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Advice For A Stereo/sub Install On A 07 Silverado Extended Cab


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#1 CxMedia

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 11:02 PM

Hey, I'm installing a stereo in a Chevy Silverado '07 Extended Cab for the first time.

Are there any good audio installation guides for installing setups in general?

Im most curious about getting the actual car apart. I was searching for disassembly guides, but couldnt find any. I created in the GM Tech thread a thread asking if anyone knew of any good guides for taking 07 silverados apart.

Do you have any advice or links that would help me when I start the project this weekend?

Experience: Electrical Engineer major. First car installation.

Parts:

500W Amplifier
2x 6.5 240W Speaker
2x 10" RMS Single Loaded Sub
Antenna Adapter
Chevy Deck Converter
KDHDR60 JVC Single Deck Stereo
Deck Hookup Kit
Amp Power Kit


Thanks!! Looking forward to the new setup!

#2 CxMedia

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 04:12 AM

Just real quick. Stupid question, but just want to confirm.

Can anyone tell me the order Im supposed to hook everything up with? Is everything supposed to connect to the amp, or is only the subwoofer supposed to connect to the amp.

I was thinking it was either like this:
Head Unit->Amp->(Sub)&(Front Speakers)&(Rear Speakers)
http://zenn.tripod.com/jazz/system.gif

Or Like this:
Head Unit->(Front Speakers)&((Amp)->(Subwoofer)&(Rear Speakers)
http://www.nax.com.a...FAQ/Layout4.PNG

The Deck has: Sub Out (Left and Right), Front Line Out (Left and Right).
The Amp has: Audio In (Left and Right), Speaker Out (Left and Right)


Thanks! Once I get the order setup and figure out how to remove the deck, I should be good!

#3 CxMedia

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 12:08 PM

Hey, I forgot to mention.

The amp is a MRP-M500. Mono Power Amplifier with a channel 1 (left) and channel 2 (right) input in the back.

#4 CxMedia

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 03:49 AM

i got the door and deck off earlier today but it got dark, so i stopped. ill finish it tomorrow.

I have pictures of the parts im unsure of. mainly from my amp power kit and something called a stereo replacement interface. i REALLY wish there was someone near me that could do this, but sadly i live in an isolated area. anywho, let me see if i got this right. Correct me if im wrong if you dont mind.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0068.JPG

^Above is a picture of my amp kit. The blue wire looks like the wire I run to my battery from my amp. I'll most likely have to find the 'firewall' on the truck and drill a small hole, making sure i dont drill through the wrong spot. then hook it up. the clear wire looks like the remote wire? I run that from my deck to amp. The Black Kicker box goes in my hood somewhere, near the battery.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0069.JPG

^Above is the stereo replacement kit they gave me. Not sure what to do with this. My guess is that if something doesnt git behind the deck, use the connectors to convert it? There looks like a box with a speaker on it as well. weird.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0076.JPG

^Above is just for reference. Its the back of my deck. Not sure which one is the 'remote' though. Speakers hookup in the 16 pinned one. Sub in the sub out, nothing in the front line out. then hook whatever wires were hooked up in the factory deck into this one.

#5 jdubya

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 08:21 AM

Just real quick. Stupid question, but just want to confirm.

Can anyone tell me the order Im supposed to hook everything up with? Is everything supposed to connect to the amp, or is only the subwoofer supposed to connect to the amp.

I was thinking it was either like this:
Head Unit->Amp->(Sub)&(Front Speakers)&(Rear Speakers)
http://zenn.tripod.com/jazz/system.gif

Or Like this:
Head Unit->(Front Speakers)&((Amp)->(Subwoofer)&(Rear Speakers)
http://www.nax.com.a...FAQ/Layout4.PNG

The Deck has: Sub Out (Left and Right), Front Line Out (Left and Right).
The Amp has: Audio In (Left and Right), Speaker Out (Left and Right)


Thanks! Once I get the order setup and figure out how to remove the deck, I should be good!


Not trying to be an Ahole but my recommendation is to put down your tools, put the truck back into a somewhat drivable condition and take it to your nearest reputable car audio shop to have them install it for you. It will save you a lot of money in the long run.... I deal with this at my shop a lot, DIY is not for everyone....

