By Tyler Sywyk
Hello, I own an 08 GMC Sierra 2500HD Diesel Crew Cab Long box pick up, it's throwing a display message, but not giving me any codes, the message is service trailer brake system, it used to show that message and then I had it brought into the shop the second of July and they replaced the trailer break relay in the rear, had to change out some eye connectors at the fuse box. They also replaced the fuse. Worked great again from then to about a three weeks ago and this was including an 11 000km trip towing the trailer, it brought the message up again. The truck had been sitting and driven every once and a while, a bit of idling this winter as well, but no towing. so I replaced the fuse because it looked blown. After replaced it work fine again no more message thought maybe wet weather caused it. Now unfortunately now again yesterday I went to use it again and the message comes up, it was just recently used a few days ago and no message, today we have some dense fog as well as some rain. I think it only happens when it rains heavy or fog.. I am not entirely sure on that though. I replaced the fuse in the fuse box for the (ITBC) The one I changed out before to get it to work, and this time it did not work and nothing changed on the dash message still up. I can more than easily replace the Relay without any issues, but I don't want to do that if it is just going to create the exact same issue. Any ideas on what might be causing this?
Also on a side note, whenever I start the truck it puts out grey smoke until it has warmed up passed about 79-85 degrees Celcius (174F-187F), which is normally after driving for about 5 mins 10 at most or letting it high idle until that temp, it also does smoke when driving until warmed up. it never puts out black or blue smoke. Its grey, just as it is on a cold day in a gas engine. today we've reached the highest temp lately about 8 degrees Celcius and it still smoked. It never did this in the summer or fall just after it got cold. So I am just wondering if this is normal or if something is causing this to happen when it shouldn't be. Could it be something as simple as it needing an oil change? Or also does it need a long drive at highway speed to deal with burn cleaning the DPF? I am a new owner to this pickup, and it is my first year with it so I am new to diesel's and don't know what to expect from them.
Any help Is much appreciated!
i have a 2017 SLE Sierra, and i have a "problem" My parking assist is not beeping.
the camera works correctly on the gmc IntelliLink and sensors visual alert on the driver information center are working fine but the sound when something is close to the sensors is not working.
I've already searched the options on the IntelliLink, turned off and then on didnt solve the problem.
a few days ago I got installed new speakers and amplifier I do not know if it's related to that, tbh i just noticed the lack of sound on the parking assist.
Turn signal, Seat belt and all the chimes sounds are working fine.
Anyone have this issue before? Any ideas how to fix it?
Alright so I have this idea and I don't know if its possible or not. Camaro's have an option where you can have illuminated door panels, I would like to do something similar in 2017 silverado. I have already added interior door piping that matches the exterior color of the truck. I would like to take that same concept but use EL wire instead of the silver piping to create illuminated door panels. I dont want to do too much but I think it would add a little more to the interior and be different.
My thoughts are to get some EL wire with the welting attached to it and place it where the current piping is. But the part I am on the fence about would be what to wire it to. These doors have the lights in the handles that dim with the main dimmer for all of the dash. I was wondering if it could be wired into the circuit that way it would be the same brightness as all the other illumination on the dash. But if you have ever messed with EL wire before, it runs of AC current. You need a 12v driver for them to operate off of a 12v system.
Would it be better to run 1 inverter that would power all 4 doors and then have to run the wire through the whole cab or purchase 4 smaller inverters and place them in behind the door panels. If I was to only use 1 inverter I could possibly connect it to the main dimmer switch instead of the doors circuit. But these lights should not pull alot of current so I'm unsure which would be the best way.
In these picture on my door panel the silver line coming from where the window switch is, is the piping. Thats where the EL wire would go. If i used 1 driver i would need to use a 4 way splitter to go to each door. I have attched a picture of multiple drivers, these things come in all different sizes. The driver i would use if I did 4 different inverters is used to power up to 2 meters of wire. The amount in would be powering would be way shorter then that and the inverter is about 1 inch by 2 inch, so very small. The 1 big inverter option is pretty good size and also is rated to power up to 15 meters.
