Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
opus8844

How do you turn off the AFM ? and what are the pros and cons

Recommended Posts

Will it affect MPG to much will it stop the oil usage will it stop the lugging on down shift and up shifts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No. Not necessarily. No. In order to get it the way you want it, get a custom tune and turn off the AFM. It will not affect your MPG and it will fix your sluggishness. Some people claim it fixed their oil consumption.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will it affect MPG to much will it stop the oil usage will it stop the lugging on down shift and up shifts

 

 

I've always been a fan of using the trans in manual mode to lock out higher gears on slower roads- like using M4 or M5 on local roads. 6th gear much below 50 MPH is just too low RPM for my tastes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A tool like our inTune or Trinity will allow you to disable the AFM on your 5.3 truck, while increasing power, and MOPG's at the same time :)

 

Most of our users report no significant loss of mileage when disabling AFM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i got a little mileage back after disabling afm, plus no more weird noises from my exhaust when the truck kicked in to 4cyl mode.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your thinking of a tune look no where else than black bear. love mine

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your thinking of a tune look no where else than black bear. love mine

 

+1 :thumbs:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whats the consensus on doing this for the oil consumption issue? Are most seeing oil consumption issue fixed or is it still a gamble?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whats the consensus on doing this for the oil consumption issue? Are most seeing oil consumption issue fixed or is it still a gamble?

 

 

Just posted a topic on this myself. Didn't see that it was already asked. Hopefully enough people can chime in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting a tuner is the ONLY way to shut down the AFM without running in 4th-5th gear with your rpm's through the roof. Do it the right way with a tune if you want it turned off.

Edited by BlackZ71Silverado
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, this may be my first post, although I have been reading for over a year. I never hear anyone mention PCM for Less Tuning. A few years ago I had a Hummer H3. Actually, I owned it for over 5 years. I put over $20 grand in mods and accessories but it had one weakness. It was sick, weak, no power on the highway. The Hummer forums talked about PCM for Less. They are located in Mooresville, NC and somewhere in Ohio. I took the Hummer to Mooresville on my way to Virginia to visit family. I had Alvin tune the PCM...Man what a difference it made. I know it had to be one of the best running H3's anywhere after he finished with it. It ran on the interstate like a scalded dog. The drivability factor went from a 3 to a 10 plus. I'm living in Montgomery, Alabama.

 

I tell you this to tell you I just took my 2012 Silverado Ext Cab, 5.3, 6 sp, with 308 rear gears, to PCM for Less a couple weeks ago. I got tired of poor driveability of the 6 spped. It was constantly upshifting or downshifting. Now, it runs and drives like a completely different truck. It is absolutely amazing what a PCM tune can do for increased driveability and increased fun factor. He also turned off the AFM, and adjusted for my 20 inch wheels, which I had never done, among other things such as adjusting the fuel/air mixture, and the shift points of the 6 speed.. The fuel mileage has definitely increased but I will have to drive it more before I can tell how much exactly. Just wanted to mention the PCM for Less is another viable option for performance tuning. They do have the mail order tuning, but I prefer to have mine tuned while I am driving it, so he can tune it to my specific driving style, which is a bit lead footed for a 66 year old.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I forgot I had this picture tied to my signature block. This was my 2010 rcsb 6 cylinder WT I had for two years. It was a mistake, so I upgraded to the 2012 Extended cab.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are missing out how how the trucks should REALLY feel if you didn't have your transmission (TCM) tuned...Give Black Bear Performance a call, they will take care of it. Sounds like the people you used don't really know what they are doing if they didn't tune the TCM also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By connord404
      Hello, I looked 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 that I was interested in purchasing with the 5.3L V8 has 174,000 miles. Truck runs rough at idle, rpms are fluctuating. Check engine light is on with codes P0300 and P0301. Can’t troubleshoot the problem. Coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires, new O2 sensors, new catalytic converters. Guy says that rockers all move so it isn’t Active Fuel Management lifters and he says 150 psi of compression across all 8 cylinders. Truck was at dealership, dealership says problem with cylinder numbers 1 and 8 the P0301 explains problem with cylinder 1 but why isn’t code P0308 being thrown? What else could be the problem?
    • By allblack16
      Installed a 3" Motofab level on my truck last weekend. Rear is stock. Added 20x12s with 33x12.5 tires. Minor plastic and metal trimming, no rub at all.
      Smoked my tails and 3rd brake light. Will smoke my front turn signals and corner markers this weekend.
      Will also vinyl wrap the chrome mustache on the bumper, unless someone wants to trade for all black.
      Going to do a muffler delete (leaving resonators) and clamp the flapper valve open, will also add a Range AFM delete.
      Has 30% tint now, will eventually do 15% this summer.
      Will post more pics as I make progress.







