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Rigid Reverse LIghts / power failure to factory reverse lights dilemma UPDATE:

 

Dropped Black Doug (that’s the name of my truck, total Hangover movies reference) off at the dealer this morning. Service manager told me it was going to be $100.00 diagnostics charge and then go from there…… OK, so they have us all by the nads when it comes to diagnostics!

 

Just got off the phone with him and he said that the factory reverse lights are working, Rigids work when bypass switch is used but not when truck is put into gear. I seem to remember that the speed shop told me they were un-hooking the taps from the lights that grabbed power from factory reverse lights when I had them look at it first, so there were no issues at the dealer about it. So i am happy that the factory lights work without them telling me that the Rigids back loaded the circuit and I fried a $4000.00 circuit board or something ridiculous like that. I could hear the tech in the back ground telling the service mgr. that these new ’14’s are a whole new ball game when it comes to adding things and that if the computer sees the wrong reading…i.e.- adding lights that are now asking for more power than what the computer is told to provide, it will cause a malfunction and shut the circuit down…… I told him that i have seen guys add enough lights to the back of their trucks to light up a stadium and don’t have any issues.

WHATEVER……… instead of 10 minutes of mindless conversation with no resolution in sight, i was happy that the factory lights work and there is no huge repair bill!

Here’s the best part, I asked him what the damage was and he said NO CHARGE!!!! Even better. It’s nice to see that there are car dealers that want your repeat business and actually care about you. For some reason, the last 3 times I have bought new vehicles, I end up buying 3 at a time! So I guess they took that into consideration and had mercy on me….LOL!

 

Now I just have to get to the bottom of how to get the Rigid lights to work in the manner I expected….. I may try tapping power to them off of one of the trailer harness leads seeing that that would be an expected additional load to the ECM and see if that works out.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and concern….. I will update when I get them working properly again..

 

 

As an added note, I had also called them about a drivers side grab handle and the parts mgr. told me no such thing, weren’t available so I showed them the one I installed and told them to do their homework, they are losing business!!

Edited by Chevyrcg
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Rigid Reverse LIghts / power failure to factory reverse lights dilemma UPDATE:

 

Dropped Black Doug (that’s the name of my truck, total Hangover movies reference) off at the dealer this morning. Service manager told me it was going to be $100.00 diagnostics charge and then go from there…… OK, so they have us all by the nads when it comes to diagnostics!

 

Just got off the phone with him and he said that the factory reverse lights are working, Rigids work when bypass switch is used but not when truck is put into gear. I seem to remember that the speed shop told me they were un-hooking the taps from the lights that grabbed power from factory reverse lights when I had them look at it first, so there were no issues at the dealer about it. So i am happy that the factory lights work without them telling me that the Rigids back loaded the circuit and I fried a $4000.00 circuit board or something ridiculous like that. I could hear the tech in the back ground telling the service mgr. that these new ’14’s are a whole new ball game when it comes to adding things and that if the computer sees the wrong reading…i.e.- adding lights that are now asking for more power than what the computer is told to provide, it will cause a malfunction and shut the circuit down…… I told him that i have seen guys add enough lights to the back of their trucks to light up a stadium and don’t have any issues.

WHATEVER……… instead of 10 minutes of mindless conversation with no resolution in sight, i was happy that the factory lights work and there is no huge repair bill!

Here’s the best part, I asked him what the damage was and he said NO CHARGE!!!! Even better. It’s nice to see that there are car dealers that want your repeat business and actually care about you. For some reason, the last 3 times I have bought new vehicles, I end up buying 3 at a time! So I guess they took that into consideration and had mercy on me….LOL!

 

Now I just have to get to the bottom of how to get the Rigid lights to work in the manner I expected….. I may try tapping power to them off of one of the trailer harness leads seeing that that would be an expected additional load to the ECM and see if that works out.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and concern….. I will update when I get them working properly again..

 

 

As an added note, I had also called them about a drivers side grab handle and the parts mgr. told me no such thing, weren’t available so I showed them the one I installed and told them to do their homework, they are losing business!!

