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Extended Cab doors speaker replacement


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#1 blacksab2

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Posted 10 March 2003 - 12:08 PM

I own a 2002 Silverado extended cab with 4 doors and am going to replace the speakers in the rear doors.....Can anyone tell me how the rear door inner panels come off to replace the speakers?....Thanks in advance...... :crackup:
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What Would Ozzy Do?  

Dont poke the bear.....

2002 Silverado 5.3 Z71 Ext Cab SB Indigo Blue - Magnaflow exhaust, Bedrug, Westin stepbars, K&N filter, Alpine stereo w/ Sirius radio and more.
1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL - Work car
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#2 cowboy02

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Posted 10 March 2003 - 01:09 PM

Nice Truck..... Great color :thumb:
Sorry no help on the speakers, I would call a stereo shop they should be able to tell ya how :crackup:

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2006 GMC 1500 Crew cab 4x4 Z71
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#3 Markd

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Posted 10 March 2003 - 01:18 PM

There are 2 7mm screws in the door.  One in the bottom of the hand grip, and one in the bottom of the cup-holder.

After you remove them, remove the gromet (trim colored plastic) around the door handle.

Then start at the top inside(corner closest to truck when door is open), and pull on the door panel.  There are "press" fittings all around the door.

There is a hanger/weight support between the doors' pull handle and door handle.  Once you have pulled out all of the press fittings, lift up on the door panel approximately 3-4" and it should come right off.  

I have pics somewhere if you are interested, but I don't have them online, I will have to e-mail them.

"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"

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2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD CC Z71 SLT D-Max Stealth Grey Metallic

EX-03 GMC Sierra K1500 ECSB Z71 SLT Pewter

R.I.P. 2002 GMC Sierra K1500 ECSB Z71 SLT White

Ex-1999 GMC Sierra 1500 3dr Z71 SL Gray

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#4 blacksab2

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Posted 11 March 2003 - 01:27 PM

Thanks for the info MarkD.....Here's another dumb question:I'm buying 4X6 plate speakers for the rear doors....Plate speakers have seperate mid's and tweeters.....Which way should the plate be mounted for best sound?...With the tweeter forward or rear?.....Just a thought that entered my head being they can be mounted either way....
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What Would Ozzy Do?  

Dont poke the bear.....

2002 Silverado 5.3 Z71 Ext Cab SB Indigo Blue - Magnaflow exhaust, Bedrug, Westin stepbars, K&N filter, Alpine stereo w/ Sirius radio and more.
1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL - Work car
1983 Cadillac Fleetwood - 31,000 original miles
2005 Nissan Murano - Wife's car

                           

#5 Cyclic

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Posted 11 March 2003 - 08:06 PM

Before you go too far................. I used to work at Circuit City, and we replaced many a rear 4x6 in the new trucks with 5 1/4 by just triming a little and a small sheet of Dynomat. Provides a huge improvement over ANY 4x6 set up.
2002 GMC SLE 2WD, 3inch lift, little here and a little there, with a nitrous dioxide kicker for that warm all over feeling.

#6 WhiteHorse

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Posted 13 April 2003 - 03:11 PM

whats a good 5.25 speaker for replacement???
I am keeping the stock head unit


#7 Cyclic

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Posted 13 April 2003 - 03:41 PM

I'm partial to Polk speakers, but for running on the stock deck the best bang for the buck would be some regular two way Kenwood or equivelent speakers. It should run you about 60 to 110 for a decent pair of 5 1/4's. Also remember to get soem dynomat material to put under them to help seal the door after the cut is made. If you have any questions on putting them in go by a Circuit City and talk to their installers and tell them what you are trying to do. You can also by speaker harness adaptors from them to make the wires plug and play.
2002 GMC SLE 2WD, 3inch lift, little here and a little there, with a nitrous dioxide kicker for that warm all over feeling.

#8 kaspar139

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Posted 09 July 2003 - 07:24 PM

Hey guys, I bought some 4x6 clarions. I pulled the rear door off as described by MarkD. Everything went as planned, however...the way the speaker is connect to the door is by a clip. This means I am going to have to drill new holes to mount my speaker. Consequently, I don't know how to do that, so I can "screw" the speaker to the door. In other words, how will the threading work and all that...I am not too sure of that. I put it all back on, because I didn't want to just start drilling and mess it up.

