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2014 Silverado Towing


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My first post. I'm a new truck owner by purchasing a 2014 Silverado 5.3L V8 gas engine, standard bed, crew-cab, with max towing package, 3.73 axle ratio. The truck drives great, and all the extras are also nice. My desire is to eventually get a travel trailer, and I've read many articles, on this forum and other places trying to get advice. Many articles have helped. My truck supposedly can tow 11,100 lbs, but I'm thinking we should keep things under 10,000 lbs max. The truck will be pulling a trailer up and down the Colorado western slope mountains, with many roads having hairpin curves. What do you consider a safe max GVWR for a camper? Would 9K lbs GVWR be too much? Is a 5th wheel ok with a dry weight of 7500 lbs, and GVWR 9700 lbs? I'm sure pulling these weights at sea level is possible, but the mountains is a different story. Would you stay under a certain percentage of the max towing weight of the truck? I welcome any advice as this is all new to me.

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Most half tons are good at the 8-8500 range above that you are getting into 3/4ton range. This has to do with brakes, tire (E range), frame etc. Sure 1/2 tons can do more, but once you start adding all the weight of people and stuff, then add the tounge weight of the heavy trailer you are most likely over the rating. The 3/4tons give you a lot more capability. Good luck.

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5ver that size is 3/4 ton territory minimum. Your looking at probably a minimum of 1600+lbs pin weight. What is the payload sticker in the drivers door jamb, maybe around 1900ish lbs? Everything added to the truck (bed liner, splash/mud guards, etc) and carried inside the truck must be subtracted from that figure as well including the 5th wheel hitch.

 

Not sure I would go over 8k lbs loaded for a travel trailer. Tongue weight can range up to 15%, but "average" is about 13%. Just depends on what all you add to the truck in regards to accessories. The weight adds up very quickly! I have been there with a '10-1500 that had about 1550lbs payload per the drivers door jamb sticker. Spray in bed liner, WeatherTech mud flaps and floor mats, cab high fiberglass topper, step bars, 4 bikes in the bed, wife and twin 10yr old boys, and we were over the trucks gvwr by up to 200lbs with 920lbs of tongue weight.

 

Not sure (can't remember!) if the max tow package includes LT tires or P rated tires, but you will want LT tires with that weight for sure! And if you go the travel trailer route, a good weight distribution (wd) hitch with integrated sway control. Equal-I-Zer 4 way system or Reese Dual Cam system.

 

Also check www.rv.net out as well for a ton of info!

 

Good luck!

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  • 4 weeks later...

My first post. I'm a new truck owner by purchasing a 2014 Silverado 5.3L V8 gas engine, standard bed, crew-cab, with max towing package, 3.73 axle ratio. The truck drives great, and all the extras are also nice. My desire is to eventually get a travel trailer, and I've read many articles, on this forum and other places trying to get advice. Many articles have helped. My truck supposedly can tow 11,100 lbs, but I'm thinking we should keep things under 10,000 lbs max. The truck will be pulling a trailer up and down the Colorado western slope mountains, with many roads having hairpin curves. What do you consider a safe max GVWR for a camper? Would 9K lbs GVWR be too much? Is a 5th wheel ok with a dry weight of 7500 lbs, and GVWR 9700 lbs? I'm sure pulling these weights at sea level is possible, but the mountains is a different story. Would you stay under a certain percentage of the max towing weight of the truck? I welcome any advice as this is all new to me.

Please check your payload figure located under the tire sizes on your yellow and white sticker located in the driver's door jam and get back to us.

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I looked at the door jam and it really only shows the tire psi specs and the cargo and passenger weight max as 1513 lbs. Was I supposed to look for some other info? The door jam sticker also stated to refer to owner's manual for more info. Thanks for your feedback.

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5ver that size is 3/4 ton territory minimum.

 

Not sure I would go over 8k lbs loaded for a travel trailer.

 

 

 

There are 5vrs out there that are lighter...I owned a 24-footer that had a GVW of just over 5k (actual weight was 3500#) and pin weight of under 500 pounds. Point being, trailer configuration means little, GVW and tongue weights are what count. The main advantage is that a 5vr will have better road manners than a bumper pull, mainly because the hitch is between the wheels, where it has less leverage both down and side to side. Although I have since sold it for a smaller bumper pull, I liked the handling characteristics of my 5vr.