You cannot run all of the speakers in the car off of a Mono Amp, you are going to blow it up. The definition on Mono means one channel meaning it will only power the sub.
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NCD Customs 2.5" Leveling Kit, 3" ReadyLift Rear Block Kit | 20% Front Window Tint | Fold-A-Cover G4 Elite Tonneau Cover | Kennwood Double DIN Navi/Multimedia System with MB Quart Component Speakers

#6 CxMedia

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 12:48 PM

no, i understand perfectly.

I live in greensville, tx. I had the products shipped to me. There arent any shops around that do this, so Im out of luck unless I want to drive 3 hours to the next big town. i dont mind learning.

#7 asilverblazer

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 04:35 PM

The adapter will plug into harness from truck, then the actual adapter module, then the adapter module will have a harness that you must match up to the headunit harness.

Your regular speakers are independent of the amplifier.

The amplifier will have a large cable from the battery, a large cable to ground. Likely a set of RCA cables from headunit to amplifier. Speaker wire from amp to subs. There will be a small wire from either the adapter harness or head unit harness for amp remote on signal to amplifier to turn on the amp.

Antennae adapter from factory ant. to headunit. Rember the flow of the sound, out of the head unit in to amp or speaker, out of amp in to sub. Head units out puts go into amp inputs...
1955 Chevrolet 4400 1 1/2ton Stake Bed
2007 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab LT Z-71 5.3L 4x4 BLACK
Signal Mirrors, Chrome Covers, Chrome Door Handles, Painted Bow-Ties, Painted Mirror Housings, Painted Tailgate Handle Bezel, Chrome Tailgate Handle, Leveling Kit, Kenwood DDX616 Headunit, Infinity 6022i speakers powered by Alpine Amp, Alpine Subs powered by Alpine Amp, Tinted Windows, Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller, Dale Jr. Cannons, Dueler A/T Revos

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#8 asilverblazer

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 04:42 PM

Above is a picture of my amp kit. The blue wire looks like the wire I run to my battery from my amp. I'll most likely have to find the 'firewall' This is the metal wall bettween the passenger compartment and engine bay on the truck and drill a small hole, making sure i dont drill through the wrong spot. then hook it up. the clear wire looks like the remote wire? I run that from my deck to amp YES. The Black Kicker box goes in my hood somewhere, near the battery. Black kicker box is a fuse holder you can put it near the battery.

Above is the stereo replacement kit they gave me. Not sure what to do with this. My guess is that if something doesnt git behind the deck, use the connectors to convert it? There looks like a box with a speaker on it as well. weird. This will allow your onstar, warning chimes, turn signals all to still work, this is important so follow directions on how to hook it up.

Above is just for reference. Its the back of my deck. Not sure which one is the 'remote' though. Remote is in the harness provided with the deck, or in the conversion kit above. Speakers hookup in the 16 pinned one. Sub in the sub out, nothing in the front line out. then hook whatever wires were hooked up in the factory deck into this one. Not exactly, you are connecting wires to the conversion harness as you call it. Do not cut any factory wires or you'll be in a real pickle if you mess it up, you won't be able to return to stock or finish the new install.

Edited by asilverblazer, 22 October 2010 - 04:43 PM.

1955 Chevrolet 4400 1 1/2ton Stake Bed
2007 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab LT Z-71 5.3L 4x4 BLACK
Signal Mirrors, Chrome Covers, Chrome Door Handles, Painted Bow-Ties, Painted Mirror Housings, Painted Tailgate Handle Bezel, Chrome Tailgate Handle, Leveling Kit, Kenwood DDX616 Headunit, Infinity 6022i speakers powered by Alpine Amp, Alpine Subs powered by Alpine Amp, Tinted Windows, Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller, Dale Jr. Cannons, Dueler A/T Revos

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#9 CxMedia

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 02:49 PM

thanks silverblazer. i knew exactly what to do because of what you helped me with.

Okay. I got everything almost installed. The only thing I have left to do is hookup the receiver, run the RCA cable to the amp, then run the RCA cable from the amp to the two subs.

I have a quick question though. Each sub has a left and right input. So thats four total RCA inputs (2 left and 2 right). The Receiver only has a left out and right out to the sub (Red and white). How do you suggest I hook them up?

is it okay to only use the left of the left subwoofer, and the right of the right sub? Or should I split them all.

#10 CxMedia

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 11:32 PM

Did a bit more wiring and the hiding of wires. All I have left is to hookup speaker wires from my amp to my subs (Should I combine the positive from one sub and the positive from the other sub to the one positive out of the amp?)

