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Front End Popping About To Drive Me Crazy


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#1 plainvanilla

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 05:31 PM

2007 Silverado 1500 - 62,000 miles

for about 6 months I have had a mild popping sound coming from my front end both sides when I make a slow speed turn, like entering a parking lot or turning onto my street

as soon as I turn and the suspension loads a little I get one single pop

I checked and re-lubed the ball joints and they seem fine

I also spray lubed the control arm bushings about 2 weeks ago and it didn't help

any suggestions?
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#2 BigBlueLB756

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 05:43 PM

Check your body mount bolts and re-torque to 73 lb/ft.

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#3 Matt_

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 06:07 PM

There have been quite a few members posting about this 'popping' noise lately.... im interested to see where thiis goes..

Can you feel it in the steering wheel at all or is it just audible and nothing can actually be felt?
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#4 GPSilverado

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 06:21 PM

Mine does this occasionally. It isn't something that I can recreate at will, but it is always when the front end is moving, like turning into a drive at an angle where one tire loads before the other, or sometimes when the front end is lifting on take off, or settling on braking.

It didn't start this until I had my transmission removed under warranty for repairs, but I have checked all bolts on the cross-member and they are tight. I did lube the stabilizer bar bushings too, and I have lubed the driveshaft splines just in case.

It could be the ball joints, or control arm bushings maybe...

Hopefully someone will figure this one out.
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#5 gnet158

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 06:28 PM

Mine does it too. I took it to the sealer and of course the tech was unable to duplicate. I'm thinking it's the ball joint or tie rods. I'm almost out of warranty so I'll make sure to take the service manager for a ride before I leave it.
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#6 Blown03

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 07:01 PM

I had this terrible around 21k miles or so, ended up being the ball joints on both sides, they were so bad that the dealer gave me a rental and wouldn't let me take it home. Now I'm at 41k miles and it's slowly beginning to pop again. Which tells me the ball joints are yet again on there way out. I no longer have a warranty so when they get bad, I'll get the replacements from moog and do them myself
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#7 ilmk123

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 07:30 PM

Check A frame bolts. Mine had the popping sound and when I tightend them up all I could move them was a1/4" with two half inch breaker bars. It did stop the popping sound....scott

#8 mxdirtrider56

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 08:49 PM

I-shaft most likely. Silverados have had a big problem with these.

Edited by mxdirtrider56, 25 August 2010 - 08:49 PM.

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#9 asilverblazer

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 08:49 PM

Mine does this too, been doing it for the last 40k miles, no better no worse. Make me think its not the ball joints, they should be getting worse by now if it was them. If I manage to remember I'll go torque on some body mounts and lower control arms, might accidently fix it.

I can not feel mine in the steering wheel, can not feel it in the seat, really can't feel it at all. Only can be heard. In the exact situations described.

Edited by asilverblazer, 25 August 2010 - 08:50 PM.

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#10 plainvanilla

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 09:10 PM

There have been quite a few members posting about this 'popping' noise lately.... im interested to see where thiis goes..

Can you feel it in the steering wheel at all or is it just audible and nothing can actually be felt?



you can't feel anything, only a slight, quick single pop sound when the suspension loads in a slight, soft, slow speed turn

it is equal on both sides
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#11 plainvanilla

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 09:13 PM

Mine does this too, been doing it for the last 40k miles, no better no worse. Make me think its not the ball joints, they should be getting worse by now if it was them. If I manage to remember I'll go torque on some body mounts and lower control arms, might accidently fix it.

I can not feel mine in the steering wheel, can not feel it in the seat, really can't feel it at all. Only can be heard. In the exact situations described.



that would be great if you posted your results :cool:
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#12 USMdude

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 09:44 PM

I have dealt with gremlins like this before...

If it has been on a rack and had work that caused it, to say on the rack (lift) for an extended period of time (transmission, differential, etc, etc) Aka. it spent the night lifted in the air. Simple quick thing is to loosen control arm bolt nuts (slightly). All 4 four on one side. Then re-torque them. Do not lift the truck to do this. Leave the wheel on the ground. This will allow the bushings to creep around and get out of a bind. Which can cause front end noise.... Sometimes when you have front end work they wait till it is on the line up machine to tighten everything because if the suspension is not loaded by the weight of the vehicle when you do this it will cause noise when you let it down. Because it has the bushings tight at the wrong level and your over stretching the bushings.

Ball Joints on GMT-900's seem to be a hot topic. And a frequent problem, for some people.

