23 answers to this question
I did a search on here for replacing the engine computer and was surprised for not finding much !
We have an 05 Silverado with a 5.3 in it. The other evening, my wife went to see a friend and when it began to storm, she decided to leave. She went out and the truck was dead, no click, no crank. I went to get her and tried to jump start it (while it was still storming) and arcs came off of the negative terminal when the cable touched it. I stopped and decided to disconnect the battery till morning. Next day I go over there and reconnect the battery and the engine fans start running with no key in the ignition (probable reason why the battery arced the night before)! Battery voltage was down to under 11 volts so I took it to get checked since it was 5 years old. Got a new one, connected it, the truck fired up, and all seemed well. Took the truck home, parked it and 2 hours later I go to leave in it and the engine fans are running again ! When I drove away, I got about a mile from the house and the check engine light started flashing. Codes that came up were P0300 and P0480, random misfire and engine cooling fan code error.
So..... I checked what I could, but then on Monday took it to an automotive electrical guy. He ran his diagnostics and while it was there, the fans came on by themselves again with no key on. He check his schematics, ran his checks and suspects the computer has some kind of fault. He said to get a salvage computer and he would re-flash it for my VIN.
I checked around and found one local, but also looked online and came across "All Computer Resources" in Miami FL that sells reprogramed ECM / ECU / PCM automotive computers.
I wasn't sure what to do, so called another electrical repair guy for another opinion. He said it could well be the computer, but would run his own checks before just replacing it. He was adamant about not using a salvage or reconditioned computer. Said he has been there, done that, and will now ONLY install new OEM replacement GM computers and flash them.
Anybody out there have good or bad luck with a reconditioned computer ? Any thoughts or suggestions ?
Gonna get right to the point by stating the facts that I do know. I have a 2001 Tahoe with a 5.3 Vortec with 165k miles. Check engine light has been coming on the past four winters. It started out a temperatures <10 degrees, and now has gradually gotten worse to <35 degrees. Same codes every time, P0171, P0174, and P0300, Lean bank 1 and 2, and random misfire. Most noticeable is rough idle, the colder it gets, the worse it is. After reaching operating temperature, it idles smooth, with plenty of power and never misses a lick. Last winter fuel pump, filter, and all lines from tank to manifold was replaced.( Due to pump quit working) Also plugs and wires was replaced. After asking around, and doing a little research, I was hoping for an easy fix by replacing the MAF unit, which also contains the IAT sensor. I have to tell ya...it didn't help.
Thank you for the add, and any help you can provide.
okay so here goes:
2005 silverado 1500 hd, 6.0 135k. Codes p2135 throttle pedal position sensor switch a/b voltage corelation, p0300 random multiple cylinder missfire detected, p0120 throttle pedal position/switch a circut. I have been fighting this isuue for the last two years and it is getting to the point I am ready to sell. I hate to do that as the truck is in overall great shape, well maintained with no other mechanical issues. As I said this issue has been going on for at least two years with some limited success for intermittent times at a resolution. I have replaced at different times all of the following all with oem ac delco parts. some of these were done due to other codes etc. throttle body, pedal postion assembly, wiring harness to the throttle body with new wires allmost going to the ecm ( did strip the old harness/plug and did come across a bad wire), the ecm, fuel injectors, cats, all 4 o2 sensors, map, mass air flow, knock seensors, plugs wires , intake gaskets, fuel pump and fill sensor, alternator, battery, I have also ran a new wire for the two grounds at the back of the block direct to ground. Currently after the ecm was replaced last, about 3 weeks ago, i have been getting this problem only upon start up at different times, hot or cold about 12 times a week. It always resets after I shut it down and wait a minute or two and I haven't had to erase the code to get it to go away. My next step short of selling the truck would be to replace the whole engine harness as I feel this must be a wire problem and trying to find that might take longer than a new harness install. I am in the Chicago area and If anyone has a reputable shop that has dealt with something like this I''d be interested in there name. Ant other reccommendations would be greatly appreciated. thank you
I have an ongoing issue I was hoping to get a few opinions on. A few weeks ago my truck started to gradually spudder when I was cruising with the RPMs jumping very slightly when it did. I did not notice it being related to transmission as it was shifting just fine so I figured ignition/timing. The check engine light came on with the error codes p0016 and p0300, camshaft/crankshaft misalignment and multiple misfires, respectively. I needed some brake work done anyway so I took it in to get serviced and they replaced the distributor rotor, cap, wires, sensor and all the coil packs. It worked fine for about a day and then the light came on. I've been working nights on a turnaround the last 2 months and just do not have time to take it in so I waited. About three days after the truck finally just died on the way home. It flashed low oil pressure/low oil level and the pressure dropped to zero as it was dying. I checked all the fluids and for leaks, everything was fine and where it should be. I had it towed to firestone (only thing that was open on the weekend). They quoted me $1300 for a new ECM and new distributor install. My truck is only work $2500-3000 and I'm coming up on paying that for repairs after the last round and this one. They said my ECM was sending commands but not receiving any and the distributor was not sending anything to the ECM.
So my questions, the ECM I can see as being a potential for replacement, but the distributor seems like it would have more tell-tale signs if the gear drive was cracked or worn. They also did not mention anything about the ICM or the timing chain, which to me seem like the most likely culprits here. I really do not want to fork over $1300 only to find out my timing chain is stretched or the gears worn and have to fork over another grand. I'm going in tomorrow to inquire, but any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
A week or so ago I noticed a ticking after my truck was warmed up at idle. Well a few days went by and my truck started to misfire as I accelerated from a stop clearing up once i got up to speed. Along with a flashing check engine light I had the codes P0300, P0455, P0306. The next day I bought a new evap solenoid canister hoping to get rid of the evap code. After installing, I still had a misfire and a ticking coming from the passenger side bank. I plugged in my code reading and watched cylinder 6 consistantly misfire at idle. After replacing the plugs, checking the injectors, coils, and wires I thought i may be having lifter problems as cylinder 6 is an AFM cylinder. I pulled the valve cover off to check for a loose or stuck rocker, everything seemed fine. I fired up the truck and the rocker arms all looked to be operating fine. The truck also didnt seem to have a rough idle and wasn't ticking. I put everything back together backed it out of the garage and it went right back to its old ways. I cant seem to figure out the problem and was wondering if anyone else has heard of this or experienced it? Seems to be worst when I put the truck in drive or reverse and hold the brake(rough idle along with a misfire.) Any help or guidence would be appriciated!
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