolts to be removed... the wheel nuts, caliper to bracket bolts and caliper bracket bolts. I believe the caliper bracket bolts will be a high torque when you put them back on. Aluminum wheels to 100 ft/lbs. With minor experience should be able to complete both sides in less than 2 hours
GM and the rest FORD, and Dodge can't help but make things more expensive to fix, and more of a PITA to get to/remove can they!? :flag::mad::cool: just about like sealed unit U-joints...WORTHLESS.

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Is it newer style or classic? 2wd or 4wd?

 

On my 2007 newer style 2wd all I had to do was take the calipers off and then there was one torx head screw holding the rotor on, near the hub? They just slid off after that!

what size torx is it?

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Is it newer style or classic? 2wd or 4wd?

 

On my 2007 newer style 2wd all I had to do was take the calipers off and then there was one torx head screw holding the rotor on, near the hub? They just slid off after that!

what size torx is it?

 

 

If it's like the 800 series it's a T55...btw, the caliper bracket bolts require lock tite and are torqued up in the 120 lb ft range....mine were 121, not sure about yours.

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I need to change my rotors and pads also because of deep grooves and vibration under braking. I didnt want to just turn the crap factory rotors so I bought some powerlsots and hawk pads.

 

I have checked out the videos on Wonder How To

It seems pretty straight forward I guess if you don't run into any problems.

 

Also is it necessary to bleed the brakes? Cant you depress the piston back in without opening the bleeder valve?

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