Happy With Bose Sound System?

Anon2015 · February 21, 2015

Here's why Bose has no complaints for the 2015 product year. Their system will not accept any make/model with a 2015 year. The customer facing system will not support it and the internal (customer no service system) won't support it either. The second reason is people are more likely to complain to GM (who doesn't listen very well either) than to Bose.

Dewayne308 · February 21, 2015

Thank you, Anon. I truly hope that there is a replacement. You are right. Both will not listen.

Wrench589 · February 22, 2015

Anon, I'm intrigued with that JBL DSP. Sounds like it could bring the sound alive from the muddy, lack-lustre Bose sound from the factory. But, how do you think the whole Noise Cancelling stuff would react to the DSP being in there? And, any thoughts on how one would integrate it in to the system? Between the head unit and the amp in the back?

You wouldn't happen to know if the signal between the head unit and the amp is standard 5v line level, or is it something else? Reason. Ask is that the older Bose systems in GM cars (my 1986 Corvette, for example) used a low amplified signal out of the head unit, so it was impossible the add any aftermarket equipment to the system. Each speaker had a power amp built into the enclosure to boost the low amp signal from the head unit. I wonder if they've done the same with this system?

If not, then the JBL could go between the head unit and the factory amp. Another option would be to ditch the factory amp and replace with a decent aftermarket, perhaps. But that brings up the next question - since the noise cancelling microphone are wired into the audio amp in the rear of the vehicle, is it possible that all the noise cancelling processing is done inside that amp? I suspect yes, unless they send all that info up to the head unit and it then incorporates the noise cancelling into the signal coming out of the head unit. But I don't see what the NC signal couldn't be incorporated into the signal at the amp, likely before amplification, but possibly even after or even during?? Just guessing here.

Of course, messing too much with the factory Nc could also render the Audiopilot useless which would be too bad. It actually does work (I tested it per your instructions and surprisingly, it did a pretty good job).

Any thoughts much appreciated. Of course, I do intend on complaining to GM but I know where that will go..... After all, what can they possibly do even if they wanted to. Would need a complete new design. Not likely going to happen.

Anon2015 · February 22, 2015

This unit (or it's replacement) would install (electrically) between the head unit and the amplifier.

Anon2015 · February 22, 2015

The report of the death of the MS8 appears to be premature. Where to purchase link...

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5342950520361401050?q=jbl+ms8&client=safari&hl=en&biw=375&bih=559&prds=paur%3AClkAsKraX66nfjYvFse7bYMOQK9psenybNodO41OQ6nrLroyzIg3Q690y1cSyjIO-nnAq89YtIrl36KGdqcG83DjxHSsWikZXyJg27azJQFXlR0E0XedFz152hIZAFPVH71mHVbmyvz6FZqqqhVtVMZeDG79tg&ei=tgzqVLG2OcyiNqGogagI&ved=0CGgQpiswAA

User manual link:

http://www.jbl.com/images/media/MS_8_OM_EN.pdf

Have fun...don't break anything.

Wrench589 · February 23, 2015

Thanks!

Wrench589 · March 1, 2015

The Bose system, as installed, is a horrid excuse for a sound system and completely wrong for a vehicle at this price point. Equally problematic is no you cannot upgrade to something else...at least at this time. It is tightly integrated into the "Infotainment" system. At some point in the future, maybe someone will come up with a clever solution. It is clear the decision to go with Bose was not made by anyone fully qualified to make that decision.

What you can do to make a big difference is have something like the JBL MS8 installed between the radio head unit and the amplifier. Beyond that would be a replacement for the speakers.

Anon, I've been studying the wiring diagram for the Yukon and from what I can see, the input to the amplifier (from the head unit) appears to be some kind of digital bus signal. There does not appear to be any analog inputs of any kind. I'm basing that on looking at the fact that there is a + and a - signal for each speaker location described, and that's it. Not marked as input or output, mind you. But if there was both analog input and analog output, I would expect to see both described in the wiring diagram. Not so.

Now, to make it confusing, there actually is a double set of left and right front tweeter terminals for some weird reason. And there is a Left Rear Midrange, but no Right Rear Midrange! No idea what that's all about! The only thing I can think is that there is no rear tweeters identified, so I'm thinking the diagram has an error and one of those sets of tweeters is for the rear tweeters.

So, if it is digital communication between the source (ie head unit) and the amp, hen we can't intercept the line-level with the MS8. But, I'm wondering if we can connect on the speaker level, coming out of he amp? Not sure how that would work, since the "cross-over" function is happening inside the amp. Would need to maybe use something like Kickers summing DSP to combine signals and then have and amp and then a cross-over to the speakers. Might get pretty complicated......

What do you think?

Dewayne308 · March 3, 2015

Wrench, if you have the speaker specs. for the 2015 Yukon Denali, please call the JBL Tech. He will answer some questions for you, but he does need the specs. on those speakers. JBL Tx. 800-336-4525. If you install the JBL MS-8 in your Denali, please reply with your comment. I have a 2015 Yukon Denali XL also. Thank you....

Wrench589 · March 4, 2015

Wrench, if you have the speaker specs. for the 2015 Yukon Denali, please call the JBL Tech. He will answer some questions for you, but he does need the specs. on those speakers. JBL Tx. 800-336-4525. If you install the JBL MS-8 in your Denali, please reply with your comment. I have a 2015 Yukon Denali XL also. Thank you....