    • By roadrage201
      My 2012 Silver is one of the unfortunates to be cursed with AFM. It has 136k on it. It has gone through a quart of oil about every two weeks since I got it at 75k miles, plugs on 1, 4, 6 and 7 have to be changed about every 6 months (photos of #7 that got changed a few days ago because as usual, CLEARLY it was fouled and misfiring) and it DRINKS fuel. My average MPG's hovers around 10-11mpg..not to mention the horrible jolt it makes after cycling between 4 and 8 cylinders. Is there nothing I can do to, if nothing else, reduce the oil consumption?



    • By uconnjack
      My 2008 5.3L 4WD Avalanche with ~135K miles has recently been throwing a P0306 cylinder 6 misfire, along with a Stablitrak warning. It first happened a couple weeks ago but only lasted a day. I cleared the code and it was fine for another couple of weeks before it happened again today. It does go through a lot of oil (probably a at every 1,000 miles), and there is a clicking sound.

      I know from researching this the last couple weeks that its likely failure of the #6 cylinder lifter and/or plug fouling due to the AFM system design and/or old PCV cover. I intend on doing some diagnostics this weekend including inspecting and replacing (if needed) plugs/wires/coils, doing compression tests, and pulling off valve covers to look for stuck lifters/valves. 

      My questions are:

      1) Other than the obvious, is there anything else I should be specifically looking out for when running these tests?

      2) Are there are any other diagnostic tests I should be doing while I am in there.

      3) Assuming compression test is fine, and replacing plugs/wires stops the misfires, can I hold off on replacing a bad lifter if there is one?

      4) I would plan on getting a Range tuner to disable AFM (which I should have done when I bought the truck 3 years ago) and replacing the valve coverwith the new one. If the compression test is OK suggesting there is (currently) no ring, gasket, valve, etc. damage, would these measures stave off more issues? 

      4) If a lifter is bad and I really need to replace it now, can I just replace the one, or do I need to replace them all? Also, how difficult is it to take the passenger side head off to access the #6 lifters? 

      5) If it does fail compression, am I likely screwed and looking at a rebuild or replacement? 

      6) Any other advice, recommendations, or thoughts?

      Thanks in advance!
    • By Martiallterrain
      Hey guys I’m new to the forum but I’ve been a long time subscriber since I bought my 14 Sierra new in feb 2014. So I’ve read lots of horror stories on the site and I thought I’d tell you guys about my experience.
       
      A few weeks ago over 5r holidays, my girlfriend and I were returning a uhaul after moving and she was following in my truck, she called to say that the check engine light was on and the truck had reduced power. We dropped off the uhaul and I hopped in and could tell it was misfiring and had a rough idle. I took it to my local mechanic and he told me cylinder 4 was misfiring and he tried a coil pack but that didn’t fix it, he did a compression test and it was holding compression but he told me this was gonna be a bigger problem.
       
      luckily I still had powertrain warranty so I contacted the dealership that I bought the truck from and they had me tow it there using gm roadside. So my first hats off to gm, the lady I had on the phone from roadside assistance asked her manager to waive the tow fee as I was having it towed to my home dealership that was > than the 50 miles that they cover for free. 
       
      Once the truck made it to the dealership, it only took the. A couple of hours to figure out I had a failed lifter and broken rod for cylinder #4. Now I was freaking out because I’ve read horror stories on this site about having to argue with regional managers for warranty work this significant and I’ve heard dealerships arbitrarily saying work isn’t covered under warranty for whatever reason. Thankfully I can say  my service advisor set me up with a rental the same day and reassured me that everything would be covered by gm. He did say parts were on backorder and it would take approx 2 weeks. Almost 2 weeks to the day, truck was ready to be picked up with 0 hassle the entire time. 
       
      This is my 3rd truck with the 5.3 and the only time I’ve had a significant mechanical issue. The truck only had 85000 km (around 50k miles) sure I was PO’d that my truck was out of commission for 2 weeks but I was extremely thankful that gm stood behind their product and was able to fix the truck for me. The truck seems to run fine now but I don’t know if I will keep it as I don’t know if it will be the same or if the issue will reoccur. I do know that my next truck will definite be another Chevy or Sierra. I can’t wait to see the reveal of the new Chevy this weekend at Detroit!
       
      Jut thought I would post a positive warranty repair story and throw a kudos out to gm for making things right with me
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    195,230
    Total Topics
    2,062,921
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    163,282
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Cgilson
    Newest Member
    Cgilson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   127 Members, 1 Anonymous, 477 Guests (See full list)

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.