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Hub Assembly Removal And Replacement


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#1 BUCH 2500HD

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 06:26 AM

I have a 2003 2500HD and recently had the truck into the shop for the ABS light being on and for a humming noise at low speeds. I was told that both of my front hub assemblies were going or were bad. So I had the mechanic change the one that was supposedly in worse conidtion and it ended up costing me just under $500.00. :) The ABS light is still on and I am still hearing the humming noise. So I am curious about how difficult it would be to change the other side on my own in hopes that this would take care of the ABS light and the humming noise. I found the hub assembly at autopartdirecttoyou.com for $104.00. So if i am able to do this on my own I would sabe myself almost $400.00! Thanks for the help!

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- 2003 Silverado LT 2500HD -

6.0 w/ 4.10 Gears

2" Leveling Kit

5% Tint

Pacer Polished Rims w/ 285/75/16 Trail Digger M/T's

Full Grill Guard w/ Dual 130W KC Daylighters

3" Dual Flo Pro V-Force Exhaust w/ 4" Stainless Tips

K&N Drop In Air Filter

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#2 Stevens11

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 07:10 AM

It's a fairly easy job. There are several you-tube video's that can help :)

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#3 cvandegna

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 01:58 PM

It's pretty straightforward - did my drivers side one when I did my ball joints. Mind the speed sensor, it's easily damaged and at that price the new hub probably doesn't come with one.
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#4 ChevyTech77

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 02:28 PM

I would highly suspect the quality of any HD hub bearing that costs $100.
Chevy tough.
Anytime baby!

Every screw up is an opportunity not to make another one.

#5 sstimothy

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 10:24 AM

$104? Be suspect. I've seen them as low as $250. They run about $295 at Napa. It's an easy job, and the new speed sensor is built into the assembly, just unplug the old one at the fender skirt. The new hub will have the correct length wire and harness.
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#6 born-to-fish-

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 12:21 PM

The hardest part is getting the caliper off. The two bolts are tight!
Other than that, piece of cake
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#7 BUCH 2500HD

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 02:56 AM

I thought $104 seemed cheap too but I called APDTY and the guy told me it was the right part for my truck and it was one of his better sellers. Its made by Precision. So who knows?

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- 2003 Silverado LT 2500HD -

6.0 w/ 4.10 Gears

2" Leveling Kit

5% Tint

Pacer Polished Rims w/ 285/75/16 Trail Digger M/T's

Full Grill Guard w/ Dual 130W KC Daylighters

3" Dual Flo Pro V-Force Exhaust w/ 4" Stainless Tips

K&N Drop In Air Filter

Bully Dog Power Programmer


#8 pm26

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Posted 08 October 2011 - 10:29 PM

I thought $104 seemed cheap too but I called APDTY and the guy told me it was the right part for my truck and it was one of his better sellers. Its made by Precision. So who knows?


Probably made in China, but so are thousands of other parts nowadays.

#9 ChevyTech77

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:01 AM

I thought $104 seemed cheap too but I called APDTY and the guy told me it was the right part for my truck and it was one of his better sellers. Its made by Precision. So who knows?


Probably made in China, but so are thousands of other parts nowadays.

Timken bearings are not and are all that I will use. Never had a repeat failure.
Chevy tough.
Anytime baby!

Every screw up is an opportunity not to make another one.

#10 Paulie G

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 06:35 AM

Get a timken if your going to keep the truck for a long time. Got mine at Dmaxstore
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#11 pm26

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Posted 13 October 2011 - 01:31 PM

I thought $104 seemed cheap too but I called APDTY and the guy told me it was the right part for my truck and it was one of his better sellers. Its made by Precision. So who knows?


Probably made in China, but so are thousands of other parts nowadays.

Timken bearings are not and are all that I will use. Never had a repeat failure.

Timken bearings are not made in China? Maybe not all, but I have a yet uninstalled set for my '67 T bird axles that is.

