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Cleaning, waxing and using a paint sealer on my new truck


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When I picked up my new truck I decided to give the new truck a good wax job, but the hood especially felt a little rough - kind of gritty - anyway, not glass smooth. So, the first thing I did was clay the hood. What a change - the hood was as smooth as glass after claying - and it is so easy - much easier than waxing. A little research found that wax is only good for about 6 to 8 weeks and then needs to be waxed again (I suspect that is if you want a deep shine as the wax still beads water after 8 weeks so it probably is still protecting the paint).

 

But I read about paint sealing and it's suppose to last from 6 to 8 months - a big difference - and the sealer is suppose to be easier than waxing also.

 

But, my questions is - do you apply the paint sealer over the existing wax or do I need to remove the wax before I seal the paint?

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Already waxed the truck a few days ago after I clayed it - before I read about the paint sealer :-( So, seal or don't seal? Wait for a couple of months, then seal?

 

Gotta say tho, using the clay bar on a new truck certainly is the way to go (first time I've used clay on a vehicle) - what an amazing difference in the smoothness after claying!

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When I first got my truck I also clay bared the whole thing. Then I added a product called JetSeal, made by Chemical Guys. Then I added their Butterwet wax. That pic in my sig is right after I did it. Their stuff is super easy to work with. Easy on, easy off.

 

The Jetseal can last a VERY long time. I did it about a year ago, and I think I needs to be redone. I waxed maybe 3-4 times during the year. Along with a wash every month or so. I will claybar the truck again and redo the whole process in preparation for winter.

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Claying removes the bonded contaminants on a paints surface and is always worth the slight effort. Not all waxes only last six weeks. It depends on the particular wax that you are using.The same goes for sealants. There are many types and durability is determined by several factors. Each sealant has different paint prep procedures. Typically though, they all require a surface free of waxes or glazes to work best.

 

My typical process for a detail with a sealant is to clay, use a polish to removes swirls and paint defects. I apply a paint cleaner to remove any residual oils from the polish step. I then apply the sealant. Sealants like Zaino are finicky and need to be used with their accompanying products. Some others have their own cleaning component to them and do't need that step.

 

Many folks apply a coat of wax on top of the sealant for a look of a wax with the protective base of a sealant. However, you have to make sure you are using a wax free of cleaners or you'll be removing the sealant underneath.

 

What wax and sealant are you using?

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Claying removes the bonded contaminants on a paints surface and is always worth the slight effort. Not all waxes only last six weeks. It depends on the particular wax that you are using.The same goes for sealants. There are many types and durability is determined by several factors. Each sealant has different paint prep procedures. Typically though, they all require a surface free of waxes or glazes to work best.

 

My typical process for a detail with a sealant is to clay, use a polish to removes swirls and paint defects. I apply a paint cleaner to remove any residual oils from the polish step. I then apply the sealant. Sealants like Zaino are finicky and need to be used with their accompanying products. Some others have their own cleaning component to them and do't need that step.

 

Many folks apply a coat of wax on top of the sealant for a look of a wax with the protective base of a sealant. However, you have to make sure you are using a wax free of cleaners or you'll be removing the sealant underneath.

 

What wax and sealant are you using?

 

Your avatar made me lol.

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I'm using Mother's Calif Gold carnauba paste wax because I have had a can of this for years. Doing some research on how to smooth out the roughness of the truck hood I discovered the clay bar process. So I am trying to learn what to use to mostly protect the truck paint as well as make it shine. I do not think I want any $175 carnauba wax nor the top of the line other products, but I would like to take care of the truck - blue granite metallic.

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There are a lot of products online that are not $175 nor top of the line. Based on what you use, I'd recommend Poorboy's Polish with Sealant. It will clean and lightly polish the paint and lay down a coat of protective sealant. Optimum makes a product called Poli-Seal which works very similarly. Both apply quite well by hand. I know Adams is a sponsor here, but I haven't personally use any of their products, so I can't give you any real world experience.A simple google search will turn up a local or online distributor of the stuff I mentioned.

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Seal then POLISH. Leave the wax to the bees.

No, you have to polish the bare paint. There's no point in polishing if the paint is already sealed, and no point in sealing the paint if you're going to just strip the wax off with polish

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No, you have to polish the bare paint. There's no point in polishing if the paint is already sealed, and no point in sealing the paint if you're going to just strip the wax off with polish

 

I think the problem here is the many different meanings of the word "polish". It can be a chemical or abrasive product meant to remove swirls like Menzerna Final Polish, It can be used as a term for a one step product like Zymol Liquid Polish. I can also refer to a true sealant with no cleaning abilities like Zaino Show Car Polish.

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I have been using Rejex for some time now. Used to use it on my Vette. Used in lieu of wax or polish. Gives a very high gloss shine that lasts months. Only needs washed as necessary. just apply, let haze, wip off with lint free towel. The longer you let it cure the better, as with most products. I usually put it on at night and wipe off in a.m. Only ~$14 a bottle and will do truck about three to four times. Works on the wheels and windows too. Helps bugs and junk wash off easier. My .02 anyway.

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Seal then POLISH. Leave the wax to the bees.

um no.

 

here check out these guides. there are some proper techniques here.

 

http://www.oldetownautospa.ca/blogs/news/16195067-guide-to-general-vehicle-cleaning-maintenance

 

http://www.oldetownautospa.ca/blogs/news/15334703-otas-guide-to-machine-polishing

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Seal then POLISH. Leave the wax to the bees.

You need wax for sure! I would personally recommend 'Americana Paste Wax' from Adams Polishes. Although it's pretty pricey I don't think you can beat it.
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  • 3 months later...

I think the issue at hand is terminology and misuse of the word "polish". Many people think "polish" means to shine, like waxing, which isn't true.

 

The order of operations should be as follows;

1.) Give it a good wash. Duh!

2.) Clay bar. This removes contaminants so you don't further damage the surface in the next steps.

3.) Repair paint. This is truly "polishing". This is the step which uses abrasives to remove small scratches and swirl marks. It makes the surface appear more shiny because it's smoother. It can be done with a machine or by hand. In either case, be sure to use a quality product with the appropriate pads and in the correct order.

4.) Apply sealant. At this point the paint should be bare and smooth. I prefer to go over the entire vehicle with prepsol or other degreaser to ensure that there are no residual oils left behind. We need to be sure to apply the sealant to a 100% bare surface.

5.) Shine it up. You can use a wax or a glaze here, it's you're choice. Be careful if you're using a paste wax with a carnuba base. You don't want to build up too many layers here. I prefer a glaze on a daily driver, especially in hotter climates.

6.) Maintain it. In between wax jobs just keep the truck clean. I wash mine every other week and dry with a waffle towel and spray detailer. This maintains the shine for several months and doesn't remove the wax or sealant.

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