2010 Silverado Non-bose Stereo Wiring Diagram

[kalashluvr]

does anyone have a link to this? I'm trying to integrate a PAC AOEM-GM1416 module with aftermarket speakers, amp, and sub, to my factory head unit.....but can't figure out how I'm going to get signal back to the factory speaker wiring harness without splicing. Is that what has to happen?

 

Of course, the instructions aren't very good....

 

[tunseeker1]

Are you changing the radio or keeping the radio?

 

I didn't think that module worked in 2010

[kalashluvr]

Are you changing the radio or keeping the radio?

 

I didn't think that module worked in 2010

 

Yowza....I hope you're wrong!!! Keeping the factory radio. So far all of the plugs are correct for the back of the radio.

[tunseeker1]

ok so keep the factory radio and add amplifiers for the factory speakers or use radio power for the factory speakers?

[kalashluvr]

ok so keep the factory radio and add amplifiers for the factory speakers or use radio power for the factory speakers?

 

Kept factory head unit, replaced the factory speakers with aftermarket speakers, added a 5-channel amp and Probox with single 10 inch ported sub.

 

The PAC module worked great on the 2010 head unit. I plugged the male connectors on the PAC module into the factory head unit, then plugged RCAs into the PAC, ran the RCAs back to the amp. Then, before the 5-channel amp, used Y-Cables (RCA) to split the signal on the rear RCAs, to feed the 5th channel for the sub. Came back out of the amp with the speaker wire BACK to the PAC module and patched in the speaker wire to the matching wires of the female connectors on the PAC module. Also, there's a blue wire hanging off of the PAC module....connected a wire on that to run back to the amp for the remote turn on. Once the 8 speaker wires coming off of the amp were patched into the PAC unit, the female connectors on the PAC accept the factory speaker wire harness male connectors.

[tunseeker1]

Nice job.

[2009SierraZ71]

ok so keep the factory radio and add amplifiers for the factory speakers or use radio power for the factory speakers?

 

Kept factory head unit, replaced the factory speakers with aftermarket speakers, added a 5-channel amp and Probox with single 10 inch ported sub.

 

The PAC module worked great on the 2010 head unit. I plugged the male connectors on the PAC module into the factory head unit, then plugged RCAs into the PAC, ran the RCAs back to the amp. Then, before the 5-channel amp, used Y-Cables (RCA) to split the signal on the rear RCAs, to feed the 5th channel for the sub. Came back out of the amp with the speaker wire BACK to the PAC module and patched in the speaker wire to the matching wires of the female connectors on the PAC module. Also, there's a blue wire hanging off of the PAC module....connected a wire on that to run back to the amp for the remote turn on. Once the 8 speaker wires coming off of the amp were patched into the PAC unit, the female connectors on the PAC accept the factory speaker wire harness male connectors.

 

 

 

Excellent. So, you didn't have to take the doors apart again if you had run the speaker wire right to the speakers in the doors. Sounds like a very neat installation.

 

How does it sound? And how amplified are the turn signals/warning chimes?

 

Very nice job.

[kalashluvr]

ok so keep the factory radio and add amplifiers for the factory speakers or use radio power for the factory speakers?

 

Kept factory head unit, replaced the factory speakers with aftermarket speakers, added a 5-channel amp and Probox with single 10 inch ported sub.

 

The PAC module worked great on the 2010 head unit. I plugged the male connectors on the PAC module into the factory head unit, then plugged RCAs into the PAC, ran the RCAs back to the amp. Then, before the 5-channel amp, used Y-Cables (RCA) to split the signal on the rear RCAs, to feed the 5th channel for the sub. Came back out of the amp with the speaker wire BACK to the PAC module and patched in the speaker wire to the matching wires of the female connectors on the PAC module. Also, there's a blue wire hanging off of the PAC module....connected a wire on that to run back to the amp for the remote turn on. Once the 8 speaker wires coming off of the amp were patched into the PAC unit, the female connectors on the PAC accept the factory speaker wire harness male connectors.

 

 

 

Excellent. So, you didn't have to take the doors apart again if you had run the speaker wire right to the speakers in the doors. Sounds like a very neat installation.

 

How does it sound? And how amplified are the turn signals/warning chimes?

 

Very nice job.

 

 

I don't have anything to compare it to, but I think it sounds amazing for a factory head unit.....didn't have to take apart the doors......didn't cut into the factory wiring harness either..only patched into the PAC module that feeds all of the door speakers and front tweeters. The turn signals and chimes are pretty loud, and I had to turn down the fronts so much I could barely hear them. For now though, I've split the right front channel and turned the gain back up at the amp (losing some music image here, but I can't take the blinker and chime volume), and hoping I can find a solution.....I can't imagine this Probox with a single 10" and 400 watts RMS...I'm only around 150 watts on it and it's too much for the system as it stands right now...

[lowtech]

Just to be clear....

 

On one harness there is...

 

Green = <-------- ??not sure??

Green = RF Speaker +

Light Green = RF Speaker -

Light Orange = LF Speaker -

Grey = LF Speaker +

Yellow = Illumination yellow (dimmer) + <-------- ??not sure??

White/Red = 12v +

Black = Ground -

 

On the other there is...

 

Brown = LR Speaker -

Yellow = LR Speaker +

Light Blue = RR Speaker +

Dark Blue = RR Speaker -

 

[lowtech]

ReQ5 is installed but still not sure on the wiring for the stereo harness...

 

The pics are the req5 in,the two drilled holes for the wires, and the ridge I ran the wires all through.

 

 

 

 

[NOTORIOUS68]

Hey Fellas .. 1st time post I just got my 2010 silverado crew cab 4 door non bose system .. and I want to keep my stock stereo but want to change the door speakers , does any body know what size they are ?and maybe add an amp to it ?? will all this apply to my truck as well?? iM sorry to sound like such a newbie , but I just want to make sure it gets done right ..

 

ALL replys are welcomed and thank you for the info already provided

[undercover_skank]

good info. i wanted to keep my stock head unit also. (high theft) but i dont want to deal with the chimes. i hope someone finds a soloution to that.

[temmert1]

All 4 door speakers are 6.5 's. I replaced mine with Polk Audio 6.5's

[NOTORIOUS68]

All 4 door speakers are 6.5 's. I replaced mine with Polk Audio 6.5's

 

 

NICE.. do they sound much better ??