 

I've had probably 7500#s (1.5 cords of green firewood and 2400# trailer) behind my 2500HD and I personally would not want to continually tow that kind of weight, especially in the mountains. I like to err on the side of over cautious, and would rather tow lighter with a less stressful tow (less stressful for both the truck and the driver). I currently own a 3000# Coleman Evolution E3 popup, and took it on a trip to Maine last year. We probably were grossing 11k to 12k GCVW between camper and gear (~3500#s), truck and gear (~8500#s), and family. And that towed well, and was an very enjoyable road trip. I've towed all over the mountains of PA with that setup, and never had an instance where it made me uncomfortable.

 

I've toted a camper and small trailer all over the Rockies around Colorado/Utah/Arizona/New Mexico, and that was with probably a better tow rig than even my current 2500HD...while there were never any places that made me nervous, the thought always went through my mind "glad I don't have anything less." And that's mainly because of braking...brakes fade when they get hot, the 2500/3500 have bigger brakes than a 1500 for a reason. You can drive slower uphill when under powered, but not much you can do about brake fade going downhill.

 

One thing I would recommend is upgrading your tires to LT and Load Range E as others have recommended, not necessarily for load carrying but that it will eliminate a lot of squirm that the soft sidewalls of a P-series tire has under load. And buy the best brake controller you can afford (if you don't have the integrated controller).

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The 1513 is the figure you need to know. That determines everything. If you buy a trailer at 6,000 pounds at 12% hitch weight=720 pounds. You have another 700approx. pounds left for cargo (ice chests, firewood, bikes, AND PASSENGERS).

 

So-these trucks really can't tow their maximum weight without going over payload.

 

 

At 10,000 pound trailer you will be at 1,200 pound tongue weight. That's not going to work.

 

You could tow a very small (25foot) Ultra Light fifth wheel due to heavy pin weights.

 

 

I would suggest a trailer at 6,000 pounds DRY. Remember-slides are 300 pounds a piece.

 

 

I towed a 5,000 pound-29 foot travel trailer 8,000 miles around the country last year w/my 2011 Crew Cab with the 5.3. The payload was 1440 pounds. The tongue weight of the trailer was 750 pounds. I had a passenger and a couple of plastic bins in the bed with extra clothes and some other misc. supplies. I figure I was under payload by at least 300 pounds.

 

My truck is "rated" to tow 9,600 pounds. These "rated" tow numbers are a joke-at best.

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The Chevy website list the Crew cab, standard bed, 5.3, 4x4 max payload as 1883lbs. Is the website wrong? or is there some other package added onto this truck which reduced the capacity?

 

 

I looked at the door jam and it really only shows the tire psi specs and the cargo and passenger weight max as 1513 lbs. Was I supposed to look for some other info? The door jam sticker also stated to refer to owner's manual for more info. Thanks for your feedback.

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The Chevy website list the Crew cab, standard bed, 5.3, 4x4 max payload as 1883lbs. Is the website wrong? or is there some other package added onto this truck which reduced the capacity?

 

 

Every truck is different depending on options. The door jam is the gospel.

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That's the short answer....

He will be OK with a light trailer. If I were pulling in the mountains on a regular basis with his truck...I probably wouldn't go over 4,000 pounds. That's just MHO.

 

But your right...the lighter the better. The truck salesman and RV salesman will tell him different!

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Unfortunately I have family in the RV business, and that is all too true. They tend to push bigger, usually more expensive, units in order to make more commission. Even when I was looking at 5vrs way back when, they were pushing units on me that were way to big for a decent 2500 diesel set up for towing. I found the best thing to do is to know what your truck can handle bofore you buy, and DON'T TAKE THE TRUCK with you to the dealership.

 

As well as my truck handles my Evolution, I think you are pretty close to a realistic weight (at 4000#s) that would see a lot of mountain towing with a smaller drivetrain.

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My follow up question is, what options did the OP add to reduce the payload by 370 lbs? I want to avoid those options if possible!

 

 

Different cab, bed length, power options...all of it changes the GVW.

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