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Thanks, I will wait til my next trip to the states if it's only $20 a wheel. I'm sure they must have a road force 9700 somewhere in Bellingham, or Seattle. Not interested in paying $200 plus in Canada.

I don't know about the 9700, I didn't check to see what machine they use, the dealership did mine after I had them put the michelins on.

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Where did you get tires and rims off a 2015? they are not even out in the US.GM factory tech coming to look at my truck Thursday. BBB hearing set for next week.

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NEW 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LT

*Sample Payment: $1,018

MSRP: $52,665

engine: VORTEC 6.0L FLEX FUEL V8 ENGINE interior: Jet Black model code: CK25743 msrp: $52,665 stock number: transmission: Automatic vin: 1GC1KXXXXXXXXX540

SEE MORE DETAILS

OptionsMore LT PREFERRED EQUIPMENT ...SEATS, FRONT 40/20/40 ...PICKUP BOX, WIDESIDE (STD) ...SUMMIT WHITE (GAZ)

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NEW 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LT

*Sample Payment: $1,018

MSRP: $52,665

engine: VORTEC 6.0L FLEX FUEL V8 ENGINE interior: Jet Black model code: CK25743 msrp: $52,665 stock number: transmission: Automatic vin: 1GC1KXXXXXXXXX540

SEE MORE DETAILS

OptionsMore LT PREFERRED EQUIPMENT ...SEATS, FRONT 40/20/40 ...PICKUP BOX, WIDESIDE (STD) ...SUMMIT WHITE (GAZ)

Get a QuoteAsk a Question Compare

Answer: Keep it GM! It is worth about $ 15k less.

 

 

 

Edited by pm26
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That's a 2500, so those would be 8 lug instead of 6 lug wheels. Wouldn't fit. They could have pulled them off of a '15 Tahoe or Suburban however.

I was told they came off a 15 model. Not sure what model it was but it doesn't matter cause whatever my dealer put on cured the vibration.

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Does anyone know acceptable road force numbers?

 

The old spec was 24# on the 2013 and older trucks (GMT900) and I was told by my dealer that the 2014's have been brought down to 19#.

Edited by hotrodz37
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Does anyone know acceptable road force numbers?

Here is an interesting post from another forum about road force balancing tires. It would seem that toyota FJ's had issues with vibrations.

 

Re: blood boiling over road force balance!!

I remembered i had copied the post and was going to have it done by a local shop with the Hunter 9700 but decided it was not worth it.Here it is so you wont have to go searching for it on the forum.

 

There seem to be a lot of people posting with tire vibration problems through the steering wheel around 60mph. i was one of them. i've had my FJ for a while now and have gotten it fixed with the help of another member.

 

The problem seems to be related to a very big and heavy wheel/tire combo, and the suspension not soaking up the small vibrations. The cause of the vibration on the road is not actually the balance, but the Road Force Number (basically if the tire is a little out of round). No tires are perfect but Michelins are historically the most round because of the way they are made. The roadforce number can be reduced.

 

Also i have noticed that the wheel locks sold by Toyota are 1 Gram off weight compared to the lugs. i noticed a difference on my Fj.

 

Make sure the tire shop has the Hunter 9700 balancer.

 

Here's the fix to print and take to your tire shop. if they follow this properly your vibration will be gone!

 

Please print this out for your tire tech, not many techs know how to do this. This will fix your steering vibration, once & for all, but allow up to 1.5 hours of actual labor & maybe replacing a tire or two. Why some FJ's are sensitive & some aren't, I don't know. I've heard many explanations & I dont know what to believe. Below is our best fix to date.

 

Start by using a wheel with 15mm or so of offset(on a 8.5" wide wheel), zero offset wheels dont seem to work when using a custom wheel, try to stick to a 275 or skinner tire, we've had some luck with 285's, of course the bigger the badder.

