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Anyone try a JL Audio stealth box yet?


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Ordered the Kicker 200w setup. Should have it by mid next week.

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  • 5 months later...

Ordered the Kicker 200w setup. Should have it by mid next week.

 

How did the Kicker setup work out?

 

Looking for a decent setup that is simple for my new 2015 Hugh Country. Had 1000w amp and with sub in my SS, but never really used the power of it. Just want a little more kick than this factory setup is providing...

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I'm very happy with the setup. Doesn't rattle my windows, but compliments everything just fine.

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I had a box built with the factory under seat storage. Two JL Audio W1 10" 300W, one JL Audio 600W Monoblock Class D Subwoofer Amplifier, and a JBL MS-8 Digital Sound Processor. The processor helped keep the bass clean and it also improved the factory Bose speakers. Clear and crisp sound.

 

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Update:

 

We were finally able to get everything worked out in the truck. In the end I trashed the Bose Speakers and ended up installing:

 

2 Clean Sweeps, one for the sub and one for the new C5 Componet Speakers for the front and rear. The sub is powered by HD-750 and the speakers by HD 600. While it took some time to get it right, the truck sounds fantastic! It had deep rich rolling base, the problem now is that I'm getting rid of it for a 2016 due to a leak in the frame filling the passenger side with water since the day I've had it. Less than 5k miles on it :-(

 

I just hope I have better luck with the 16.

 

I'll post some pictures, tomorrow.

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  • 4 weeks later...

How does the kicker sound with the Bose?? Did it add a good amount of bass?

It compliments the BOSE nicely, and does not overpower it with Bass.

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I scrapped the whole system.

I'm not impressed with any Bose system. The system in my wife's Denali is not up to snuff by any stretch. My stock system was what I expected.

Since my truck was a non Bose, I left the head until Alpine releases their new 9" design for our trucks.

 

I went with Memphis sound 300 amp to the M class door and dash speakers. A 200 amp for twin 10" M class subs, and a 200 amp line out converter with remote adjustable base.

IMO, a quality line out is the most important piece to the puzzle if you are using the stock head. Without it, you are just amplifying a poor signal.

 

It's an expensive and maybe an unnecessary upgrade for most who may not be into clean sound like I am, but if you are, don't even bother working with any of the stock components.

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