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Replace the battery in your 2007-2015 Silverado or Sierra 1500


Zane

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Prices for long runs of heavy gauge wire are fairly steep these days. I'm sure the dealer would be the most expensive option, but never hurts to compare. It's also the easiest option as far as installation goes - it will have all the right lengths and correct connector terminals on the ends. All you have to do is bring it home and install it ... but you'll pay.

 

4awg is probably plenty big enough for a 4'-5' run - places online have welding wire for around a buck a foot, plus a little more for shipping. If you bought it that way, you'd have to install your own connectors - that's the cheapest way by far. Auto parts store might not have a length that long in battery cables, but might not have the connectors on it you need even if they did stock it.

 

Lots of options there - all depends on what you can do yourself.

 

If using welding cable you will also need to put more tie downs on the cable. Welding cable is usually made up of hundreds of strands of fine copper wire, and is very flexible. You will want single (0) or double aut (00) size. This cable is fairly heavy as well, 1 foot can weigh nearly 3/4 pound.

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According to Optima battery website my 2013 GMC 6 has type 34R battery. When I have to replace it I was thinking since I could put 2 batteries in it, I was wondering who sells a set of extra cables to hook them up. I'm sure the GMC dealer does, but I don't want to pay a fortune for them!

a source for battery cables buy a set of BOOSTER cables you get 2 runs pre red/black and for a good price usually / just replace ends to connect to batteries

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If using welding cable you will also need to put more tie downs on the cable. Welding cable is usually made up of hundreds of strands of fine copper wire, and is very flexible. You will want single (0) or double aut (00) size. This cable is fairly heavy as well, 1 foot can weigh nearly 3/4 pound.

WOW that's gigantic wire! Never used wire that big unless someone had a 2k watt + stereo, but then again vehicles didn't have the computers they have when I installed those ....

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OK guys, thanks for the info. I can solder pretty good, so putting new clamps on shouldn't be a big problem. I will just have to round up some

wire, cable ties etc. A good project for fall before winter sets in.

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WOW that's gigantic wire! Never used wire that big unless someone had a 2k watt + stereo, but then again vehicles didn't have the computers they have when I installed those ....

 

The only reason I know about using welding cable was from that Mustang I had. Back then high CCA batteries were not readily available at reasonable prices, so I ran two 27 series in the back of the car, and used the 00 welding cable from + posts on batteries to starter relay(solenoid), and from solenoid to starter. The high torque starters they have today were not around then either. I used the chassis for a ground cable, with ground straps between chassis and any metal part that was isolated from chassis(like steering column for example). You really have to watch that no part uses a bearing in the path to ground. Take the ground strap off of an early Horizon and within 2 months it will need front wheel bearings.

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  • 3 months later...

I currently have a 2014 Silverado LT...I just hit two years last week and the battery died...purchased a new battery...outside temp now reads 32 degrees, when it's actually 94 degrees out...does anyone know how to reset the outside temp reading on the display? Any help is greatly appreciate it.

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The temperature reading update requires a continuous driving for about 5 minutes. Has the truck been driven at least that long afterward?

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The illegal alien 'tards at Pep Boys need to read this thread after it's been translated into Spanish.

A few years ago I was away from home and needed a battery NOW. I let them install it and they threw out the battery hold down on my '02 Silverado.

 

Idiots.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I swapped out the battery recently on my month old 15 Silverado.... I just don't bother with Delco anymore and replaced it with a Odyssey. The group 94 has the goofy distribution center snapped on top of the battery which you need to move out of the way. To get the Delco out I had to remove not only the fender to firewall brace but the vertical brace to the battery tray as well. I also flipped the coolant jug out of the way as I still couldn't twist the old battery out easily anyhow with it in place. Still only took about 15 minutes to do the swap and have everything hooked back up again. On the new trucks you don't even lose date and time as it auto updates itself. The compass wanted a cal but all that requires is just going for a drive and not doing circles like the older trucks. Still a PITA over swapping the battery in my 05 but oh well lol.

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Just a update to this posting specifically related to the replacement of the battery in a 2015 Silverado. I just replaced mine for the first time since getting the truck and found that the steps related are a little different. First of all there is a support bracket that is attached to the stabilization bar and the battery tray that needs to be removed. Secondly there isn't mentioned on how to remove the fuse box tray that sits on top of the battery which requires you to unclip it from the battery housing itself to remove. Finally I found that to remove my battery I needed to loosen the rear nut of the coolant overflow tank to make room so that the battery could be removed and new one installed. Reverse your process to include my steps above and you now have just replaced the battery.

 

Hope this additional info assists others.

 

Thank you.

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  • 1 month later...

Just a update to this posting specifically related to the replacement of the battery in a 2015 Silverado. I just replaced mine for the first time since getting the truck and found that the steps related are a little different. First of all there is a support bracket that is attached to the stabilization bar and the battery tray that needs to be removed. Secondly there isn't mentioned on how to remove the fuse box tray that sits on top of the battery which requires you to unclip it from the battery housing itself to remove. Finally I found that to remove my battery I needed to loosen the rear nut of the coolant overflow tank to make room so that the battery could be removed and new one installed. Reverse your process to include my steps above and you now have just replaced the battery.

 

Hope this additional info assists others.

 

Thank you.

 

Just replaced mine with an optima 34R it is shorter and taller than OEM but the hold down fit it well. The positive bus block that was on top of the old one just barely fit, any taller and you would have to get a longer positive lead. I also had to remove the screw for the coolant overflow in the battery tray so I could get the OEM battery out. Thanks for the tip Jesse, I came in and found your post before I started taking everything apart. Do note that the horizontal stabilization bar sits over the mount on the front and under the mount on the firewall side when you are putting it back together.

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