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Cab bushing noise?


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#1 Mike Honcho

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Posted 14 August 2012 - 03:01 PM

My 2009 crew cab is making a loud squeak when going over small bumps under 30 mph. It sounds like rubbery squeak and it sounds like it's coming from the rear of the cab. I do have leather seats but it doesn't sound like anterior noise it sounds like cab bushings. I torqued them to 74 foot-pounds but they are still noisy. Sprayed some silicone on them to see if it would quieting them down but it didn't do anything. Any ideas on how to isolate the problem or if it actually is cab bushings? Surely they aren't worn with only 43,000 miles? Is it possible I just don't have them positioned correctly after removing the Nerf bars?
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#2 CKNSLS

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Posted 14 August 2012 - 03:26 PM

My 2009 crew cab is making a loud squeak when going over small bumps under 30 mph. It sounds like rubbery squeak and it sounds like it's coming from the rear of the cab. I do have leather seats but it doesn't sound like anterior noise it sounds like cab bushings. I torqued them to 74 foot-pounds but they are still noisy. Sprayed some silicone on them to see if it would quieting them down but it didn't do anything. Any ideas on how to isolate the problem or if it actually is cab bushings? Surely they aren't worn with only 43,000 miles? Is it possible I just don't have them positioned correctly after removing the Nerf bars?


I assuming that you didn't loosen them all at once, but one at a time while you were removing the bars. On my truck (2011-Crew cab) it's supposed to 52 pounds-yours could be different. If you did remove them all at once this could have caused the cab to move a bit, causing your problem. I would probably start by installing both new bushings.

Also on some model years there was a bad weld that held the bolt in place that those big screws went up in to that held the cab/bushing in place. If that weld broke this could be causing the cab to squeak.

This is yet (as I mentioned elsewhere on this board) reasons to stay as far away as possible from the bars/steps that use the body mounts. This method is BAD NEWS.

Edited by CKNSLS, 14 August 2012 - 03:27 PM.


#3 Mike Honcho

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Posted 14 August 2012 - 05:50 PM

When removing them I took them all out of the drivers side, the bar fell off and I put them back in with an impact then did the passenger side. Surely the cab didn't move this way. After searchong about this i loosened them one at a time and tightened back to 74 lbs.How can I tell if that weld was broken? I guess I'll try 2 new bushings. Are they a dealer only part? I wish who ever put the steps on would have never done it.

Edited by Mike Honcho, 14 August 2012 - 05:51 PM.

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#4 BMG09

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Posted 14 August 2012 - 07:21 PM

Might want to check the mounting points where the bar brackets attach to cab mount bolts. Sometimes they rub there.

#5 Mike Honcho

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Posted 14 August 2012 - 08:06 PM

http://www.gmpartsdi...og/frameset.cfm

I guess I needs parts 10,9,4,7 and 8 in that diagram?
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#6 CKNSLS

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Posted 15 August 2012 - 12:47 PM

There are various warnings about using an impact wrench when working with the body bolts. This is the way the weld is most often broken on the bolts welded on to the cab. The long screws would be free spinning if you broke the weld.

Personally, I would have removed and installed the body mount screws one at a time, verses taking them all out of one side at once. The cab could have moved on that one side even though the other side was holding it on.

(Everyone else another warning-stay away from bars/steps that mount to the body bushings!) GM already has holes in the rocker panels that their steps and others mount to-use that method.

Edited by CKNSLS, 15 August 2012 - 12:48 PM.


#7 CKNSLS

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Posted 15 August 2012 - 01:00 PM

http://www.gmpartsdi...og/frameset.cfm

I guess I needs parts 10,9,4,7 and 8 in that diagram?


It looks like #8 is the bolt that is welded to the cab. You need this only if you body bushing screws are free spinning. If the weld is broken on one or more of these bolts this is a body shop or dealer fix. Some have reported that the dealer has fixed these under warranty because of the known weak weld.

Good luck!

Edited by CKNSLS, 15 August 2012 - 01:01 PM.


#8 Mike Honcho

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Posted 15 August 2012 - 05:34 PM

The impact I used Is weaker one. So the welds must be good since I was able to tighten the bolts back up? I called the dealer and they said it should be at about 50 ft lbs. im gonna take them loose and apply some whit lithium grease and then torque to 54 ft lbs.
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#9 CKNSLS

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Posted 15 August 2012 - 06:18 PM

The impact I used Is weaker one. So the welds must be good since I was able to tighten the bolts back up? I called the dealer and they said it should be at about 50 ft lbs. im gonna take them loose and apply some whit lithium grease and then torque to 54 ft lbs.


My 2011 is 52 pounds....so 50ish sounds about right. Yes, if they tighten back up the welds held. If your getting squeaks I would try new body bushings. They are certainly cheap enough. There have been reports of the body bolts actually snapping in the snow belts when the steps/bars are mounted this way due to the steel brackets the step manufacturers use due to road salt.

Edited by CKNSLS, 15 August 2012 - 06:21 PM.


#10 Mike Honcho

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 12:30 PM

181.00 for the six upper rubber pieces. Yikes! I dont see how the bottom ones could be causing noise. Plus I coated them with grease and it didnt change anything. If I take these out I just have to remove the 3 bolts from one side and then jack the cab up enough to pull out the upper portion?
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#11 CKNSLS

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 12:51 PM

Replacing the mount bushings was a suggestion. You just loosen up the screws and they come right off. You don't have to raise the cab for anything.

I guess it depends how much the squeaking bothers you.

#12 Mike Honcho

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 03:02 PM

I sprayed some silicone on all the rubber door seals and the noise is practically gone. I think it is coming from the outer seal on the very top of the doors. I will tighten the cab bolts to 54 pounds and leave it alone.
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#13 CKNSLS

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 04:18 PM

Seriously,
Go to your local Honda dealer and buy a tube of the following to grease the weather stripping around your doors-

Shin-Etsu Grease ...

The problem with Silicone is that it doesn't last. This you apply about once a year.

Be prepared...it's like $17.00/tube. Just get some cheap latex gloves and apply a very thin coat.

I have an Honda Accord that the window rubber squeaked like a chicken about to have it's head cut off.....found out about this stuff on a Honda forum.

#14 Mike Honcho

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 05:29 PM

I will do that! Thanks for your help!
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#15 pacrat1958

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 07:16 PM

Don't know if this might help or not....but worth a look.


TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 11-08-61-002B
Date: October 20, 2011
Subject: Squeak or Creak Noise from Underbody over Bumps (Replace Body Cables)
Models:
1999-2011 Chevrolet Silverado
1999-2011 GMC Sierra

Regular Cab Models Only and Built Prior to March 12, 2011
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models to include a build date. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 11-08-61-002A (Section 08- Body and Accessories).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a squeak and/or creak type noise coming from the vehicle underbody while driving over uneven surfaces.
Cause





This condition may be caused by the body mounting cable(s). These cables are located at the left and right rear body to frame mounts.
Correction





A revised part with a nylon sleeve added to the shoulder bolt has been made available to correct this condition.
Replace the left and right body mount cables with the revised parts listed below. Refer to Body Cable Replacement in SI for the replacement procedure.
Parts Information

Attached Files


2009 Silverado 4x4 Ext Cab
5.3 4spd auto
3.73 Gears
Airaid, Bilstein 5100, Truxedo,
Diablew Tune, Corvette Trans Servo




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