Edited by pm26, 13 October 2011 - 01:31 PM.


#12 GMcarnut

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Posted 13 October 2011 - 02:22 PM

Buch 2500HD,

The hub assembly replacement procedure is not too difficult, granted you possess intermediate mechanical abilities and you own a decent set of tools. The basic run-down on the job is as follows:

First, you'll Remove the capscrews and washer from the hub cap, then remove the hub cap and spring. After that, you remove the bearing race, bearing and retainer. Next, you'll remove the keeper from the outer clutch housing and the large snapring to release the locking unit
from the hub. You can make this job easier by threading 2 hub cap screws into the outer clutch housing and hold these to pull out the unit.

To install the hub assembly, wipe clean all parts and check for wear or damage. Next, you'll coat all parts with the same wheel bearing grease you've used on the bearings. Install the locking unit in the hub and the large snapring. Pull outward on the unit to make sure the snapring is fully seated in its groove. After that, install the keepers, bearing retainer, bearing and race. Make sure that the bearing is fully pack with grease. Coat the hub cap O-ring with wheel bearing grease and install the hub cap.

Finally, install the cap screws and washers. Tighten the screws to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm).


The clutch housing is illustrated in the diagram below:

Posted Image
*diagram courtesy of gmpartsgiant.com; all rights reserved

#13 sstimothy

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 09:42 AM

Buch 2500HD,

The hub assembly replacement procedure is not too difficult, granted you possess intermediate mechanical abilities and you own a decent set of tools. The basic run-down on the job is as follows:

First, you'll Remove the capscrews and washer from the hub cap, then remove the hub cap and spring. After that, you remove the bearing race, bearing and retainer. Next, you'll remove the keeper from the outer clutch housing and the large snapring to release the locking unit
from the hub. You can make this job easier by threading 2 hub cap screws into the outer clutch housing and hold these to pull out the unit.

To install the hub assembly, wipe clean all parts and check for wear or damage. Next, you'll coat all parts with the same wheel bearing grease you've used on the bearings. Install the locking unit in the hub and the large snapring. Pull outward on the unit to make sure the snapring is fully seated in its groove. After that, install the keepers, bearing retainer, bearing and race. Make sure that the bearing is fully pack with grease. Coat the hub cap O-ring with wheel bearing grease and install the hub cap.

Finally, install the cap screws and washers. Tighten the screws to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
wtf? This description is no where near the procedure for a hub replacement on these trucks?

The clutch housing is illustrated in the diagram below:

Posted Image
*diagram courtesy of gmpartsgiant.com; all rights reserved


wtf?

Edited by sstimothy, 21 October 2011 - 09:43 AM.

Posted Image
06' Chevrolet Crew Cab, LT3, LBZ Dmax/Allison, 4X4
Black w/light grey interior
G80, skid plate package, towing package, sunroof, DVD, camper mirrors, 5th wheel wiring, winter covers, etc...etc...
16X8 VERDE "Boxer" Crome Plated Alloys w/Bridgestone Dueler REVO 2, 285/75 R16's

#14 steiny93

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 03:10 PM

So BUCH 2500HD;
How did the $104 hub work out? Did it include a speed sensor?

Anything to report?

#15 BUCH 2500HD

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 09:56 AM

So BUCH 2500HD;
How did the $104 hub work out? Did it include a speed sensor?

Anything to report?


I haven't got around to buying one yet. If I do here in the future I'll let you know.

Posted Image


- 2003 Silverado LT 2500HD -

6.0 w/ 4.10 Gears

2" Leveling Kit

5% Tint

Pacer Polished Rims w/ 285/75/16 Trail Digger M/T's

Full Grill Guard w/ Dual 130W KC Daylighters

3" Dual Flo Pro V-Force Exhaust w/ 4" Stainless Tips

K&N Drop In Air Filter

Bully Dog Power Programmer





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