I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2
Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
For the LTZ 5.3 vs 6.2...looking at the 4dr 6.5bed...the mpg it shows on the window seems a little low for using AFM...what are your actual numbers you get? We'll say without towing, and with if ya got it...say you just bought it and went on the freeway for a few hundred miles and AFM was on, theres no way to get 18-20mpg, is there?
I had a couple of questions.
When i go to autozone.com and enter my vehicle there is two options for the 5.3 (7) or (0) What are the differences between the two? I have the (7) in my vin but I'm still not really sure what the differences are between the two engine codes. If there actually is a difference in performance or internal parts?
What are everyone's thoughts on disabling AFM my thought is its robbing me of some horse power and throttle response.
I know i can get a tune to disable it but i wasn't sure about the pros and cons of that. I have heard after a while the engine will start eating oil because of AFM. I only have 84000 but still.
I was also looking at getting a CAI between K&N and Volant I was leaning more towards Volant because of the closed intake box not sure if it has that much of difference but, i live in az and its dusty and when it gets muddy i don't want engine to be sucking up that water with the intake. I know the intake is not going to give me substantial amount of Hp or torque. The engine seems to breath better i have a friend with same truck and has K&N and it sounds really healthy and throaty. Pros cons on each? I have flowmaster super44 and love it I think that if i had an intake it would just sound even better.
With that i was wondering for as cheap as it is with throttle body spacer if any one has really noticed a difference.
Lastly seems like Diablotune is the way to go any other tuners that maybe a little cheaper that does all the same stuff?
Thank you in advance
Hey Guys, I have had my 2015 Sierra for a year and a half now and I cannot stand how the truck shifts through the gears. I have been researching the forums for different fixes or something to help make the truck drive smoother. Long story short, I find that the Range AFM v4 disabler is the best solution available that avoids voiding my warranty. I do not use my truck as my primary vehicle and only put about 7,000 miles on it a year, so I do not want to void my warranty far before it expires considering all the quirks, Direct injection, and other things the warranty could save me $thousands if something breaks.
I find that the truck drives around town much smoother without it going in and out of v4/v8 modes and the trans does a much better job managing city driving. So what is the major downfall of the Range AFM Disabler? It drains the battery, especially for someone like me who only drives on weekends. Between Christmas and New Years I had the time to figure something out. In our truck one of the pins in our OBD2 connector provide a constant 12v, which the RangeAFM uses for power. I came up with a relay design that only provides power to this obd2 pin only when the ignition is on, theoretically preventing the RangeAFM from draining my battery when the truck sits.
***Please beware this is a mod I decided to do to my truck and so far I have not had an issues. Modifying your own truck is your responsibility, not mine.***
Some Key points about the mod:
1. Provides the same power source as always, but only allows the OBD2 pin to access the power source when ignition is on.
2. I have an optional switch that will provide the original constant power to that pin in the OBD2 plug. The reason I did this is because I have dealer oil changes and I want everything to operate as the truck is designed to when they connect to my OBD2 port. The switch bypasses the relay control, therefore allowing factory operation. Before my dealer visits, I removed the RangeAFM, and flip the switch. You can place your switch anywhere, mine is hidden.
3. When cutting the wire from pin 16, I soldered and heat shrink my connections, and wrap it back up with the same fabric tape GM uses. The reliability of this mod depends on your ability and skills.
4. Not that this is a big deal, but when I get my GMC email/report every month it does not show there are issues since the RangeAFM is off while the truck is sitting.
Thanks again to everyone on the forms for your input that led me to this decision. When my warranty is up I cannot wait to program/tune the truck, but for now I am happy with these results.
By Ryan Bokros
Ok, so I know that there is and has been an ongoing issue with the AFM lifters sticking or collapsing entirely. I have a 2007 GMC Sierra 5.3 Flex Fuel 4X4 - 165k miles. Pretty regular maintenance, I am not OCD, but I try to do my best at around 3500 miles - full synthetic Mobil 1 oil, AC Delco Filter.
Here is my situation....
No ticking whatsoever (which I know is usually attributed to this), BUT terribly bad misfire on Cyl 4 (on the the AFM cylinders, I know) and throwing the typical 304 code with stabilitrak warning. Before pulling the valve covers, I checked EVERYTHING (well, except compression) - I checked plugs, coils, injectors, fuel and oil pressure, etc. That is what led me to go ahead and pull the valve covers to check for any slack in the rockers/valves (even though there is no noticeable tick. Initially pulling the covers, I was pleased with how clean everything was....and how tight everything was. No slack in the rockers whatsoever, from what I could tell the valve springs look good, etc!! Yay...but WTF is causing this?
Well, I fired up the truck and found that the intake valve in cyl 4 was not moving. BUT...when my wife got home, I had her turn the engine over for me so I could see it all without doing it myself. Here is what I am confused about - on start up, the valve moves...but only one time! It goes through the whole compression cycle then stops once the engine is running. If it was collapsed, it wouldn't push the valve on start up, would it? Could this be the VLOM and not the lifter? Thoughts?
Thanks from the new guy here!
Most OnlineNewest Member
Eva Nicole Sensat
Who's Online 47 Members, 0 Anonymous, 365 Guests (See full list)
- Silver ice 6.2
- Tony Wu
- Eva Nicole Sensat
- Eric Garcia
- James Aaron Payne
- Mike Sullivan