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Replace the battery in your 2007-2015 Silverado or Sierra 1500


Zane

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By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin
Copyright 2015 - GM-Trucks.com


The colder weather of winter can be punishing on your pickup’s battery. If your truck doesn't start with the same enthusiasm this spring as it did last fall, your battery is to blame. After two months of temperatures regularly below zero-degrees Fahrenheit, the stock battery in our Sierra was in rough shape. Even leaving a cell-phone charger plugged in overnight was too much for our old battery to handle.

Luckily, changing your battery is one of the easiest pieces of maintenance to perform on your Silverado or Sierra.

You can buy a new battery at any auto parts store and most large box stores. Consult with a compatibility chart or sales associate to ensure you purchase a compatible battery. Most newer Silverado and Sierra take a "Group 78" style battery.

Aside from the correct type, it’s important to note the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) of your stock battery and buy a new battery that is at least equivalent. If you live in a cold region or have hooked up accessories to your battery, getting a higher CCA-rated battery is a great idea. Never buy a battery that is smaller or has a CCA rating that is lower than stock.

Tools needed
13mm socket (battery hold down)
10mm socket (battery cables)
½-in socket (body bracing)
6-in socket extension
Safety Glasses
Mechanic’s Gloves

Applicable Vehicles
2007-2015+ Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500

Time required
10-15 minutes

Estimated Cost
$150-175 depending on battery, not including refundable core charge

Skills Required
Beginner Technical Ability
Able to lift 50lbs over shoulder height

Warnings and Precautions
Never allow a tool to connect the two battery terminals together

Step One - Prepare
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The first step in any project is to prepare your work space. Gather the required tools and safety equipment. Park your vehicle in a place where you have adequate light and you won't have to move it for the duration of the project. Some vehicles have security codes or radio settings that need to be noted before disconnecting vehicle power.

Step Two - Unscrew the engine bay bracing
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The battery in the older 2007-2013 body styles and newer 2014+ body styles are surrounded by bracing. While the designs are different, all model years require a 1/2-inch socket to remove the bolts. Remove the bracing and set aside in a safe place.

Step Three - Remove the battery hold down
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The battery is held in place by a single 13mm bolt and block. Simply unscrew the hold-down using a socket and the 6-inch extension, Set aside in a safe place.

Step Four - Disconnect the old battery
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Now, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket. Be careful to remove the negative terminal first and never allow the positive and negative wires or terminals to touch.

Step Five - Switch the old and new battery
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The battery weights around 40lbs, so make sure you are comfortable lifting this much weight to around shoulder height.

Step Six - Reassemble in reverse order
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Simply reattach your battery, battery hold down, and engine bay bracing in the reverse order.

Step Seven - Restore settings
Replacing the battery will most likely reset your pickup’s clock, radio favorites and memory seat settings that you may have customized. Take a moment before you hit the road again to restore these settings in a safe place while parked.

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Did my o7 Suburban 2 winters ago. Best peace of mind ever.

Maybe a 15 minute job, including cleaning and putting the tools away.

Did my expensive VW last year. $149 battery at walmart. H7? I believe.

Over 500 at the dealer. While I don't mind sliding my dealership a little extra money for service.

$2106/hour is a little much for a battery install.

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Good write-up. You mention to remove negative cable first, which is correct, but I think it may need a little more information as to why you remove negative first. Can't tell you how many times I have heard people say to remove positive first, because it is the cable with the power on it, and you want to disconnect power first.

 

When you are removing a battery, and both cables are connected, removing either wire will remove power from the vehicle. The thing to be aware of though is that with the ground cable connected, and you put your wrench on the positive cable to remove it, the wrench may slip or move suddenly and touch the fender or any metal brace in the area, which will short tjhe battery to ground, usually instantly welding the wrench to both the nut on the battery cable and the metal it hit. The wrench will get red hot, and stands a good chance of causing a fire at best, or explosion of battery at worst. If you remove the negative cable first and the wrench slips, it will touch ground, which is what it is connected to on that terminal already. No damage other than maybe chipping the paint.

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Thank you. Should we also make all things like radio and HVAC are turned off before hand?

 

No need, engine is not running, key is either turned off, or removed. As long as you shut the truck off yourself, and got out of the truck with the keys in your pocket, you are good the change the battery. The only reason I mention you shutting the vehicle off and getting out is to ensure the radio is shut off and not running on the 10 minute retained power feature.

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Do GMT900s have Theftloc like earlier GMs did? I cannot find any information in the manual about that. I think the radio is VIN programmed but am not sure.

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My Sierra 3500 has 2 batteries. I have been wondering if they are connected in parallel (I presume they are) and if so, will I be able to change one battery at a time and not lose any settings.

 

thanks, jon

It depends. They may be in parrallel if you have a diesel, not so if you have a gasser with the aux. battery like I do.

 

DEWFPO

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attachicon.gifSierra_NewBattery_HowTo05.jpg

By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin

Copyright 2015 - GM-Trucks.com

........

Most newer Silverado and Sierra take a "Group 78" style battery.

 

............

I thought it was a group 48 battery in the '07 - up?

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My Sierra 3500 has 2 batteries. I have been wondering if they are connected in parallel (I presume they are) and if so, will I be able to change one battery at a time and not lose any settings.

 

thanks, jon

DEFINITELY in parallel - other wise they'd be sending 24v to your ECM and everything else. Electronics get VERY unhappy when you double their voltage, and they release smoke and fire in protest. :D

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According to Optima battery website my 2013 GMC 6 has type 34R battery. When I have to replace it I was thinking since I could put 2 batteries in it, I was wondering who sells a set of extra cables to hook them up. I'm sure the GMC dealer does, but I don't want to pay a fortune for them!

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Prices for long runs of heavy gauge wire are fairly steep these days. I'm sure the dealer would be the most expensive option, but never hurts to compare. It's also the easiest option as far as installation goes - it will have all the right lengths and correct connector terminals on the ends. All you have to do is bring it home and install it ... but you'll pay.

 

4awg is probably plenty big enough for a 4'-5' run - places online have welding wire for around a buck a foot, plus a little more for shipping. If you bought it that way, you'd have to install your own connectors - that's the cheapest way by far. Auto parts store might not have a length that long in battery cables, but might not have the connectors on it you need even if they did stock it.

 

Lots of options there - all depends on what you can do yourself.

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