Thanks, I was thinking of contacting JBL. Don't have any specs, but might try to get them. Won't be doing much on the audio system until I get the noise/buffeting issue sort out. Just doing some homework on it for now.

Wrench589 · March 16, 2015

Slight twist, for anyone that is interested. Guess what...your "10 speaker" system is only a 9 channel system. The two speakers at the very, very back of the vehicle, mounted up high in the pillar, facing forward, are connected together! Yes, one output from the amp driving two speakers. Bit of a cheat, if you ask me. But, the whole thing sounds poor and I don't think more channels is the answer!!

I've done a fair bit of research and best I can tell there is no easy solution. No one makes more than a 8 channel DSP, so a single box won't grab all the music info, sum it, re-process it (properly), and then output it to the speakers. Best I can come up with is adding a JL summing box to first sum the rear door and rear-rear mid bass speaker signals, then all that plus the fronts and sub into the JBL DSP. Then, output 8 channels and ditch those rear-rears. But, will need something to drive the subwoofer. Either an extra amp with built in cross over and sub out, or a standalone crossover to get the sub signal. Problem with the latter is won't have much power.

The other option is to use the input to the Bose amp. There are only 4 channels LF, RF, LR, and RR). Skip the Bose amp, use the DSP, buy a nice 5 channel amp and a couple of crossovers for the fronts and should sound great. "Problem" will be, there will be absolutely no Noise Cancellation, no AudioPilot (speed compensation), and any other fancy, smancy stuff Bose is doing. Some will say that's great, but I'm not so sure.

Stay "tuned"!

Dewayne308 · March 16, 2015

Thanks Wrench. That was very interesting. I want to improve this system, but don't know how to resolve the issues. Please inform us if you have found the solution.

Anon2015 · March 16, 2015

Wrench ... what is being output from the BluRay head? L/R or a single wire? or?

Wrench589 · March 22, 2015

Wrench ... what is being output from the BluRay head? L/R or a single wire? or?

Looks like there is a +/- wire for each of 4 channels: LF, RF, LR and RR, for a total of 8 wires. These go from the dash unit to the back and connect to the Bose amp. Then, there are +/- wires going from the amp to the speakers.

I am basing this on the wiring diagram as well as the connectors at the amp. I did find a couple of errors on the wiring diagram - wires that are not physically present on the connector. Turns out, makes more sense without the extra wires shown on the diagram!

I have not played around to see what kind of voltage is present in the connection between the head unit and the amp. I am pretty sure if I do anything, it will be on the output side of the amp, so the noise cancelling being done in the amp is still active. Hopefully a DSP doesn't mess that up, though!

Also haven't checked the resistance of the speakers to see what Bose is using. At least nowadays, most aftermarket amps can drive down to 2 ohms. Hopefully they haven't done something stupid like use 1 ohm speakers!

Dabunkster · April 1, 2015

Not sure if you have solved your issue yet or not. But being the owner of a 2015 suburban, I too was disappointed with the sound. However I have fixed it....to the best of, what I think, is available. With 1 caveat. Your only answer is to install a DSP and an aftermarket amp. The DSP needs to be installed after the bose amp, which is located in the rear of the vehicle behind the jack. My research led me to believe that if you install before the amp, the "data" which includes the music and onstar, and turn signals, and warning chimes, and....will not work. I installed a mosconi 6to8 DSP. I tapped the front channel speaker wire coming OUT of the amp and sent to ch1/2 of the DSP, Tapped the rear door speakers OUT of the amp to ch3/4 and the sub channels to ch5/6. Then it is about wiring the outs of the DSP to the INS of the aftermarket amp (in my case a JL 900/5, awesome amp) and tie the amp back into the speakers. The only issue I have is that instead of having a separate speaker for your warning chimes and turn signal clicker like they did back around the 2004 models. GM in their infinite wisdom sends that signal to the front left channel. With that said, it too gets amplified just like your music. So you have to spend a lot of time adjusting the input sensitivity pots on the DSP and the amp so the turn signal clicker does not blow you out of the truck, while still providing you with the volume you expect. The DSP has a mixer, time correction, equalizer, and individual channel gains you can tweek to your hearts content. Someone above mentioned using a JL signal summer to help get all signals to a loc for install. While I haven't tried this, the DSP does have a mixer that accomplishes the same thing. However remember that amplified turn signal clicker I mentioned? If you sum the signals, all of a sudden you will have the turn signal clicker coming out of every speaker (or at least the rear drivers side speaker depending on how you set it up) and believe me the echo is unbearable.

Overall I'm happy with the install. I can run about 98-101 dbs with clean sound and an annoying but tolerable turn signal clicker. I have gotten used to it, and so has my friends and family, but if I have a stranger in the car they look at me like wtf...If its that big of a deal I back down the gains a little more till the turn signal sounds "stock" and can still push about 84-88 dbs before the head unit starts to distort.

Hope this helps.

Dewayne308 · April 7, 2015

Thank you Dabunkster. That was excellent info. Where did you mount the aftermarket amp? That is a compact amp and should not take much space. Was there anything else that was necessary to purchase for this install? I'm a novice and may try to install this myself, or do you advise against that ideal? (lol) Sounds like this may be the solution for my 2015 GMC Yukon also. I was told that the warning chimes and the turn signal clicker should be wired to the center speaker and will not be amplified from there, by the aftermarket amp. Any improvement in this system would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.