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97 yukon 5.7l no fuel no spark


celticwild

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I have a 97 yukon 5.7L no spark no fuel. Checked fuel pump relay. It was good but when I jumped my ecu it turns on. No spark from coil. Checked coil it's good. So I checked my control module it was bad so replaced it still no spark. I checked my crankshaft position sensor. It's geting 12 v and has ground but when I hooked up to the control wire it was only geting .061v. Would that c ouse my no fuel pump to turn on? And on a side note my turn signals dont work at the bulbs and my colum. But my hazerds work all around. Please any idea would help. Oh fuses are all good

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I unhooked the fuel lines and manually cranked the engine. I tryed hooking up a code scaner and it was loading but could not conect to the ECM. It read conectshon error. I'm thinken I'm just goen to get a new sensor and see if that works. I also noticed that the distributor cap was loose on the cam shaft tower. One of the two screws is striped.

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How do I test for a short?

 

If you have a "short" circuit problem, you will have a blown fuse. Unless that circuit is protected with a circuit breaker. All auto circuit breakers that I have ever come across are self resetting.

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The screw will not strip on its own while driving. It is very likely that the previous owner or someone he took the truck to for work stripped the screw. If you are lucky, it is the screw only that is stripped, but, it may very be the housing that is stripped. Unfortunately the housing is not easily repaired, and having to replace something for just a stripped threaded hole is ridiculous.

 

That being said, this is one of those things that has both a bad and a good side to it.

 

Complete brand new distributors are available on that big auction site for anywhere from $50 to $250 for a brand new billet, sometimes complete, distributor assembly. Use "1997 Yukon 5.7 distributor billet" for search terms. Oddly enough, those search terms will also bring up new cap and rotor kits that cost just about the same as a complete new distributor.

 

As for the ECM not being found by the scan tool, it must be something very simple if the truck ran last week, and just stopped running. The simplest thing to verify is that you had the key turned on.

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Connecting a scan tool is very easy to do. It is just a single plug under the steering column. If you are having issues with the ALDL connector you will need to correct that first. Your truck is ODB-II compliant. Make sure your scan tool is for ODB-II (or ODB-2). Plug scan tool in with key in the off position. After connecting, turn the ignition on. You should be able to see some activity on the scan tool display.

 

We seem to also have some differences in what parts are called. When you say "cam shaft tower", do you mean the "distributor" assembly? If you are lucky it will just be the screw that is damaged, and not the distributor itself. These screws do not need to tightened down much more than snug.

 

After doing some searching with Google (something I would have hoped you already did) it appears that the distributor assembly has an issue with cap retaining screws stripping, both in the housing and the actual screws. When you replace the cap with new screws, pay attention to how the screws tighten. They should tighten without stripping. NOTE that stripped cap screws have been known to cause the no start condition you originally reported.

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Pedal is hard because engine not running. Any sensor that exceeds 5v is very likely defective. You need to find a manual that has the troubleshooting tree(flowchart) in it. Do not think the crank sensor has any impact on fuel pump though. If it were me, I would get the fuel pump working first.

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I have a 97 yukon that keeps throwing a p1351. I have 60 PSI on fuel and I have spark. Still won't start. I put in a new ignition control module, crankshaft position sensor, fuel filter, coil, cap and rotor. Still thrown that code. Idk what it could be. Any new info would help.

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I don't know how you tested the crank position sensor, but, from what I can find it is a simple procedure, but, it is also very specific in how to perform the test. I found a site that gives a step by step way to test the crank position sensor. See http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the-crank-sensor-2

 

This sensor is supposed to have either 0 or 5 volts on the control wire, ground on one wire, and battery voltage on the last of the three wires. The control wire will have zero volts before the shutter wheel enters the sensor window, and 5 volts after it enters the window. It will return to zero volts as it clears the window.

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What do u mean I had the key turned on? I went to start it tonight and noticed that the clock turns off when cranking and turns back on when I stop. The clock also turns off when the head lights get turned on and the clock turns back on as soon as i turn the lights off

Sounds like your battery has a really weak charge or needs to be replaced. I would get that battery tested before pressing forward with anything else.

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What do u mean I had the key turned on? I went to start it tonight and noticed that the clock turns off when cranking and turns back on when I stop. The clock also turns off when the head lights get turned on and the clock turns back on as soon as i turn the lights off

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Have u ever used the yellow fuse tester that lights up a small green light if the fuse is good? If so do u trust them? I normally use a test light and test both prongs. My test light works on only some of the fuses and and only one 10. But the yellow light thing always comes on

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