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92 K1500 5.7 Intake Gasket Replacement


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#1 osunumberone

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 11:05 PM

I've searched the forum for an hour or so and most of what I find is info on 96 and newer vortec engines...

My Dad and I plan to do the intake gaskets on his truck and mine as they both are leaking on the front drivers side of the intake. 2nd time to change the gaskets in his truck. First time he used GM gaskets and RTV. (4 or more years back)

Few questions we had:

Are the Felpro and GM gaskets equivalent or is one superior?

Have there been any changes to the gaskets through the years like there was on the Vortec gaskets?

Should Intake erosion be a concern If we have let the leaks go for an extended period of time? (1 year maybe?) What I mean by this...is there a chance the intake may not seal due to some of the aluminum being wore off from the stream of coolant?

We plan to use the GM 12378521 engine sealant...

Any advice or shared knowledge is appreciated.



#2 GMstrong

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 07:42 AM

I only use fel-pro gaskets.Theres no change in the tbi intake manifold gasket.But you should always get the one your trucks cause for.DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF LIQUID GASKETS!..
1995 Chevy Caprice 9C1 5.7L,4L60E,3:08's 134,000(Sold)
1990 GMC Sierra SLE C1500 5.7L/700R4,3:42's 300,000(Sold)
1999 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 5.3L/4L60E,3:73's 157,800
2000 GMC Sierra SL C2500 5.7L/4L80E,3:73's 188,600 check out youtube.com/youngerprice for exhaust vids!
1985 Chevy K5 5.7L/SM465/NP208,156,000(Sold)

#3 ChevyTech77

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 09:13 AM

The GM gaskets are usually the same exact gasket as the Fel-Pro's but you can most likely get the Fel-Pro's cheaper.
The GM or Permatex Ultra Black sealer is the right stuff to use on the block end rails. Make sure you clean the rails of sealer good and then wipe them down very good with brake clean and a rag. Sealer doesn't stick to surfaces with oil residue on them and if you don't clean the block rails with brake clean, the sealer won't stick.

Mark the intake and distributor base with a chisel and then the rotor to the distributor with tape so you don't have to fight with setting the timing. (As long as it is correct before you start.)

Make sure you set the intake back down as level as you can so that you don't scrape the back block rail sealer off by trying to get the manifold down and back in at an angle. (Giving the fuel lines a little tweak towards the bulkhead helps by giving you some more room with this.)

I believe there has been minor changes to the gaskets over the years but nothing hugely significant that comes to mind off the top of my head.

Intake manifold erosion can be an issue. If it looks questionable, go get another one.

Do yourself a favor and get a new heater line quick connect fitting from the parts store, while you're there. You'll be happy that you did.

Don't forget to change the oil and filter before you fire it up for the first time after your done. :P
Chevy tough.
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Every screw up is an opportunity not to make another one.

#4 olibert

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 04:24 PM

I would use the Felpro Permadry gaskets if available for your year. I used it for an intake manifold gasket replacement a couple years ago. They have a metal core instead of the cheap and failure prone plastic design.

#5 ChevyTech77

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 04:42 PM

I would use the Felpro Permadry gaskets if available for your year. I used it for an intake manifold gasket replacement a couple years ago. They have a metal core instead of the cheap and failure prone plastic design.



92 K engines never had a plastic carrier intake gasket.
Chevy tough.
Anytime baby!

Every screw up is an opportunity not to make another one.




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