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Seat Movement Issues


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Ok, lets do this.

 

First, acquire the retainer part. I got mine for $5.08 to the door.

 

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For 2014-2015, just pop the retainer on the seat bar and put a zip tie around it like the last picture in the PIT5542 doc posted above (post #910).

 

For 2016+:

 

Use some painters tape to outline where you will cut to make the retainer look like the modded one from the GM doc:

 

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You'll see the molded seam mentioned in the doc.

 

Clamp it lightly into a vice or hold it with vice grips. Either way, be sure that it is stable so you don't F yourself up. I used a towel around a small vice so as not to damage the retainer when clamping it:

 

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Use a grinder or cutting tool or even a sharp pair of dykes or razor knife (Without cutting yourself. always cut away from your body). I used a small cutter wheel attachment in a drill:

 

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At first, I wasn't sure if I was to cut only one side until I tried to put it on. The "welded" bracket tabs mentioned in the PIT5542 will most contact the rear of the retainer. Cut both sides the same way and trim away the slag.

 

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I had to trim mine back a little bit after the initial cut as the retainer wouldn't sit flush. You'll know what looks right and what doesn't when you go to fit it on. Trim back little by little until it fits nice. Move your seat up or down until the retainer sits even with the white guide block (you'll know it when you see it).

 

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Install a zip tie (I used two since they fit) and trim the tail(s).

 

That's all there is to it. I haven't had time to test it out yet, but that's the full GM dealer fix right there so if this doesn't work then we'll have to figure something else out. For me it was worth the five bucks and doing it myself so as not to waste time and have a dealer monkey crawl around my truck or have them tell me "couldn't replicate problem".

 

Cheers.

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Edited by Epsilon Plus
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If you'd read this thread, the cheapest, easiest fix that works is the hose clamp fix. You don't need the rubber underneath the clamp though. Many have insisted in going back to the dealer with the problem only returning. The clamp fix is the permanent solution. Save yourself time, headache and aggravation from the dealer.

Does anyone have a picture of the hose clamp fix on a seat that the dealer hasn't touched yet?

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Attached 3 hose clamps to the bar under the seat yesterday What a difference. Went for a ride through a hilly-curvy subdivision with zero movement. Thanks mafd2 for the advice.

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I picked up the OEM clip and did the fix this past weekend. Took about 10 minutes to trim/dry-fit then 2 minutes to actually install. So far it eliminated MOST of my problem but not all of it. I'm going to remove the clip this weekend, trim it a little more, and reinstall it with some extra zip ties going around it and the white bracket.

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Since the fix I did in post #916, the seat has been rock solid for 300+ city miles of rain gutters, expansion joints, and slow speed turns. Not a wiggle.

Same here, but the dealer did mine, way back many posts ago. It's been about 3000 miles now and seat is still solid. Zero noises or issues.
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Life is too short, clamps are too easy to install, and dealer waiting rooms are not my thing. My Silverado held for almost 3 years with clamps and no clicking. The new Denali started shifting and clicking by 2K. Did the rubber and clamp fix and were back in business as of today. Some things are just easier to do without the dealer.

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Okay I tightened the first zip tie that goes around the retainer. Just for extra peace of mind I wrapped another zip tie the whole way around the white clip and the new black retainer. Presto -- movement gone! I have put over 300 miles on it with no clicking or moving whatsoever!

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It's funny how most of these seats developed an issue almost immediately. I've had mine for almost 3 years and 52,000 miles and it just now started to develop movement. I read all 62 pages of this post because it was driving me nuts. I had the seat all the way bottomed out and when I raised it just slightly, the movement went away like others said. I could physically move the lower seat and see the play in those white plastic clips. I'm not sure I like the seat any higher than I had it so I ordered the GM part to fix it. If that doesn't do it, hose clamps will be next.

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I took it to the dealer and they fixed it. Got an oil change, tire rotation, state inspection, and the seat fix. It all took an hour and a half.

 

The techs must do a lot of these seat fixes if he can do them that quickly with parts on hand.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I took it to the dealer and they fixed it. Got an oil change, tire rotation, state inspection, and the seat fix. It all took an hour and a half.

 

The techs must do a lot of these seat fixes if he can do them that quickly with parts on hand.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I am taking my 216 in for my free oil change and to have them fix this. Is it still the PI1183A issue, or does your invoice show anything different? Care to scan your invoice so I can see what service they performed to fix the seat so I can properly inform my dealer in case they are not as savvy as yours?

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I am taking my 216 in for my free oil change and to have them fix this. Is it still the PI1183A issue, or does your invoice show anything different? Care to scan your invoice so I can see what service they performed to fix the seat so I can properly inform my dealer in case they are not as savvy as yours?

004892baf4e8bd87386162ceec82ebc5.jpg here ya go!

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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