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How-To: GMT800 EVAP Canister Replacement.


kstruckcountry

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My pickup threw a P0446 code recently and it had happened before. I had previously cleaned out the canister and solenoid. You can too, but it will plug up again. In addition to P0446, I believe P0440 and P0449 can be caused by a plugged canister as well.

 

Some genius decided the back of the fuel tank was a great location to try and pull air. Idiot. It's probably the single dustiest place on the pickup. If you drive on any dirt, it will pick up "a little" dust. Pictured is the old canister with its "filter" and its contents.

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NOTE: Proper foot protection is important. Automotive work can be dangerous, and without proper footwear you could step in something gross.

 

You'll need this kit, part #'s are pictured. You will also need 5/8" hose.

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First you need to disconnect the old canister. You can see where I cut the line in the first pic. Disconnect the plug and slide it off the clip, save the old canister for punishment with your firearm of choice.

 

Then you will need to attach the new canister. Slide it onto the clip, attach the wiring, and cut a short piece of hose to attach it to the line. I used a hose clamp to cinch it down on the line, and zip ties for the rest. I realize the 200 psi hose I used was overkill, but it's what I had available. Zipties also aren't my first choice, but they'll work. I personally prefer the spring loaded clamps GM uses to hose clamps because hose clamps can be fouled by mud, rust, etc.

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After the new canister is in place, you will need to run the line which the included filter box attaches to. You're supposed to mount the filter on top of the transmission. You can, but I opted to mount it under the hood. It's far less dusty there. I ran it down the frame, then out and followed the wiring harness at the ABS box. It's really up to you where to place it, I put it next to the brake booster and fuse box. Not much to see. You'll need about 15 feet of hose to put it under the hood. It's a good idea to tape the end before routing the hose, and ziptie it in a few places to secure it. Then attach the filter box and secure it and you're good to go. Just run the hose through here:

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It is a very short project, once you're done the trouble code should go away almost immediately, and soon the check engine light will clear on its own.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok part 2. After I drove about 1000 miles the check engine light came back again. Turns out the crappy original filter let enough dust by to plug up the main evap canister. I ordered a new one and installed it. $90.

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Moral of the story is if you drive in dusty conditions you should replace the factory vent solenoid with the updated version before it plugs up the evap canister and costs more money to fix!

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It isn't much fun, especially on gravel. But it's not too bad to get at if you remove the bolt and metal plate that holds the canister in place before removing the lines. I removed the plastic tube that runs from the vent and replaced it with hose, since the connector broke. The connectors to the tank and motor are a better style and I didn't have trouble with them.

 

To get the light to clear, I think you have to let the evap system run through its vacuum cycle. I just cleared it with the monitor on my dash. :)

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