I don't know if your tech savy but you purchase expensive lights and wires couldn't stop you. I'm going to make a video prob next week on how I did my lights and the wiring. so don't give up.

 

2014 Silverado 1500 V8 4x4 All-Star Edition

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  • 2 months later...

Has anyone put 2 square led lights on each side of the silverado in the fog light housing like this???

 

1235085_628897807131849_144195135_n.jpg

Has anyone done this yet on the 2014 Silverado?

 

I just purchased my 4 LED Cubes to do this, just looking for some help if someone has already done it.

 

I bought 2 Spot and 2 Flood, going to put one of each in each fog housing to get some good lighting.

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Has anyone tried tapping the reverse wire on the trailer plug? Its fused separate then tail/reverse lights and it would be expected that it could handle variable loads since trailers may pull different amperage.

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Has anyone tried tapping the reverse wire on the trailer plug? Its fused separate then tail/reverse lights and it would be expected that it could handle variable loads since trailers may pull different amperage.

 

I was wondering the same thing.

I have one of these (http://www.carid.com/plasmaglow-led-lights/plasmaglow-led-lighting-860748.html) and the reverse light is a separate wire that needs to be tapped in.

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I was wondering the same thing.

I have one of these (http://www.carid.com/plasmaglow-led-lights/plasmaglow-led-lighting-860748.html) and the reverse light is a separate wire that needs to be tapped in.

The reverse light on that needs tapped in because it used the 4 pin trailer connector. The 7 pin connector has a reverse pin.

 

qu41784_800.jpg

Edited by CoasterCOG
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My plan was to clamp a light or two on my receiver hitch mounted step and simply plug it into the trailer socket when I venture off-road. I don't want to run wire for a switch nor do I need/want extra light unless off-road.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I completed the install. I used the trailer wiring instead taillight wires. I also have them rigged to work with LED load lights in the bed as well via the OEM switch.

 

Used a 85 amp automotive diode to run trailer reverse feed and load lights in (like ones used for Tow Bar wiring harness), to a 12v relay. In 1st pic you can see it all laid out for testing. Everything worked like is should. Left them on with load light for almost an hour with no issues, left load lights on and placed in reverse with no issue. I also got a 7 to 7/4 adapter so I did not have to chop up the OEM harness www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tow-Ready/118384.html .

 

I didnt go pic crazy. We have all seen how they well they work.20140801_184418.jpg20140801_205553.jpg20140801_205715.jpg

Edited by Toddfather
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I was planning on just wiring my pods on the bed lighting circuit so that I could just turn them on whenever I wanted, but last night I noticed the bed lights would only turn on when the truck was in park. Does anyone know if there is a way to change this? Otherwise, I guess I'll either do like Toddfather or add a switch .

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  • 1 month later...

So I completed the install. I used the trailer wiring instead taillight wires. I also have them rigged to work with LED load lights in the bed as well via the OEM switch.

 

Used a 85 amp automotive diode to run trailer reverse feed and load lights in (like ones used for Tow Bar wiring harness), to a 12v relay. In 1st pic you can see it all laid out for testing. Everything worked like is should. Left them on with load light for almost an hour with no issues, left load lights on and placed in reverse with no issue. I also got a 7 to 7/4 adapter so I did not have to chop up the OEM harness www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tow-Ready/118384.html .

 

I didnt go pic crazy. We have all seen how they well they work.20140801_184418.jpg20140801_205553.jpg20140801_205715.jpg

Can you post your diagram pic again. Doing this next weekend. Thanks
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Can you post your diagram pic again. Doing this next weekend. Thanks

Sorry I dont have all pics on my phone anymore. But most of the wiring is off back of 7 way plug. It just clips into back of bumper. I added the spacer wiring kit for $30 to avoid chopping OEM wiring as much as possible.

 

You need to locate two wires harness near spare tire. The hot/switched wire that powers LED bed lighting and in 7 way, the reverse wire. You can use blue Scotch Locks or wire taps and both of those plug into diode. The diode is marked on which way power should flow. From diode a single wire runs to switch pole on relay. From 7way you will find a constant 12 volt wire. Wire tap that to 12v post on relay. Then a ground wire is needed for relay. Depending on your relay 4 or 5 post, you have a line out to the lights. It really doesn't matter if its its 4 or 5. If it's a 4 pole just put two wire in crimped connector.

