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2006 Sierra 1500 Brake and shake


phantom01231

Question

OK I got this truck back in September and she has ran great. OK so all of a sudden after driving for about 10 min she will start to shake and it progressively gets worse. When I hit the brakes IT'S BAD!! The truck still Stops fine but you can feel the pedal pulse and it gets real firm. Now after I come to a full stop it goes away for a while. Not sure what's going on. Checked vac going to booster and that's fine. Did the pedal test for the booster and it passed. Visual of booster turns up nothing. Checked pads still have lots of life. Did find that whoever the last owner took it to did not replace any of the hardware and instead of using grease the put anti seize on EVERYTHING.got new hardware and cleaned of the anti and used brake grease. Everything looked OK could not check rotors to see if they are worpped but they should be fine I would think still fairly new. Bleed off brakes and everything worked just perfect until today same issue but slightly better. Does not seem to shake AS much when I'm driving just stopping. At a loss any ideas!

 

Thanks

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I cleaned and lube the slides real good and replaced the rubber boots. They seemed to slide just fine. I didn't take the rotors off and the outside looks fine visually. I'm guessing I need to check on the inside though for the discoloration being as that's the side the pistons are on? One thing to note is I haven't smelled any "burning" though. And both sets of pads looked good with nice and even wear. Both sides had about the same amount of material. I'll check those items above when I get home and report back.

 

 

The slides are what makes the inside pad wear the same as the outside pad. Does not matter what side the piston is on, the caliper uses Newton's laws of motion. The piston being pushed out of the caliper and the caliper gets pushed away from the piston, so the inside pad is pushed into the rotor, and the outside pad is pulled into the rotor. If the slides stick or are seized, you will have different wear on each pad.

 

If the rotor has any more than about 0.006 inch runout (or warp), it will cause a vibration. 0.006 inches is about two black hairs thick.

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agree with above.

 

Generally if you start picking up a vibration after driving for certain length of time, it will be something in the brakes causing the pad to rub on the rotor, and as it heats up, the pad will rub more, and this repeats until either the vibration gets so bad you stop, or you start to smell the brakes.

 

There are a few things that will cause this. First you need to determine if it is just one side causing the vibration, or is it both sides. Take a look at the colour of the rotor. If they are the same colour, that will make it a bit tougher to diagnose. As suggested above, take the truck out(take a wrench with you that fits the bleeder screw on caliper), and drive around normally until the vibration starts up again. Check the rotor or hub on each side and see what side is hotter. Whatever side is hotter, take the wrench and just crack the bleeder open then close it again right away. Do not pump the brakes, or even touch the brake pedal during this time. All you are looking for is some fluid to squirt out like it is under pressure. It should not squirt out, if there is nothing wrong, the brake fluid will dribble a bit.

 

If the fluid squirted out, then you have something wrong in the hydraulic portion of the brakes(as opposed to a sticking caliper). If the fluid just dribbles out, you likely have a caliper that is sticking on the slides, or a piston sticking inside the caliper. Depending on the anti-seize that was used, it may have attacked the rubber bits in the slider portion, causing them to stick.

 

If they are both the same temperature, then you will need to start checking at the master cylinder, paying attention to the compensating port at the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir to see if it is plugged.

 

If possible, try to jack the front of truck up as soon as you can after vibration starts and spin the front wheels, checking for being hard to rotate. The one that is harder to turn will be the side causing the vibration. If you find one caliper starting to stick, replace the slider hardware on both calipers, and rebuild both calipers. There is no advantage to only rebuilding the one side.

 

 

 

you should be able to tell which side it is by the colour of the rotor. The side

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I cleaned and lube the slides real good and replaced the rubber boots. They seemed to slide just fine. I didn't take the rotors off and the outside looks fine visually. I'm guessing I need to check on the inside though for the discoloration being as that's the side the pistons are on? One thing to note is I haven't smelled any "burning" though. And both sets of pads looked good with nice and even wear. Both sides had about the same amount of material. I'll check those items above when I get home and report back.

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