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RyanbabZ71

How-To: Replace Door Lock Actuator GMT900 Tahoe.

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This was done on my 2008 Tahoe. Drivers side Front and Rear.

 

Just as a disclaimer if you dont have any clue what you are doing please take it to a trained professional

 

Time to replace both: 1 hr 45 min (7 min to remove front door panel :) )

 

Temp: 98 degree in garage :(

 

Part Numbers (for 2008 Tahoe)

 

The drivers front part#25811735

The drivers rear part#25876389

 

* Check with the dealership to make sure you have the correct part

 

Tools Used

Small Screwdriver

Door Trim Tools (Plastic, can be seen in photos they are blue). Harbor freight has them pretty cheap

10mm socket, extension and ratchet

Plyers

Flashlight

T27 Bit (I used a 1/4 adapter and dewalt drill also)

 

Step 1

 

Remove Door panels

 

1st remove

Plastic piece behind the door handle

Another plastic piece behind the door grab handle

Door Lock (plastic piece on top of door trim)

Window switches - and unplug

 

This will expose 2, 10mm bolts. Remove these

 

 

tn_gallery_56_2054_1097482.jpg

 

 

Next take the trim tool and pryer in between the door panel and door itself to pop the door panel off

 

 

tn_gallery_56_2054_1161716.jpg

 

 

 

tn_gallery_56_2054_1124635.jpg

 

Step 2 - Locate Actuator and work to start removing it

 

1st remove the clip inside the door panel (in the photo it is yellow). It is connected to a threaded rod

tn_gallery_56_2054_237661.jpg

 

 

 

Then remove the clips (yellow) that are attached to the door, again I used the trim tools

 

 

tn_gallery_56_2054_789797.jpg

Next pull the actuator out. It will still be attached to the door panel. There are two ways to do this. The door lock had a rod that is bent and goes into a small hole, you can leave it in and remove the entire rod or unhook it and leave it hang inside the door. I did it both ways, neither has an advantage I see. This can be seen in the next photo, it is the long rod. Once you get it close to coming out you need to remove the electrical connector.

 

 

tn_gallery_56_2054_616753.jpg

 

The next step I didnt get any photos because I was fighting trying to remove the cable and ball from the plastic holder. I didnt want to break the plastic so I took my time. The 1st time took much longer (10 min?) then the second (maybe 2 mins)

 

In the instructions I have it states to remove this second but it seemed to be easier attached to the panel because I could lay it down)

 

I will try and scan some manual documents also. Basically after you get to this point, reverse and install the new actuator. Hope this helps someone. I will probably add some more info in the coming days also

 

With the forum software change the photos went missing. I added some back but I kind of forgot exactly which photos I used. I added some photos in my gallery also check those out.

Edited by RyanbabZ71
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I just had to replace my passenger side front one last weekend. Took less me about 30 minutes to do.

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Great write-up. Thanks for the info. I'm sure many people will find it useful. This will be very similar for Silverado and Sierra trucks 2007-2011.

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Great write-up. Thanks for the info. I'm sure many people will find it useful. This will be very similar for Silverado and Sierra trucks 2007-2011.

 

Should be identical. The door panel may be slightly different in the trucks but everything else should be identical

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ran into a snag this morning. Went to roll the drivers side window down and it went halfway and stopped. Seems like it is hanging up on something. I think one of the wire harnesses is in the way. Make sure to check all functions work (besides door locks) before closing it all up.

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ran into a snag this morning. Went to roll the drivers side window down and it went halfway and stopped. Seems like it is hanging up on something. I think one of the wire harnesses is in the way. Make sure to check all functions work (besides door locks) before closing it all up.

 

 

Your cable to the inside door handle is in the way. I almost did that when I installed mine last weekend.

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ran into a snag this morning. Went to roll the drivers side window down and it went halfway and stopped. Seems like it is hanging up on something. I think one of the wire harnesses is in the way. Make sure to check all functions work (besides door locks) before closing it all up.

 

 

Your cable to the inside door handle is in the way. I almost did that when I installed mine last weekend.

 

 

Nope, it was the wiring harness that goes to the actuator. I have photos on my phone and I will post once I download them off there.

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1st photo is the wrong way to do it and the 2nd photo is the correct way. The wire harness and door actuator should go towards the door panel not behind it like I had it

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IMG_0317.JPG

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IMG_0317.JPG

IMG_0318.JPG

IMG_0317.JPG

IMG_0318.JPG

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1st photo is the wrong way to do it and the 2nd photo is the correct way. The wire harness and door actuator should go towards the door panel not behind it like I had it

 

Ryan, thanks for the posts. I have had the dealer replace three failed actuators since I bought my 2008 Silverado Crewcab used two years ago. The dealer tells me this is a known problem but replacement actuators should be more reliable. I have three Camry's at my home, all with over 100K miles and no actuator door failures. The Silverado has been otherwise reliable. When my fourth actuator fails, I will fix it myself. Chevy should have had some program to fix this issue. My next truck will be a Tundra.

Edited by Baron100

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Thanks for they info Ryan.

 

My front driver side actuator went out a couple of months ago and my rear driver side just went out 2 weeks ago.

 

I just did a search for the part numbers you listed and I found out that driver front part#25811735 was superseded by part#25876386 and driver rear part #25876389 was superseded by part #20783857.

 

I was also able to find the actual parts you listed along with the prices for those parts and was comparing that amount to the price of the newer parts.

 

Old Front Driver side part # 25811735 $58.81

New Front Drive side part # 25876386 $98.40

 

Old Rear Driver side part # 25876389 $76.50

New Rear Driver side part # 20783857 $86.53

 

I was just wandering if that was the price range you paid for your parts or are this prices way too high?

 

Thanks.

 

BTW, I found this discussion online about the door lock actuator problem: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f206d4b/0

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Is there somewhere that I can find these pics (from Ryan's original post)? They don't appear to be showing up anymore and I have the same issue w/ my rear driver's side door actuator.

Edited by clubba

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Just PM him. He should be able to re-link to them. Probably got lost when they changed the forum software

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It would be great if we could get those pictures. I have all my parts (2 rear actuators) and four new door handles. Started tomorrow morning regardless. BTW, I have had 5 Suburbans and every single one has had one or more of these actuators replaced either under warranty or at my expense. This has been a long term problem for GM.

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Let me look into it this evening

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Hello Ryan

Thanks for your post and guide for the actuator replacement. I just got a quote from a dealer to repair the driver-side rear door lock actuator on my wife's 2009 Suburban. they want $377 to replace this part. That is absolutely absurd. With your help, i'll do it myself.

 

BTW, her truck is the 2500 LT 4WD 6.0L version and the fuel economy sux. My '05 F350 crew dually 6.0L diesel gets better mileage than her Chevy. Do you have any recommendations for changes, chips, or otherwise that might improve this or should we consider trading it off for something else?

 

thanks again for your most helpful post.

Lonnie

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