2006 Yukon Denali Electrical Issues

brennan357 · December 3, 2013

Two days ago my 2006 Yukon Denali XL did something very strange. There are multiple controls on the dashboard not operating: Oil pressure gauge, transmission temperature, fuel level, dimmer switch, ABS light-Battery Light & Airbag lights stay on. Stereo does not come on, cannot unlock the doors or operate any windows from the D/S arm console, front seat heaters will not come on and the rear heater (blower) will not engage. I was told that all my fuses and relays are good and it is due to the alternator only pushing out minimal power. Does this sound to be a plausible cause?

brennan357 · December 4, 2013

A mechanic in North Pole Alaska when we stopped at his shop. I will try disconnecting the battery and hope that works. I do appreciate the response Brother.

Javenged1007 · July 16, 2017

This might help....I have a 2006 Yukon Denali XL which was purchased used about a month ago. The factory radio was missing so I decided to install a aftermarket jvc. Long story short I ran into a problem with powering up the radio, and after multiple tests I found that I was not getting power to the A1 pin on the 28 pin harness. I then realized why the radio was missing, seems that something electrical went wrong and they thought it would had to do with the radio. I did further research and found that everything interior electrical is connected through a control module. I inspected the interior buttons and found that the pedel buttons and dash lights were not working as well. I checked all wiring and fuses and no open short detection. Talk to a senior gmc service tech and he said that is a bad body control module. Apparently he said that this is a know issue and just happens. Dormin

i just got one in and install it tomorrow, let you know what happens.

Doug_Scott · December 3, 2013

Who told you the alternator was only pushing out minimal power? If none of the accessories are working, why would the alternator need to push out more power? This is easy enough to test, put a voltmeter on the battery with the truck not running, record the voltage, now start the truck, and record the voltage after the truck is running. Is it higher than it was before the engine was started?

Generally when you get results like you are getting, with all the strange warning lights, stuff not working, stuff working but not correctly you will likely find a bad ground issue. Check the ground on the battery cable, both ends, as well as ground straps from body to engine. Has anything strange happened recently? Did all this happen at once?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery to reset the pcm? Easy way to do it, is take off the negative cable, then positive, clean cables and posts, connect battery back up, positive first, then negative. Reason for doing cables in this order is simply to prevent having a wrench slip while doing positive cable and shorting out to body. With negative cable disconnected first, having wrench slip and touch body will not short out battery.