 

I would strongly suggest getting extra wire taps, butt connectors, and spade connectors if you are not real familiar with crimping. Amazon had a really nice relays with wiring harness for $5 or 10. I would have gone that route if I wasn't so eager to see how bright they are.

 

Hope that helps

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Sorry I dont have all pics on my phone anymore. But most of the wiring is off back of 7 way plug. It just clips into back of bumper. I added the spacer wiring kit for $30 to avoid chopping OEM wiring as much as possible.

 

You need to locate two wires harness near spare tire. The hot/switched wire that powers LED bed lighting and in 7 way, the reverse wire. You can use blue Scotch Locks or wire taps and both of those plug into diode. The diode is marked on which way power should flow. From diode a single wire runs to switch pole on relay. From 7way you will find a constant 12 volt wire. Wire tap that to 12v post on relay. Then a ground wire is needed for relay. Depending on your relay 4 or 5 post, you have a line out to the lights. It really doesn't matter if its its 4 or 5. If it's a 4 pole just put two wire in crimped connector.

 

I would strongly suggest getting extra wire taps, butt connectors, and spade connectors if you are not real familiar with crimping. Amazon had a really nice relays with wiring harness for $5 or 10. I would have gone that route if I wasn't so eager to see how bright they are.

 

Hope that helps

Thank you very much! I was unfamiliar with how the diode worked and relay. Not very advanced with my electrical/electronics understanding. Lol. The relay mentioned on Amazon.

Sorry I dont have all pics on my phone anymore. But most of the wiring is off back of 7 way plug. It just clips into back of bumper. I added the spacer wiring kit for $30 to avoid chopping OEM wiring as much as possible.

 

You need to locate two wires harness near spare tire. The hot/switched wire that powers LED bed lighting and in 7 way, the reverse wire. You can use blue Scotch Locks or wire taps and both of those plug into diode. The diode is marked on which way power should flow. From diode a single wire runs to switch pole on relay. From 7way you will find a constant 12 volt wire. Wire tap that to 12v post on relay. Then a ground wire is needed for relay. Depending on your relay 4 or 5 post, you have a line out to the lights. It really doesn't matter if its its 4 or 5. If it's a 4 pole just put two wire in crimped connector.

 

I would strongly suggest getting extra wire taps, butt connectors, and spade connectors if you are not real familiar with crimping. Amazon had a really nice relays with wiring harness for $5 or 10. I would have gone that route if I wasn't so eager to see how bright they are.

 

Hope that helps

Thank you very much! I was unfamiliar with how the diode worked and relay. Not very advanced with my electrical/electronics understanding. Lol. The relay mentioned on Amazon. Is it something like this http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Duralast-Relay-Multiple-Purpose/_/N-4bb1?id=155155?

I am good with crimping and all that jazz. Lol. Just not with component identification. Thanks for the help!

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Thank you very much! I was unfamiliar with how the diode worked and relay. Not very advanced with my electrical/electronics understanding. Lol. The relay mentioned on Amazon.

Thank you very much! I was unfamiliar with how the diode worked and relay. Not very advanced with my electrical/electronics understanding. Lol. The relay mentioned on Amazon. Is it something like this http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Duralast-Relay-Multiple-Purpose/_/N-4bb1?id=155155?

I am good with crimping and all that jazz. Lol. Just not with component identification. Thanks for the help!

 

This is what I would have used http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1411240526&sr=1-9&keywords=relay+harness 41tqAPmJvuL.jpg Any autopart store will sell just the relay for $10 as well.

 

 

I was planning on just wiring my pods on the bed lighting circuit so that I could just turn them on whenever I wanted, but last night I noticed the bed lights would only turn on when the truck was in park. Does anyone know if there is a way to change this? Otherwise, I guess I'll either do like Toddfather or add a switch .

Mine are wires to reverse lights and bed lights. No extra switch.

Edited by Toddfather
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