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'97 Sierra Transmission Fluid Change


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I think a transmission fluid and filter change is long overdue for my truck as it has just under 103k on it and the transmission has never been touched, at least according to my records that I got from the previous owner. How should I got about this...

- I believe this is a shallow pan 4l60e as it has no drain plug

- I have no idea whether the transmission fluid is synthetic or conventional, it's whatever came from the factory in 1997

How would I drain the fluid? If I just pulled the pan, wouldn't I get fluid all over the driveway? Do I need to install a new gasket? Can I get all of the fluid out somehow?

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The guide is for a GMT-800. The '97 is still a GMT-400. My pan looks like this (picture I took of it back in January, a bit salty), with no drain plug visible:

IMG_0742.jpg

 

EDIT: After reading the guide, and not just looking at the pictures, I can just loosen the bolts on one end and drain it that way, though it will be messy.

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It's going to be messy, there's really no way around that. If you're planning on keeping the truck for a long time and changing the trans fluid regularly, you can pick up a drain plug kit from your local parts store. They're pretty cheap, pretty straightforward, and it'll make draining the fluid SOOO much easier the next time you do it.

 

The new trains filter will (should) come with a new gasket, unless your truck was equipped with a reusable one. If it was, it should still come with one, but I would recommend reusing the old one.

 

One lesson I've learned is don't replace that seal that goes up into the transmission that the filter pushes into unless it's physically damaged. They're a pain in the ass to take out, and even harder to put back in. Just feel around inside of it to make sure none of the gasket material is torn or damaged. If not, you're good, just throw the new filter right in.

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If you do plan on putting a drain plug in your pan, you can just drill it out before removing the pan, that will allow it to drain a little cleaner for the initial removal. Of course you will want to put a depth limiter on your drill bit...

--Mike

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Alright, just for future reference if anyone wants to change their fluid on a similar truck as mine, I believe the 4l60e in my C1500 is in fact a shallow pan as the pan is flat, and in my Factory Service Manual for the 1997 year, it states that 5 quarts of fluid is needed for a "4L60-E Oil Pan Removal" and 11 quarts for a "4L60-E Overhaul". The deep pan seems to hold about 2 more quarts than the shallow pan in the GMT-400. If you go to get a new filter from Autozone, you can choose between a shallow pan or deep pan filter, so I chose the shallow pan filter. I'll update if it was the right filter when I change the fluid tomorrow.

 

I also picked up 6 quarts of Dexron VI (1 quart extra just in case some fluid comes out of the torque converter and such), which replaces the Dexron III from the factory. I figured it was better to get the actual fluid with GM's specifications than whatever an oil manufacturer thinks is Dexron III. Plus, Dexron VI seems to allow for smoother shifting than Dexron III. Though the Dexron VI will be diluted with some of the old Dexron III, I'm hoping to restore a bright pink color to the fluid than the current dark pink (which thankfully doesn't smell like it's burnt).

 

I didn't get a new seal, as I'm not having any transmission trouble at all, I'm just doing this as preventative maintenance. If it's a major PITA for something that is in fine shape, it's not worth it. Then again if it is somehow damaged, I'll have to run back to Autozone.

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arrghhhh.......... like an idiot, I forgot to put the filter seal in place. How could I be so stupid you ask? The seal was actually stuck on the old filter, which I quickly tossed aside and forgot about until today. Interestingly enough when I dropped the pan, the old filter and seal were in the pan and not installed. I'm quite sure this transmission fluid has never been replaced, so i don't know how long it had been like this. When I installed the new filter, I just pushed it up into where it goes and somehow got it to stay, assuming the new filter came with a seal on it, which it didn't. I assumed when I had bubbles in the fluid that I had overfilled the fluid, but 4 quarts went out, and 4 went in, so it's definitely the lack of an installed seal causing the airation.

 

Time to drop the pan again tomorrow and rectify the situation. Thank goodness the old seal looks like it's brand new, so I'll reuse it, and thank goodness I didn't drive much before I figured this out. It must have not been pushed in far enough the first time, so it fell out.

 

The real PITA about this project is the crossmember that supports the transmission (you may be able to see it's unholiness from the above picture). Part of the crossmember blocks 3 or 4 bolts at the back of the pan, which elicited a good amount of anger from me. Praise the all-mighty 3/8" universal adapter! (would have really helped had I remembered it after 2-3 hours of struggling with the crossmember.

 

Also, the truck does take the shallow pan filter. The neck is a little longer on the aftermarket (Duralast made by Champion labs), but it still fits.

 

EDIT: It's finally done. The new filter did actually come with a new seal...that didn't fit. I tried working it in, but all I got was a warped seal with the rubber coming off. Since the old seal was in fine shape, I pushed that one back in, which actually fit nice and snug. I'm hoping it didn't go in too easy, but I tried pulling down on it and it seemed to be firmly in there, plus I gave it a few taps with a ball peen hammer and punch to firmly seat it. The filter went in tight as well.

 

The Dexron VI is smooth, VERY smooth. It's a noticeable difference from how it was before (and this time the filter and seal are actually installed).

 

The only remaining question mark is the fluid level. The fluid is so clean that I can't even see it on the dipstick. I added 4 quarts + a little more, which was the amount that came out. It should be at the right level, but why can't I see the level when it's hot? At least there's no bubbles in it this time...

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there is a full cold and a full hot mark on the stick ,the oil is red and is very noticable on the stick,make sure truck is level .

