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Hey guys, I built a box to go behind the seat of my 87 k10. The dimensions are 36.5x42.25 8 inches wide on the bottom and 4 on the top. Eventually when I get more wood, I will make it longer. I have 2 kicker comp 10s. They sound decent, but not the greatest. They're kinda loud, but lack body. Will different speakers help? I thought about getting rockford fosgate 10s or jl audio 12s. I only have a little more than 5 inches of mounting depth. Someone even said to put a third 10. What do y'all think? I have them on a class a/b 2000 watt amp.

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Well, Kicker comp 10's is about as broad as it gets now. Almost all of the Kicker subs are comp's. What I need to know is if they are CompD's, CompS's, CVR's, CVX's, CWR's, CompRT's, you see where I am going with this. Not all of them require the same mounting depth so on and so forth. When I do a system build, I build around a subwoofer. Basically, choose what you can fit in your vehicle, dimension wise, then choose your sub, then customise the box specs from what the subwoofer requirements are. I use SonicElectronix for all of my builds. They usually have the best information on your subwoofer when it comes to what's required for the best sound.

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How thick is the wood you are using? Pick the sub you want and then build a box with the correct air space. You may find that the sub you want won't work in the space given.

If I were back in your shoes and dealing with a limited depth I would look at running 4 - 8" quality subs. You have not stated how much power you have, nor have you stated what kind of music you listen to or the type of sound you want to achieve.

 

Save your money, spend more time researching, find out what the maximum internal volume is of the box you have or can build. You find the maximum and then reduce to fit your needs. Don't forget to take into account the thickness of the wood you are using and the volume that is displaced by the subwoofer you choose.

 

Making sure the box you are using will save you more money and get you better sound than finding the cheapest NEW sub you can find. I am willing to bet you can do some more research on your current subs and get a lot more out of them than you are currently getting.

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From your box, looks like you are going to need shallow.mounts to get the best sound. 10's will.be fine being I had 2 tens in my 06 but I did ALOT of research and matching to get everything right. Both hit hard for shallows and sounds crisp and clear with plenty of mid to high base with hints of lows. Really not ideal for lows with shallows but it's the really lows that usually don't hit much but it hits good. I had the year earlier kicker shallow.mounts but I have been told and read the new ones are even better than before so look into those as well. Also, poly fill in your friend in these situations to also "trick" the subs into thinking there is more space so you get a better sound quality overall. Another important note lol, when you change subs, you sometimes have to change the amp to match rms ratings. Rule of thumb I use is to definitely use a mono block amp and to make sure the rms rating on the amp is just 100 watts more being what comes out will usually not be what's making it to the subs anyhow.

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Sorry, I thought I said what amp I have in my first post. I have a class a/b 2000 watt amp. I listen to a little bit of everything. I am not tied down to any particular genre. I can get whatever thickness of wood I need.

 

Im looking to be able to get pretty loud, but without getting distorted, and being able to have a full bodied bassy sound, and be able to hit very low notes without sounding like its being played on a rubber band.

 

I currently have the box loosely packed with polyfil. They just sound very distorted. Before the displacement of the speakers I have about 1.2 cubic feet of air. A little under optimum would generally be, but not crazy low. Would more air space do the trick?

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To hit very low you need 12's. 15's even but then you would need two bucket seats with custom built box in the center. Like I mentioned before, 10's will hit some lows, but obviously not the low lows lol. To If you can build a bigger box then go for it. It looks like you could add vents to it to help with sound. But with the small volume it has already, shallows are a must. You properly seal the inside with some flexible silicon? Any air escaping will distort sound as well. Also, I am assuming you have your amp set on LPF and bridged?

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I had 12s when I had my explorer. Best sounding system I ever had. And I wish I could fit a 15. We built a box for a 15 in my buddies mustang. That beats my 12s any day of the week.

 

What do you mean by adding vents?

 

On the silicone, Ive always used heavy duty liquid nails. And yes. Lpf and bridged.

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Hey guys, I built a box to go behind the seat of my 87 k10. The dimensions are 36.5x42.25 8 inches wide on the bottom and 4 on the top.

 

I am having a tough time with these dimensions. You might want to re-measure. could that have been 16.5 and not 36.5?

Then - http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm

 

No disrespect but, I also have a tough time believing you have a 2000w amp (or at least one that does 2000 watts). If it has 2000 stamped on the outside I would not believe it. As a matter of fact, I would have a tough time believing any numbers that are stamped on the outside of any amp. Most amplifiers that have stats on the outside of them are lying. I then would have a tough time believing your alternator on a '87 could deliver the amperage needed to supply an A/B amplifier with enough juice to actually get 2000 watts.

 

Not all amps are created equal. And your subs can only reproduce the signal that is sent to them. 2000 watts? At how many ohms? RMS? THD?

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Looking more closely at your pictures? How thick is the wood? Your front panel appears to be 3/8 of an inch. Good luck getting a decent sub, let alone a pair that can handle 2k watts to sound good with that much flex.

 

Do more research on box building. Your current subs will sound a ton better.

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