 

Using the Hunter GSP9700 with the latest software (older 9700 software wont work, uses a different mathmatical formula) with the Smart Weight feature: First, disable the smart weight, very important! Back cone the wheel and use the 6 on 5.5 front finger set up. Road Force & ForceMatch, must Forcematch the wheel & tire combo &/or the set to get each below 15 pounds of road force, the lower the better, even if it Road Forces pretty low, ForceMatch every tire any way, no reason to do it half ass. Also, it MUST only be out in the 1st Harmonic, if any tire/wheel combo is out in the 2nd, 3rd, ot 4th Harmonic, change it out, its not fixable. After this is all done by turning the tire on the wheel &/or swapping tires & rechecking the road force( write this # on each wheel), use the Dynamic balance mode to zero out the balance, then check in static mode, if needed add the 1/4 ounce or so, shouldn't need more than 1/4 ounce if any. If weight was added in static mode respin in Dynamic mode & make sure it still says zero zero (0.00 0.00) if it says OK OK it is still in SmartWeight system & it wont fix the problem! After all this you can put back in the SmartWeight mode and the two tires on the screen should just have a sliver of green on the bottom of the tires, this is good, if it shows more than about 1/10th of the tire in green then it need to be redone or replace the tire or wheel. Now put the lowest road force numbers(hopefull 6 lbs. or less) on the front of your FJ with Hub Centric wheels or with the Hub Rings installed(must be hub centric)!

 

Road Force Variation is : For every 10 pounds of road force in the assembly = 1/2 ounce of vibration at 50mph or 1/4 ounce vibration at 70mph, so 30 pounds of road force would equate to 1.5 ounces of vibration at 50mph but only .75 ounces at 70mph, this is one reason most vibration problems begin at 55ish and go tend away at 65ish & this can NOT be fixed by balancing!

 

Let me clarify the Harmonic thing, if an assembly is bad in the 2nd-4th Harmonic then that assembly it is NOT usable, but that doesn't mean the tire or the wheel is bad, just that that paticular marriage is no good , quite possibly the same wheel with different tire is okay or same tire on different wheel is okay.

 

(9-1-06) One other trick I forgot to post. On sensitive cars we like to raod force hot tires, drive on them for 4 miles or so & do the fronts, drive again & do the rears, it will road force way different hot than a clod tire, more of a real world fix.

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I don't know about the 9700, I didn't check to see what machine they use, the dealership did mine after I had them put the michelins on.

Discount Tire in Bellingham has the road force and charges 165. They said they will force match my tires all inclusive no extra charges. Much better deal than where I live in Canada, will probably do this in Sept.

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If my shaking on the highway comes and goes is it probably not balance related? I do notice my tonneau cover flutters quite a bit. Would this have something to do with it? On the dealer paperwork it states RF balanced within spec. At times it rides nice and others (20 mile stretch) it doesn't.

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Thxs for the update, and the fix for your clunking.

When you say your leaf springs were moving side to side do you mean they were loose at the ubolts to rear axle area, or were they loose at the leaf spring eye to body bracket to bolt area.

 

Loose leaf spring to rear axle ubolts will cause clunking when axle wrap occours. It is a common practic to recheck retorque the axle ubolts after 500 miles or so. All trucks have some form of axle wrap, but axle movement from leaf springs means ubolts are loose allowing the axle to rotate forward pushing the driveshaft forward into the transmission yoke this has been an ongoing issue for GM in the past.

 

On sure way to check this is where leaf bolts to axle there will be a shinny metal wear area on axle near fastening bracket. This is noticeable if you look around that axle area.

Glad your truck is fixed now.

The springs were defective and allowing the two to shift at the ends....U Bolts were tight! (torque at 180 ft lbs+)! As I stated, they wrapped a hose clamp around the front and rear on both sides and this stopped the movement...of course I didn't want to leave hose clamps on a 40K truck...so tech ordered new springs (complete with the heavy duty leaf) and when they were installed....Stopped all the shifting which was minute, but enough to make a noise....Fixed the problem and no hose clamps to embarrase me or GM!!

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Noticed that I have a small vibration at freeway speeds. It is I KY present when I'm in v4 mode and about to switch back to v6. Basically it only occurs when V4 is being taxed. Don't know if anyone else has noticed this

 

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

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I have a 2014 silverado Z71 crew cab, I have a shake from the rear end. Everything in the cab shakes between 35 to 45 and then again around 70. Feels like the seat is a massaging seat. I bought a new set of rims and used the stock tires, 17 inch. Still had shake even after 2 rebalancing. I then bought new 22's and have same shake but worse. Took to dealership, advised had three seperate set of rims and two different set of tires, two different shop balancing machines, same shake. Dealer technician noticed the shake also. Dealer had my truck from Thursday thru Monday and gave me another 2014 Silverado 4x4 to drive, same shake. When i picked mine back up they told me is was the aftermarket rims and tires, nothing they could do for me. I seen other blogs where they said GM knows about the problem, has anyone else heard if GM is working on a fix?

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