Jump to content


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


Philips HID 9006 Headlight Conversion, 2002 Envoy

Recommended Posts

Product Name: 6000K, 9006 HID (High Intensity Discharge) Headlight Conversion

Manufacturer: Philips

Purchased: xenondepot.com

Cost: $550.00 Plus $19.99 Shipping and Handling

Skill Level: MEDIUM

Total Installation time: about 2.0 hours

Overall Rating: 9.0


Let me start by saying that even though pictures are worth a thousand words, the pictures I have posted, for the most part, do not even begin to demonstrate how well this kit works. The light output and whiteness are incredible. I almost don't need my highbeams anymore and when I do use them they look really yellow.  All pictures can be found at http://community.webshots.com/user/mcali17. While I was able to combine some of the comparison pictures, you may have to look at the Halogen and HID albums seperately.


At first the kit was relatively easy to install. The 2002 Envoy has a strange headlight setup. There is a main power connection to the headlight assembly. Then inside the headlight assembly, individual connections to the 9006 and 9005 bulbs. See pictures http://community.webshots.com/user/mcali17.


My brother Chris, ASE mechanic and automotive genius (He restored a 1967 Chevy Camaro RS SS 396 from the ground up all by himself at the age of 18, paint included), helped me with the install.


It has been said before, but the hardest part of this installation is finding a place to mount the ballasts and relays. We chose a spot on the back of the headlight buckets with the headlight assemblies removed. We just drilled some holes in the plastic and secured them with nuts and bolts.


Then it was just a matter of making a slit in the back of the headlight assembly covers, they are made out of rubber, to run the wire from the relay to the original headlight connector for the halogen bulb, and from the HID bulb to the ballast. We used some form-a-gasket to seal up the slit and a little duct tape to provide support after it had dried. The last connections run from the ballast to the relay and from the relay to the battery. We did the passenger side first as it was farthest from the battery.


We removed the grille and ran the wires for the battery connection along an existing wire harness, and secured with zip ties. We ended up taking some of the wire from the driver's side battery connections, and cutting it off and using it to extend the passenger side battery connections as the wire was not long enough, and we had plenty left over on the driver's side. We also had to change the side mount battery connections with ones that had posts on the back of the terminals. This allowed us an easy connection to the battery.


The last thing we had to do was drill out a fairly large hole in the headlight bucket. This allowed us to easily run the wires to and from the headlight assembly through the cover and to the ballast and relay. There is not enough room between the back of the headlight assembly and the headlight bucket to run the wires. It is quite a tight fit.


Once everything was connected we tested the HIDs they worked great when the headlights were on. But and here is a big BUT, when the DRLs (Daytime Running Lamps) or perimeter lighting is activated with the keyless entry, the relays made a loud humming noise and the HIDs had this weird strobe effect. After talking with my brother, another GM mechanic and our own CARGURU and GNATGOSPLAT from this forum, it was determined that the DRLs work on a voltage known as Pulse Width Modulated. What happens is that when your DRLs are on; instead of being on at a reduced voltage say 9 volts. 0 volts and then 13 volts are sent to the headlights at a very high rate. This gives a voltage that is around 9 or so volts and the halogen headlights are very forgiving so they appear to be on at a reduced voltage. The relay, however, sees the 0 and 13 volt alternating voltage as an on/off. So the relay switches on and off with the current, which causes my HIDs to almost strobe.


The solution? Once again Carguru and Gnatgosplat, came up with the addition of a capacitor connected to the wires that come from the original headlight connector to the relay. This 1000uF, 25V capacitor, basically modulates out the 0V, 13V pulse and only provides 13V to the relay when either the DRLs or Perimeter lighting are activated.


These were installed by just peeling back the + and - wires coming from the original headlight assembly going to the HID relay, twisting the wire leads from the capacitor around the wires, making sure polarity was correct, and soldering them in. We then taped the connections up, and taped the capacitor to the wires to prevent the solder joints from coming free due to vibration.


This did the trick. Now whenever my DRLs or Perimeter lighting are activated, my HIDs come on full strength.


The capacitors cost and additional $1.42 each, I only need two, one for each side, but I bought four just in case something happened. I was also charged $5.00 for having an order under $25.00 and about $10.00 in shipping.


I have to say that Xenondepot.com did get back to me with an alternate solution to my problem. But I liked the capacitor idea better. Plus, Xenondepot.com refunded me an additional $25.00 to help pay for the capacitors and my aggravation.


Overall I would say this is a good investment. Like I said before, the light output is excellent and dark roads become bright as day.


I would say that if you are only interested in the HID look and don't care about the actual performance the Piaa 3800K Platinum and most likely the Piaa 4100K Extreme White Plus bulbs are good alternatives to achieving the color at a lower price. But there is no beating the real thing. I would also like to strongly suggest, that if you do decide to purchase an HID system, make sure that the power provided to the ballasts comes directly from your battery and not through the factory harness.


I want to thank my brother Chris, Carguru and Gnatgosplat from this forum, and also Steve and Itay from Xenondepot.com for all of their help with this installation. If anyone wants more information, or has specific questions, please send me an email and I will be glad to help anyway I can. I hope this information helps someone to decide to purchase or not to purchase an aftermarket HID system for his or her vehicle.

:thumb:  :cheers:  :)  :chevy:

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just as a side note. The headlights for a 2002 Envoy list for around $300 each. Combined with the $150 HID bulbs, my headlights now cost almost $1000. To help protect my "investment" I ordered a set of custom fit, clear X-Pel headlight protectors. They are 40 mil thick covers that are made out of a high impact resistant polymer material that covers the entire headlight. They come with a 120 day money back guarantee, and a four year $1000 warranty against any damage to the headlight. This should also help to keep the headlight clear, as with all the sand and salt they use on the roads here in the northeast, I have seen other clear, reflector style headlights become foggy, almost like they have been sanded. Cost for these with shipping was about $52.00.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.