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What transfer case do I have?


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How do i find out what transfer case I have? Can I use my VIN to find it?

 

I'm 90% mine has gone out. I've replaced the dash switch and front diff actuator, and I know the transfer case actuator works, I can hear it engage and disengage properly.

 

With the high miles, I am going to try and source a junkyard transfer case. I drive it maybe 2,000 miles a year now, but it would be nice to have 4WD in the snow again.

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Crawl under and look, there is a tag on the case that will say what it is.

 

But there is no way I would replace the transfer case, there is no way to know what the problem really is. I would get it scanned to start. And if the case is messed up, having a rebuild done may be a better solution than getting a used case with lots of wear.

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I've had the truck scanned, and there are no codes. A rebuild will cost $1,500. I'm looking for something around $500 at the most. I understand I'm sacrificing some quality going this route, but the truck has almost 300,000 miles and just needs to get from A to B....in the snow. If the used transfer case is like any other truck here in the Kansas City area, there will probably be 0 miles on the transfer case.

 

The truck is in great shape otherwise. Everything works...except the 4WD. I have a daily driver, so this just sits now until I need to use it.

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Gotcha. I forgot you're in KC. If you get a new case you might look at putting in a case saver. My mechanic put one in and it's given me peace of mind.

I have thought about that. I put one on a car I had in High School, and it definitely made a difference. I was unable to break the transmission where the case saver was....it was way stronger than my lead foot!

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BS on the cost to rebuild it before its even on a bench,,,

 

this is a simple unit ,,,,,the process is this ,,,

 

the t case comes out and apart ,,,it is inspected ,,,,,a price list is presented to you ,,,you say ya or na ,,,,

 

if the cost to rebuild the case is over a rebuilt unit THAT will be presented to you for authorization ,,,,,

 

that is how its done ,

 

ya dont just go and replace it ,,,,,

 

stay away FROM USED CRAP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

ya know that phrase "you're doin it wrong"? well thats for you bud

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BS on the cost to rebuild it before its even on a bench,,,

 

this is a simple unit ,,,,,the process is this ,,,

 

the t case comes out and apart ,,,it is inspected ,,,,,a price list is presented to you ,,,you say ya or na ,,,,

 

if the cost to rebuild the case is over a rebuilt unit THAT will be presented to you for authorization ,,,,,

 

that is how its done ,

 

ya dont just go and replace it ,,,,,

 

stay away FROM USED CRAP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

ya know that phrase "you're doin it wrong"? well thats for you bud

Rob, all of your posts crack me up! I picture you as the guy that sits at a cafe somewhere and sort of yells at the computer screen when you respond to people's posts. Most of the time you just post "Scan for codes" or "Take it to a dealer". Speaking for myself, I use this site as my diagnostic tool so I don't have to go to the dealer.

 

You confuse me with your statement that a shop would charge more to rebuild a transfer case.....when they would also try to sell me a "rebuilt" transfer case for less. Wouldn't that be the exact same transfer case in the end? Rebuilt is rebuilt in my book.

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I know, I know. I do understand what you are saying. What my question is, how do they rebuild them? Where is the magical place that they are getting rebuilt for less than what the shop wants to charge to fix it?

 

My guess, there is some cheap labor factory that cranks out numerous amounts of these at a time. Am I close?!?

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It's like if you went to a parts store and ordered a rebuilt through them. The manufacturers buy the parts to fix it in bulk so they get them a lot cheaper and they have the skills to do it in half the time cause that's what they do. If your local shop does it their parts cost is going to be higher than a manufacturers because they don't buy in bulk plus they don't rebuild them nearly as often so it takes them longer and they will charge you for it

 

Hope I got it right, I'm typing on my phone lol

 

Sent while in 'Murica...

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How do i find out what transfer case I have? Can I use my VIN to find it?

 

I'm 90% mine has gone out. I've replaced the dash switch and front diff actuator, and I know the transfer case actuator works, I can hear it engage and disengage properly.

 

With the high miles, I am going to try and source a junkyard transfer case. I drive it maybe 2,000 miles a year now, but it would be nice to have 4WD in the snow again.

 

Is it a 2500 or a 2500hd? Is it push button with 3 buttons, push button with 4 buttons (auto at the top)? If its auto 4 button, its rpo NP8, the NVG246 transfer case. If its the 3 button 4x4, its the NVG263 transfer case.

Edited by newdude
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Thanks newdude! It's a 2500 with the auto 4.

 

Could anyone diagnose a possible problem based on these symptoms?

 

- When raised on jack stands, the front wheels will turn in 4WD...but way slower than the rear wheels.

- When on the ground, I can tell the front wheels are not pulling at all (gravel burnout results in only rear tire action)

 

I'v replaced the front diff actuator and the actual dash switch, and haven't noticed any difference. I can hear the shift actuator engaging and disengaging, but I'm not completely sold it does in fact work properly.

 

govtech4, I believe this is the part where you say take it to a dealer. :D

Edited by sahls01gmc
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the auto 4wd works like this ,the front diff actuator is ON,the big shift fork and 8 clutches are waiting for wheel slip and then the encoder moves that fork over clamping the 8 fiber and steel plates together locking the front output,and you have instant 4wd ,,,

 

if that doesnt happen ,,,,a scanner is needed because its controlled by a module to rule out electrical ,then its mechanical inside the t case ,,,,,

 

a 4x4 shop can do it but there is more experience at a dealer ,,,its ALL they do is GM t cases ,,,,,i did a few in my sleep ,,,,there was this one and it ,,,,,,,,lol

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the auto 4wd works like this ,the front diff actuator is ON,the big shift fork and 8 clutches are waiting for wheel slip and then the encoder moves that fork over clamping the 8 fiber and steel plates together locking the front output,and you have instant 4wd ,,,

 

if that doesnt happen ,,,,a scanner is needed because its controlled by a module to rule out electrical ,then its mechanical inside the t case ,,,,,

 

a 4x4 shop can do it but there is more experience at a dealer ,,,its ALL they do is GM t cases ,,,,,i did a few in my sleep ,,,,there was this one and it ,,,,,,,,lol

Rob....Thank you! I think you cleared everything up now!

 

The test I did with the jackstands was with the truck in 4HI, not Auto. I did have it scanned for codes, and nothing came up. So based upon what you are telling me, it is indeed mechanical.

 

I believe my next step is to have it looked at by a shop....damn....just like you were thinking!

 

I really do appreciate your help, this forum definitely gave me a great understanding....rather than just going to a dealer blindly.

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