Also, is dynomat something I could get at Best Buy or Circuit CIty?

Thanks! :cheers:
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#9 GF7PE

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Posted 09 July 2003 - 07:34 PM

dynomat=yes but you can find it much cheaper on ebay, I have heard that brown bread makes a good product also

for the 4x6's use some sheet metal screws and a small bit to start the hole or just get some tek screws (self taping sheet metal screws) just dont over tighten
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#10 kaspar139

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Posted 10 July 2003 - 08:06 AM

Ok, good reply on the self tapping sheet metal screws, I totally forgot about those! Good call. :cheers:

Another question, how to remove the FRONT door of the same extended cab? It has electrical stuff all over the place, light, locks, etc... this would be a WHOLE lot simpler if the grille came off giving you access to the speaker. :sigh:

On that note, my front doors have holes for 6.5" speakers AND a 3.5" speaker. The 3.5" speaker is what Chevy put in there! I was pissed, I thought I had at least a 6.5" stock up there, but not so.

Thanks. :uhoh:
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'01 Black Silverado Ext. Cab Z-71 LS
5.3L V8
4.10 Precision Gears
Rhino bed liner
DeeZee Tool Box
NFab Nerf Bars
Flowmaster cat back
4" Rancho Suspesion Lift
33x12.5-16.5" BFG M/T
American Eagle 589's (16.5x9.75)
Kaspar's Beast or Car Domain Pics

#11 GF7PE

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Posted 10 July 2003 - 08:24 AM

pop the control panel out, the one with the window and door lock buttons there is a hex head screw there and one under the handle, take those out pop the triange piece out at the top by the side vent then pull straight up
2002 Chevy 2500 hd cc sb pewter 6.0 4.10 29000 miles
fabtech 6" 35x14.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers, Westers 93, piaa airdam, airaid, borla cat back, line x

#12 kaspar139

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Posted 10 July 2003 - 08:26 AM

Does it have all the rivets around the door like the rear door?
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'01 Black Silverado Ext. Cab Z-71 LS
5.3L V8
4.10 Precision Gears
Rhino bed liner
DeeZee Tool Box
NFab Nerf Bars
Flowmaster cat back
4" Rancho Suspesion Lift
33x12.5-16.5" BFG M/T
American Eagle 589's (16.5x9.75)
Kaspar's Beast or Car Domain Pics

#13 GF7PE

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Posted 10 July 2003 - 09:33 AM

NO

once the screws are out just grab the arm rest and pick up. the only thing that will get in the way is the plastic part around the door handle but that pops out easily. Watch for the speaker wire that goes to the tweeter and the wire that goes to the light on the door panel. easy once you have done it
2002 Chevy 2500 hd cc sb pewter 6.0 4.10 29000 miles
fabtech 6" 35x14.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers, Westers 93, piaa airdam, airaid, borla cat back, line x

#14 kaspar139

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Posted 10 July 2003 - 10:05 AM

Very cool! WHy did they go away from the snapping rivets on the front, and have them EVERYWHERE else? Seems a bit bizarre.

Thanks for the info! :cheers:
Posted Image
'01 Black Silverado Ext. Cab Z-71 LS
5.3L V8
4.10 Precision Gears
Rhino bed liner
DeeZee Tool Box
NFab Nerf Bars
Flowmaster cat back
4" Rancho Suspesion Lift
33x12.5-16.5" BFG M/T
American Eagle 589's (16.5x9.75)
Kaspar's Beast or Car Domain Pics

#15 Air Biscuit

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Posted 06 August 2003 - 02:49 PM

I must be stoopid. My tweeter fell out yesterday. When I was trying to get the door panel off, I couldn't find a way to pop the cover for the switches (windows, mirrors, locks) in order to get at the last bolt. I tried to pry it with a screwdriver but backed off when it didn't give.

And how do you get the triangle plastic piece off (the one at the top of the panel.)? It seems like it's glued on.

I don't have time to leave my truck at the dealer right now so any help would be appreciated. Thanks very much.
White '02 Sierra 4X4 extended cab, 5.3, 4.10s, K&N flat panel, Nokian Vatiiva A/T LT 265s, Rhinoliner, Westers tune, and some other stuff.




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