And.... to find out whats wrong with my hookup. When I have the receiver's bass (no sub is hooked up), at normal, there's a cracking/popping sound when listening to audio. It pops at a higher frequency if I turn the volume louder or turn the bass up. Im thinking of taking it to the closest auto store and seeing if they can figure out whats wrong (if they charge under 20.00)

any ideas?

#11 CxMedia

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 12:06 AM

Here's some specs/pics/data/audio:

Amp: Alpine MRP-M500
Per channel output into 4 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 300Wx1
Per channel output into 2 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 500Wx1
Input Inpedance: RCA IN: 20k ohms | SP IN: 40K ohms
Frequency Response: 20-200Hz

Sub (2): Kicker TC10--C
Normal Impedance: 4ohm
Sensitivity: 93.8dB
Power Handling Watts, Peak: 300 (150) RMS

Receiver: JVC KD-HDR60

Audio (Of Popping from my iPhone):


Pics: (It was too dark outside to get good sub pics, so I took a pic of the box)
Sub Box:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_80.JPG
My Receiver Hookup:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_77.JPG
Amp Cables:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_79.JPG

#12 CxMedia

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 03:44 PM

okay, having the car's popping issue looked at by a friend. then when i get it back in a few hours, going to try and hookup the amp and sub. hopefully no issues.

do you think there will be a issue of power difference bc my amp is 500w (or 300w i think in4ohms?), and my subs are 300 (150) RMS?

I wonder how I should wire it.

#13 CxMedia

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 10:50 PM

okay. we fixed the sound popping issue. turns out it was a bad adapter that came with the speakers. The factory tweeters his/pop only at real high volumes, so im thinking of just disabling those.

but my problem now is my subs. i tried testing only one sub hooked to the amp, and it seems like it barely comes on. my rear factory speakers produce more bass than than sub. am i screwed because the subs dont match the amp? Or do I just have to hookup both subs for it to work.

#14 CxMedia

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 12:09 AM

oh my god! someone pm'd me and helped me fix it! thanks!!

I took the amp ground off the seat bolt and held it to the door latch on the side of the car, and it stayed on! I turned the volume up and I could hear bass!! It was awesome! Turns out it was that after all. All I have to do now is fine a place to ground it. Every bolt and piece of metal inside the car (what i had it hooked up to before), has a white paint coat over it. Im guessing that takes away the grounding. So not sure what to do from there.

And does anyone know anything about this? I dont know how. Not sure if I blew it doing all this, or did it a while back, but my rear left speaker doesnt work. Can I use the front speaker I used to use (factory), and hook it to the back? Or are the rear speakers different than the front?

So all the questions I have left for now (bc im hard to understand sometimes)
1.) So my sub and amp setup is good? Someone had pm'd me it wouldnt work. Heres his PM:

Ooohhh its kind of a mismatch there. That amp is too much for them subs. You need 2 subs with bout 300w RMS. That amp can either run 500w or 150w to both subs. If you hook them up at 2 ohms this will put out 500w RMS and thats too much for them subs.

If you hook up them subs in parallel that would put a 2 ohm load which would make the amp put out 500w RMS, the subs are only rated 300w total RMS together.

If you hook up them subs in series, it adds resistance or OHMS. Since I am assuming you have single voice coil subs, this would put them at an 8 ohm load which would be about 150w. Only way to work it to put a 4 ohm load is if the subs have dual voice coils at 2 ohms each. Thats what I mean when you shop around for sub equipment you gotta match it close so you can work with it.

2.) Any suggestions on how to find a good spot to ground my amp? The amp HAS to go under my front seat, and the ground cable is about 3 ft long.
3.) Can I use my front factory speaker in the back? Do you know anything about that?

Thanks a lot! I imagine Ill run across another problem tomorrow, but hopefully not. I'ld appreciate it if you could help me then too if I do run across something again.

#15 stevenduchnych

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 02:03 PM

Use the seat bolt use sandpaper to remove paint around stud first. In my opinion stock speakers are better for rears and only upgrade fronts. What I came across was I put alpine s type in front sounded great! So I put them in the back too but lost some sound volume because stock speakers are easy to power and now I need a amplifier to power my door speakers.

Edited by stevenduchnych, 25 October 2010 - 02:19 PM.





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