Tie Rods will make noise when they are near the end of service life. Doubt full at 62k they are toast.

Body bushings will do this also as mentioned above. Loosen and re torque.

In my experience spraying grease or oil on bushings only amplifies noise problems... I have never found it to fix a squeak... Only thing I remember grease keeping from squeaking is poly urethane bushings.

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#13 rebelman06

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 06:19 PM

I noticed your profile said a 2007 Classic. If it is a 2WD, I may have a solution for you. My truck was popping on slow turns, speedbumps, parking garage ramps, dirt roads, ect. I had my ball joints checked and my tie rods replaced, but my 2006 still did it (before and after my RC lift). I fixed the noise I was hearing by removing the crossmember, scraping some undercoating away from the bolt holes, and adding the washers specified in the TSB listed below. The P/N is 11509592 (8 required) and is available through GMPartsDirect, GMPartsGiant, and your local dealer. It took me about 30/45 minutes with a break or two for some water. There is also another TSB that involves adding nylon spacers to the body mounts. I also bought those because the spacers and washers are pretty cheap, but I did not need them after the crossmember work. The only tools needed was a ratchet, breaker bar, small extension, a couple of metric sockets, and your choice of ramps or jacks.

Service Information
Document ID: 2006229 #03-08-61-002I: Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming From Front of Vehicle (Remove Bolt-In Front Crossmember and Add Washers) - (Aug 27, 2007)



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Subject:Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Bolt-In Front Crossmember and Add Washers)


Models:2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade

2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe

2004-2007 Chevrolet Silverado (Classic)

2003-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2004-2007 GMC Sierra (Classic)

2003-2008 HUMMER H2

1500 Series ( Ton) and 2500 Series ( Ton) with Two-Wheel Drive




Attention: This bulletin only applies to 1500/2500 Series 2WD and HUMMER H2 vehicles with recirculating ball type steering.


This bulletin is being revised to update the parts information to include a new washer for HUMMER H2. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002H (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).

<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com...7#ss1-2006229">
Condition
Some customers may comment on a snap or popping-type noise coming from the front of the vehicle. This condition is most apparent during hard left or right turns at low speeds. Going over bumps while turning may also aid in producing this noise.

<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com...7#ss2-2006229">
Correction
Remove the bolt-in front crossmember and add washers using the procedure listed below.

Important: DO NOT slot the mounting holes on the crossmember as stated in previous bulletins. Slotting the holes has been found to be less effective and, in some cases, causes the noise condition to be more prevalent.
  • <LI type=1>Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI. <LI type=1>Remove the mounting nuts, bolts and the front crossmember from the vehicle. <LI type=1>Clean all the undercoating off the crossmember in the area of the mounting holes. <LI type=1>Reinstall the crossmember with the bolts and nuts. On the driver and passenger side, add washer P/N 11509592 (C/K models) or P/N 15567836 (H2), or equivalent hardened washer (see dimensions below), at each bolt head and nut location. Tighten
    Tighten the bolts to 120 Nm (89 lb ft).
  • Apply an even coat of Anti-Corrosion Coating, P/N 12346501 (in Canada, 10952414), or equivalent, to the crossmember where removed. Overlap the original coating in order to provide an effective corrosion protection.
<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com...#tab3-2006229">
C/K Models
Inside Diameter

Outside Diameter

Thickness

14 mm (0.551 in)

35 mm (1.38 in)

3 mm (0.118 in)

<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com...#tab4-2006229">
H2
Inside Diameter

Outside Diameter

Thickness

14 mm (0.551 in)

24 mm (0.945 in)

3 mm (0.118 in)

<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com...7#ss5-2006229">
Parts Information
Part Number

Description

Qty

11509592

(C/K Models)

Washer

8

15567836

(H2)

Washer

8

<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com...7#ss6-2006229">
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

E1730

Crossmember, Front Suspension - Replace

Use Published Labor Operation Time

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.


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#14 isutechman

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 09:02 PM

My 2004 has started making this noise this summer. I have done the spacer trick and it has not fixed the problem. I tooked it to a local shop and they had two guys test drive and look everything over and they think it is one of the coil springs shifting. Drives me nuts and it would be nice to find a solution someday.

Any one with 4wd trucks having this problem or is it limited to 2wd?

#15 rebelman06

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 09:09 PM

Did your shop do the washer TSB or the body mount TSB? The body mount could occur on a 4wd, but the crossmember/washer situation would not because the 4wd crossmember setup is different IIRC.
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