 

of course level is checked with idling engine

 

yes the xmemebr is a bear unless its on the hoist hehe

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  • 6 months later...

, dfsdf

arrghhhh.......... like an idiot, I forgot to put the filter seal in place. How could I be so stupid you ask? The seal was actually stuck on the old filter, which I quickly tossed aside and forgot about until today. Interestingly enough when I dropped the pan, the old filter and seal were in the pan and not installed. I'm quite sure this transmission fluid has never been replaced, so i don't know how long it had been like this. When I installed the new filter, I just pushed it up into where it goes and somehow got it to stay, assuming the new filter came with a seal on it, which it didn't. I assumed when I had bubbles in the fluid that I had overfilled the fluid, but 4 quarts went out, and 4 went in, so it's definitely the lack of an installed seal causing the airation.

 

Time to drop the pan again tomorrow and rectify the situation. Thank goodness the old seal looks like it's brand new, so I'll reuse it, and thank goodness I didn't drive much before I figured this out. It must have not been pushed in far enough the first time, so it fell out.

 

The real PITA about this project is the crossmember that supports the transmission (you may be able to see it's unholiness from the above picture). Part of the crossmember blocks 3 or 4 bolts at the back of the pan, which elicited a good amount of anger from me. Praise the all-mighty 3/8" universal adapter! (would have really helped had I remembered it after 2-3 hours of struggling with the crossmember.

 

Also, the truck does take the shallow pan filter. The neck is a little longer on the aftermarket (Duralast made by Champion labs), but it still fits.

 

EDIT: It's finally done. The new filter did actually come with a new seal...that didn't fit. I tried working it in, but all I got was a warped seal with the rubber coming off. Since the old seal was in fine shape, I pushed that one back in, which actually fit nice and snug. I'm hoping it didn't go in too easy, but I tried pulling down on it and it seemed to be firmly in there, plus I gave it a few taps with a ball peen hammer and punch to firmly seat it. The filter went in tight as well.

 

The Dexron VI is smooth, VERY smooth. It's a noticeable difference from how it was before (and this time the filter and seal are actually installed).

 

The only remaining question mark is the fluid level. The fluid is so clean that I can't even see it on the dipstick. I added 4 quarts + a little more, which was the amount that came out. It should be at the right level, but why can't I see the level when it's hot? At least there's no bubbles in it this time...

 

How did you manage to deal with the crossmember? I want to change my fluid and filter as well. But I have the same crossmember on mine. I read somewhere that you have to loosen the entire crossmember and place a jack somewhere under the transmission to get it off. Would you mind telling me how you did yours? Thanks in advance.

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It's a two-wheel drive. If I use a jack on the back of the tranny, it seems a bit dangerous given the back is rounded. I am using ramps to raise the front of the truck. So, I'd be ramped and jacked all at once. Not sure how much play I have when raising the transmission. I'm assuming just enough to get the weight off the crossmember. Wouldn't want to bend something in the front. But I'm broke enough not to pay someone else to do it. So, I am forced to do it myself. I could get the bolts off with a wrench without moving the crossmember. But it would be hell to get them back on without more room. So it has to slide back.

 

Is there a reason you have to jack a 2WD up in the back? Just curious. And thanks for the info.

 

post-89549-1298305055_thumb.jpg

 

 

hold the back of tranny if 2wd and the t case if 4wd ,with a jack of some sort...

 

or

 

pay the hr labour at a garage

post-89549-1298305055_thumb.jpg

post-89549-1298305055_thumb.jpg

post-89549-1298305055_thumb.jpg

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raise the rear of the transmission pivoting off the engine mounts,raise it enoungh to slide xmember back enough to remove pan .

 

be carefull

 

you can lower the tranny down on the xmemeber with a 2x4 ,

 

be carefull,,

 

remove all bolts except 1 side and loosen them all lowering the other side slowly ,draining the fluid carefully and slowly ,

 

do not remove the seal for the filter,they are a bear to remove and get in the new one,it will be FINE

 

be smart and carefull !!!!

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Thanks so much govtech4. I managed to complete the service. But boy, I can't tell you how many times I thought ill of the engineers that designed the parts placement. The transplate had a bolt sticking down into the xmember. This bolt was so long, I was afraid to jack the back of the tranny to clear the xmember. So, I had to take the transplate off by taking the other two screws holding it in place. This area was a bear to get into.

 

After an hour of tightening these bolts, I realized I was singing the wrong tune man. "Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty". After that, they came out like a dream. Once the transplate was loosened, everthing slid back perfectly.

 

I managed to complete the service with no hitches after that. Other than a little smoking due to fluid spillage, all went well. And now I have a happy Chevy. Thanks again for your advice. It really helped.

 

For those reading who are planning this for yourself, get your tools ready ahead of time. It will save you a headache, literally. Seems I used 13mm,15mm and 17mm sizes for the entire process. Socket extensions and deep sockets come in handy. I'm sure every car is different. But the sizes above are great for a 1995 Cheverolet Silverado K1500.

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The above method is probably much easier than what I did. If I recall correctly, I loosened the crossmember and put the jack underneath it on one side to twist it out of the way. With the small amount of room that I had, I fished a 13 or 15mm socket with a bunch of extensions and two universal sockets on a ratchet in order to loosen the rear bolts. It really wasn't a good time when I realized that the seal was loose and had to repeat the process over again. Like govtech4 said, if your filter seal is still good, don't remove it. Unfortunately for me, mine was already in the pan by the time I opened it up.

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