This should be relatively cheap
4 drivers = $28
EL wire= $15
so about $60
I believe I have found a color that matches the chevy color, the aqua color is pretty dang close if not identical. For the sierra guys, they make red as well.
You would need connectors so you can cut the EL wire to length for the door, It is pretty easy to wire the connector to the EL wire. Most use a 2 pin JST wire connection and you can get a kit with 10 connectors and heat shrink for like $10. I am just wondering if anybody has thought of this or done this and how. If you have any experience with EL wire please chime in.
I want to apologize in advance for the length of this... I just need to point out the details. It’s time GM does something for us who own 2014-2015 models, trucks I’ve dubbed "the engineering guinea pigs" thanks to personal experience and the myriad of complaints in this forum.
Good day to all of you. I’m presenting you an issue that is causing more concern to my safety in my truck than holding a gun to my head. Starting this off by stating I made the grand mistake of taking my truck in to get the steering update instead of checking ground connections myself. Doing this update bit me in the ass within a week of getting my truck back. Let’s just say that after I received my truck from the dealership in far beyond worse condition than I sent it in with, I’m getting consistent and far worse problems after updating. My truck shut off on me completely, losing control of steering and everything, while approaching a red light at about 45 MPH...with my younger brothers in the truck. I took it to the same dealership that same day, and they weren’t able to do anything. I was beyond frustrated. I’ve never had any vibration at any speed until my service. Now I’m getting vibration at 70mph. When I lightly press the brake, I’m hearing a rotational sound coming from my left front wheel, my mechanic says it’s the bearing but with our trucks having sealed bearings, I’m going to be looking at an $800 hub assembly. Just this Saturday, I made a 45 minute drive up to Ft. Lauderdale and as I arrived, I noticed my engine was producing a sound almost like a lifter noise, even though the dealership serviced my lifters(or one specific lifter, not clear at the moment as to what it was). When I got back in my truck after a few hours, I had no lifter noise...WTF? This is getting out of hand.
Here's the part that has me worried: ever since my update, my volt meter is below the half mark all the time (never happened beforehand) and I noticed that my headlights flicker and dim, along with my dash lights sometimes. When I press my brake and use my turn signals, the lights dim significantly and brighten back up but flicker. With my turn signal, my headlight dims when I engage it and as it blinks, my headlights dim and brighten with the blinks. Just the other day as I was backing up out of my buddy's house, my backup camera froze and I got a "service rear camera" message on the display. I’m so confused, how does an update manage to mess up my truck? I'm beyond pissed. The only good this update did was actually improve the shifting slightly, even though I’m still having that infamous 1st to 2nd rough shift. Other than that, this update makes me want to tell GM to F-off and move onto ford or something. Yes, I’m that serious. I’ve been a Chevy person all my life, the majority of my family owns Chevy's... this is just getting out of control. I've searched up all these forums about this and haven’t found too much. Already have links saved and screenshots of individual posts about all this, but I need more insight.
Did I make the mistake of buying a first-generation truck? I’m not looking forward to pursue legal action, which will end up costing me an arm and a leg, on top of that I probably won’t benefit much from it. Realistically, I’m also not looking forward to switching sides just yet. I want to make sure I’ve exhausted all my efforts before I make a drastic change like that.
This was my dream truck... and I was beyond blessed to be able to own it, and I had so much plans for it. Now? It’s looking like a nightmare, and I've got the urge to get rid of it.
HELP. ME. PLEASE.
I have a 2016 Silvarado LTZ Z71 4x4 with the 8 speed... About 13,500 miles on it and it's started to develop a "shudder" and it's been shifting harder. On cruise control it will shudder at around 1300 rpm with speed staying constant. I've driven it in manual on new roads at 35 MPH and it also shudders around the same RPM range. We're talking about vibration enough to shake the steering wheel. Almost the same effect as driving over bumps in the road. When driving it very aggressively at higher RPMs the issue isn't as severe. Also when drifting, aka letting the vehicle decelerate, the issue goes away.
Has anyone had the same issue with the 2016 8 speed? Any solutions?
I'd like to have an idea of what the problem is before going to the dealership tomorrow. I bet $100 they'll tell me it's the tires....
Thanks for input,
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