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Recently I've installed a kicker 1000.5 to amp up my Bose speakers and install a 10" rockford fosgate p3. At about a 1/4 volume sounds like just the rear passenger side is the most clear. When I put it about 1/2 volume music becomes semi clear but it still sounds as tho my front speakers aren't producing sound like the rear. On the amp the gains are set the same. What could be preventing me from getting a full sound?

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The way I would set up and the way I have done it before is to use the factory speakers as "mids and highs" turning the bass completely or almost all the way down. Then have the sub hooked up in mono so I get nothing but bass from it.

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I figured the factory bose amp and speakers would get you the mid and highs you need and you add on a sub to get a little more bass to round off the system.

Can you describe the distortion? 125 watts per channel isn't enough to blow those factory bose speakers but hooking them up incorrectly(negative positive) will give you distortion at higher levels.

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I figured the factory bose amp and speakers would get you the mid and highs you need and you add on a sub to get a little more bass to round off the system.

Can you describe the distortion? 125 watts per channel isn't enough to blow those factory bose speakers but hooking them up incorrectly(negative positive) will give you distortion at higher levels.

It's more like 62.5 x 4 and 500 x 1 @ 2ohms. At about half volume the driver front speaker in the dash starts to crackle a little. And when the volume is around 1/4 only the passenger rear sounds like it's the only speaker playing.

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How did you wire aftermarket amp? Did you use speaker level inputs? Have you disconnected the bose noise cancelling mics?

I bought it to a local audio installer to put everything in. I'm not exactly sure how they did it but I know they went off of the wires from the factory bose amp in the back of the rear seats.

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Take some pics and maybe it's something easy we can see?

Amp wiring is what I'm suspecting.

But if you had an installer do it the best thing to do is take it back to them to troubleshoot it.

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If your installers were trying to run the speaker level signals from the Bose amp directly into your Kicker amp without a good Line Out Converter, they could end up with problems like you are describing. Even if the Kicker amp accepts speaker level inputs (if they went that route), it could still be causing the Bose amp to detect clipping and cause it to cut the signal. My understanding is that the Bose amp is made to detect the circuit load to prevent clipping. If it detects a load with an impedance out of its threshold, it will cut the signal. The installer may also have some phase problems going on, but I would imagine an out-of-phase speaker would be barely noticeable.

If they have the new amp wired where it’s trying to grab a pre-amp signal between the head unit and the Bose amp... that is a complicated endeavor and you would have issues with stuff like door-chimes and phone calls coming from only 1 speaker as well as no volume-control.

Mostly likely, they tapped into the speaker wires leaving the Bose amp. Adding a new amp downstream from the existing Bose amp is do-able and a good method. I did it that way for a sub on mine with a LOC, and typically it’s the easiest way to grab your signal. I have heard of people having trouble with using the cheap LOC’s, like the PAC models due to the Bose’s finicky circuitry. So I can tell you what does work (from personal experience with my ’14 Sierra with Bose) and from researching other people’s installs, is using something like AudioControl’s LC6i or JL’s Cleansweep (which I haven’t used). Also, using either of those products would help if you’re experiencing a problem where the installers wired the signal into your amp from an actively filtered signals (like a line to the tweeters on the dash), by using the signal summing features. That’s just speculation though, that might not be an issue either, but it would explain a problem if you weren’t getting a full spectrum signal to your new amp.

One of the problems with letting other people mess with your stereo is that you don't know what they did and can't work on it yourself. But on the flip side, they need to make it work, so I'd go back to them and get them to fix it. If they sell you a LOC with the install, I’d check out AudioControl’s products or JL if you’re a fan and don’t mind spending more. Good luck!

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If your installers were trying to run the speaker level signals from the Bose amp directly into your Kicker amp without a good Line Out Converter, they could end up with problems like you are describing. Even if the Kicker amp accepts speaker level inputs (if they went that route), it could still be causing the Bose amp to detect clipping and cause it to cut the signal. My understanding is that the Bose amp is made to detect the circuit load to prevent clipping. If it detects a load with an impedance out of its threshold, it will cut the signal. The installer may also have some phase problems going on, but I would imagine an out-of-phase speaker would be barely noticeable.

If they have the new amp wired where it’s trying to grab a pre-amp signal between the head unit and the Bose amp... that is a complicated endeavor and you would have issues with stuff like door-chimes and phone calls coming from only 1 speaker as well as no volume-control.

Mostly likely, they tapped into the speaker wires leaving the Bose amp. Adding a new amp downstream from the existing Bose amp is do-able and a good method. I did it that way for a sub on mine with a LOC, and typically it’s the easiest way to grab your signal. I have heard of people having trouble with using the cheap LOC’s, like the PAC models due to the Bose’s finicky circuitry. So I can tell you what does work (from personal experience with my ’14 Sierra with Bose) and from researching other people’s installs, is using something like AudioControl’s LC6i or JL’s Cleansweep (which I haven’t used). Also, using either of those products would help if you’re experiencing a problem where the installers wired the signal into your amp from an actively filtered signals (like a line to the tweeters on the dash), by using the signal summing features. That’s just speculation though, that might not be an issue either, but it would explain a problem if you weren’t getting a full spectrum signal to your new amp.

One of the problems with letting other people mess with your stereo is that you don't know what they did and can't work on it yourself. But on the flip side, they need to make it work, so I'd go back to them and get them to fix it. If they sell you a LOC with the install, I’d check out AudioControl’s products or JL if you’re a fan and don’t mind spending more. Good luck!

 

thanks man i appreciate it greatly

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