2011 5.3l Oil Pressure Low?
Posted 10 April 2011 - 08:56 PM
Posted 10 April 2011 - 09:04 PM
I run Mobil 5000 for comparison.
Looking forward to hearing replies as well!
2001 Dutchmen 28BH-SSL
'98 Arctic Cat ZL500 for sale! 5k mi, clean, good running sled! $1300
Posted 10 April 2011 - 09:12 PM
Posted 10 April 2011 - 09:42 PM
Posted 10 April 2011 - 10:34 PM
2006 Windveil Blue Mustang GT Convertible, 5-spd man
2003 White Mazda MPV
1999 Pewter Z28 6-spd man
2007 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100
2007 Honda Interceptor RWB
Posted 10 April 2011 - 11:35 PM
2012 GMC Terrain
Posted 11 April 2011 - 04:06 AM
Sold- 2010 Sierra BB tune, 14" magnaflow 14419, k&n drop-in filter, 2" rough country level and 3" rough country rear blocks with 295/70r17 Nitto Terra Grappler, Rhino lined, Firestone Ride-rite airbags
Posted 11 April 2011 - 05:15 AM
Posted 11 April 2011 - 07:03 AM
Posted 11 April 2011 - 07:34 AM
as a side note...I'm planning on dealers doing all oil changes so if "somthing" happens, oil maintenance is not an issue.
* I know some will post saying "as long as You do it at proper intervals,use approved oil, log it and save money. I'd rather pay a dealer and leave NO questions about that particular maintenance.
Posted 11 April 2011 - 09:36 AM
Edited by Maverick Z71, 11 April 2011 - 09:38 AM.
Posted 11 April 2011 - 08:09 PM
Posted 11 April 2011 - 09:43 PM
Thanks for all the replys. I guess I will mention the oil pressure to the mechanic next time I am at the dealer. I wonder how low the oil pressure has to be to trigger the warning light? I am not going to let it bother me. My voltmeter gauge definitely is either way above 14 volts or way below but that doesnt bother me because my 07 did that and never gave me any trouble. I guess this truck is just different than my previous truck. Thanks again for all the great replys.
In the old days, 10 to 14 psi would turn the light on (dodge was 14, ford was 10, did not work at GM dealer). General rule of thumb in a racing engine though is 10 pounds per 1000 rpm.
Posted 12 April 2011 - 02:41 AM
I'm used to driving old Ford trucks, and on those, it seems like the gages always read the same numbers if it's running, unless something is wrong.
Ford's gauges (and many other manufacturers) don't move because they don't give you the actual reading. They stay in the middle to make you feel good. It's not until something is way out of line that they then rapidly move one way or another.
GM's gauges on the other hand tend to show a more realistic reading that varies with engine speed and temperature.
Posted 12 April 2011 - 11:16 AM
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users