Step By Step Process - Brake Pads And Rotors On A 2001 Gmc Sierra 1500

[teachmeauto]

Had to replace the brake pads and rotors on my dad's 2001 GMC Sierra 1500. Here is what I used and the process I followed. Maybe it will help someone else out there

 

Jack

Jack Stands (Qty 2)

Wheel Chocks (Qty 2)

Brake Pads

Brake Rotors (Qty 2)

Brake Parts Cleaner

New Brake Hardware Kit (optional)

High Temp Caliper Grease

Threadlock

7/8 Socket and Ratchet to remove lug nuts

18mm Socket and Ratchet to remove the caliper bolts

10mm line wrench to loosen the bleeder screw

C-Clamp or disc brake spreader to compress caliper piston

Wire or bungee cord to tie up caliper

Screwdriver (flat head)

Needle Nose Pliers

T55 Star Socket

Torque Wrench

Hose Clamp / Pinch Pliers to pinch the brake line (Sears Part # KDT3792)

Dot 3 brake fluidSafety Glasses

Brake Bleeder Kit[/color][/size][/font]

 

Step By Step Procedure

 

1) Apply Emergency Brake

2) Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires

3) Remove Center Cap on wheel to access lug nuts.

4) Break loose lugs on both front tires by loosening about ¼ to ½ turn.

5) Jack up vehicle.

6) Position jack stands on frame. NEVER CRAWL UNDER A VEHICLE ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK

7) Lower vehicle on jack stands.

8) Remove all 6 lug nuts on both front wheels.

9) Remove wheels and slide under vehicle.

10) Using a T55 star socket, loosen an remove the caliper guide pin bolts,. Loosen and remove both the top and bottom.

11) Apply hose clamp pliers to brake line.

12) Remove dust cover and loosen bleeder screw using the 10 mm line wrench.

13) Place a pan under the caliper to catch any brake fluid hat is discharged from the bleeder screw. You could also attach a plastic hose with a brake bleeder kit to capture the discharged fluid.

14) Place one side of the c-clamp on the outside brake pad, and the other on the back of the caliper and tighten the c clamp. As you tighten the c-clamp, fluid should be discharged from the bleeder screw.

15) Remove the caliper and tie it up with wire or bungee cord.

16) Remove brake pads.

17) Remove caliper bracket mounting bolts using the 18 mm socket and ratchet.

18) Remove caliper bracket.

19) If equipped, remove the press-fit metal washers installed from the factory.

20) Remove the rotor.

21) Slide the new rotor on the wheel studs and secure temporarily with 1 lug nut.

22) Use brake parts cleaner to remove any oil and grease from the new rotor.

23) Apply thread lock both the caliper bracket mounting bolts.

24) Properly position caliper bracket and secure with caliper bracket bolts. Torque to 129 ft lbs.

25) Install new brake hardware or use your existing hardware.

26) Install inner and outer brake pads.

27) Apply high-temp caliper grease to the back of the inner and outer pads.

28) Use an old brake pad and c-clamp to push the caliper piston back flush with the base of the caliper.

29) Position the caliper over the brake pads.

30) Apply high-temp caliper grease to caliper guide pin bolts.

31) Re-install caliper guide pin bolts and tighten to 74 ft lbs.

32) Tighten the bleeder screw and re-install dust cover.

33) Remove hose clamp pliers.

34) For the opposite side, repeat steps 10-33.

35) Add fluid to master cylinder and fill to full mark.

(36) To bleed the brakes, begin with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.

(37) Remove the dust cover and Install your 8mm line wrench on the bleeder screw and install the brake bleeder kit hose over the bleeder screw.

(38) Have a partner depress the brake pedal fully to the floor.

(39) While the brake pedal is held to the floor, loosen the bleeder screw. You will see brake fluid with tiny air bubbles in the clear hose of the brake bleeder kit.

(40) Tighten the bleeder screw. Then your partner can release the pedal.

(41) Repeat steps 38, 39 and 40 until there are no air bubbles in the brake bleeder kit hose

(42) Once there are no air bubbles in the hose, make sure the bleeder screw is tight, the check the brake fluid lever in the Master Cylinder. Add fluid to bring to the full mark.

(43) Move to the other side and repeat steps 39 – 42.

(44) Tighten the bleeder screw and put the dust cover back on.

(45) Check the brake fluid in the Master Cylinder and add fluid to the full mark.

(46) Reinstall both front wheels and the 6 lug nuts on each. Tighten with a 7/8

47) Jack up the vehicle, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle.

48) Torque the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern. Torque an"](to 129 ft lbs.

(49) Re-install center caps – gently tap with a rubber mallet if necessary.

(50) Remove the wheel chocks from behind both rear wheels.

(51) Test the vehicle to make sure it stops. Also check for any brake fluid leaks

[flhusa1]

only thing you did not do was open the bleeder screws before pushing the pistons in. this is supposed to keep from messing up the antilock sensors. guess you got away with it so no big deal.

[teachmeauto]

only thing you did not do was open the bleeder screws before pushing the pistons in. this is supposed to keep from messing up the antilock sensors. guess you got away with it so no big deal.

 

 

I think step 12 was supposed to cover that...or at least that was the intent - LOL.

 

Thanks

[the hammer]

I have never opened up the bleeder screw to push the pistons back in, EVER.

 

There is no need to mess with the bleeder screw until you bleed the lines after you get all the other stuff done. Bleed brakes last. As a matter of fact, you might as well bleed all 4 brakes while you are at it just to change out the fluid in the entire system and be done with it.

[dlstewart01]

I have never opened up the bleeder screw to push the pistons back in, EVER.

 

There is no need to mess with the bleeder screw until you bleed the lines after you get all the other stuff done. Bleed brakes last. As a matter of fact, you might as well bleed all 4 brakes while you are at it just to change out the fluid in the entire system and be done with it.

 

If you don't bleed 1st...you will push contaminated fluid up into the Anti lock brake module when you compress the piston...

[txab]

I have never opened up the bleeder screw to push the pistons back in, EVER.

 

There is no need to mess with the bleeder screw until you bleed the lines after you get all the other stuff done. Bleed brakes last. As a matter of fact, you might as well bleed all 4 brakes while you are at it just to change out the fluid in the entire system and be done with it.

 

If you don't bleed 1st...you will push contaminated fluid up into the Anti lock brake module when you compress the piston...

 

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