2014 silverado 1500 dies while driving

[nahulu77]

UPDATE: The dealers ran it on the computer, negative!! Nothing appearing on the computer.So the tech tried to blame it on the drop in air filter, but nope the maf sensor is clean, so they resort to the RX OIL CATCH CAN......... telling me that the CC is the blame for the low idle, saying "the pcv system controls the air flow of the idle"..and I tell them it's there as a inline filter to catch the oil vapors. So long story short, they said to replace it back to stock and see if anything happens, if it the idle is still low then bring it back. I check to see if the hoses on the CC were kink or collapse, nope. TO TELL YOU TRUTH, WHEN I WAS TALKING TO THE SERVICE CLERK, IT SOUNDED LIKE HE DIDN'T KNOW WHAT A CC WAS..

 

 

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Edited April 16, 2015 by nahulu77

[2007silveradonbs]

sounds to me like a vacuum leak.

[nahulu77]

So my wife brought the truck home yesterday, I call my friend with the same exact truck as mines to check the idle difference, and guess what?! My idle is the same as his, normal, so I don't know what the dealers were talking about having a low idle. I guess for now everything is normal with no idea on how the truck just randomly died.

[HondaHawkGT]

Bad fuel? These trucks have a pretty low idle as is. A little water goes a long way.

[A.J. Curtis]

So my wife brought the truck home yesterday, I call my friend with the same exact truck as mines to check the idle difference, and guess what?! My idle is the same as his, normal, so I don't know what the dealers were talking about having a low idle. I guess for now everything is normal with no idea on how the truck just randomly died.

did you have find a diffenitive answer or solution for why the truck was dying?

[wthomas86]

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and this just happened to me for the first time about 15 min ago. I came directly to this forum and found your post. I am going to try to video tape it if it happens again and take it into the dealer.

 

I have aftermarket hid's on it. Thinking I should take them off before I go to the dealer just in case.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nahulu77]

did you have find a diffenitive answer or solution for why the truck was dying?

None

[A.J. Curtis]

My coworker had this same problem. He would be driving then all of the sudden the truck would just turn off. 1st trip to the dealer they kept it 3 days and said there was nothing wrong. He took it home two days later it died going on the on ramp to the freeway. 2nd trip to the dealer they kept it for a week and claimed it was a bad battery cable. They replaced the negative battery cable. One week later the truck dies again. 3rd trip to the dealer they kept it for a week and just replaced the positive battery cable. He refuses to take the truck back until they have it in writing that the issue is resolved. The truck is 2 months old with less than 3,000 miles on it.

[moyneur]

I purchased a Certified Pre-Owned 2014 Siverado 4x4 last June (2019) with 19000 mile on it. I have had the vehicle completely shut off, like some one pulled the plug on it, three times, twice in one day and one more time two days later. It's at the dealership now, the system did show some issues with it shorting out but unable to find out whats wrong. They did check ground "PIT5405" and was good. They are trying to duplicate the issue so the can fix it, not realy sure what that will tell them. I'm just afraid that I purchease some ones problems and now I'm screwed.

[Deus13]

I had this issue in my 2016 Sierra. The dealership found there was a voltage issue with the Battery fuse box. They replaced it 2 days ago and so far no issues

[SR01]

The problem is either 1) a bad steering sensor and the systems software logic error or 2) a software systems logic error initiated by factory specified excessive amperage battery current draw, and an intentional logic flaw in the main computer. What are the facts and symptoms for each:

1) Bad steering sensor and logic error: The main steering wheel has a MEMs gyro sensor similar in design and construction to the airbag gyro sensors. The gyro sensors malfunctioned when temperature and humidity conditions breached a non hermetic seal in the sensor package causing a change in its output characteristics beyond calibration. Water vapor on the fingers of the MEMs to chip surface caused a stiction to movement. The change was temporary as it went back to normal over time as the humidity dropped and the transfer curve returned to normal following a consistent hysteresis curve. Small steering moves are falsely sensed as excessive moves demanding excessive current draw. If the conditions is periodic, and prevalent during season changes this could support the bad sensor. Excessive current draw is sensed by the main computer and under current logic the main computer shuts down critical systems during the drive. These systems include, power steering, power brakes, horn, diming of lights and ultimately a total power shutdown. After shutdown, OnStar is disabled.

The original logic is to prevent driving a car when there is an unexplained excessive power draw as a safety feture.

The problem is this is applied to a moving vehicle, in operation such as turn or a lane change. In addition, when a crash occurs, the horn, lights and OnStar is disabled. The problem starts early with soft failures and progresses to worse over time. Soft failures such as stabilization errors or ABS errors during changing lanes. Errors build and the body control module gets overwhelmed and eventually shuts down. You will get a raise and lower the driver's side window message which resets some of the errors.

2) Good steering sensor gyro, but a software systems logic error caused by excessive amperage battery current draw, and an intentional logic that is flawed. The problem (current draw) can be caused by a combination certain conditions:

Some people report the problem during a turn at city speeds after driving a highway speeds. If one is

using air conditioning, headlights are always on, ideling speed RPMs are near 500 rpms and one slows down during a turn at city speeds (even slower in the winter time with ice and snow) conditions become ripe for failure. The low idle rpm is insufficient to meet the amperage demand and the false systems logic shuts down power steering, and power breaks during the turn. Crazy logic used is one still has breaks, and steering, just not power assist. However, who can react to a turn when ABS kicks, raising speed, pumping brakes while excessive force is required simultaneously for steering and brakes to prevent crossing into the next lane which can have a vehicle in it or even during a 55 mph lane change when the gas pedal is temporarily raised?

Bottom line is the problem is with the manufacturer, either a failing component and/or an intentional basic logic flaw. Systems logic to shut down should be disabled when actively moving and/or air conditioning, radio etc. should shut down keeping some level of reduced power steering, and power brakes reduced, not complete shut off. Power control module should be hardwired power to OnStar, lights, and horn so that these safety features are intact after an accident

 

You can continue to go nuts trying to diagnose this, or worse pay the dealer for countless grounding evaluations, or several $ 100+ diagnostics evaluations or we can be smart. NHITSA is supposed to take care of safety issues. Some may eventually blame the body control module computer, replace it and charge $ 1,000.00 This is a pretty expensive error message reset, only to have the problem appear again after warranty. Problem is they ignore the countless reports on the internet, and dealer service records. They do not dig in until there is a TBD significant number of formal complaints to the NITSA website. Even though thjis was a NITSA safety recall 17276-2PSR in 2017, they have taken the position to not investigate as of today-rather waiting for more formal complaints or a few deaths -which tends to get their attention. By the way the recall was a software upgrade essentially ignoring the excessive draw for a period of time and maybe even raised the value, both of which are miscalculated as the problem still exists after the recall and re-program. There is a form to fill out. So the best pathforward is to fill out the NITSA complaint forms by everyone who has this problem. If and when they finally assess the true root cause, repairs will be free under recall and those hat have paid to fix the problem (Lucky if it gets fixed) will be reimbursed as was the case in the ABS failures.

NHTSA | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration

https://www.nhtsa.gov

 

[300 Blackout]

On 1/3/2021 at 5:37 PM, SR01 said:

The problem is either 1) a bad steering sensor and the systems software logic error or 2) a software systems logic error initiated by factory specified excessive amperage battery current draw, and an intentional logic flaw in the main computer. What are the facts and symptoms for each:

1) Bad steering sensor and logic error: The main steering wheel has a MEMs gyro sensor similar in design and construction to the airbag gyro sensors. The gyro sensors malfunctioned when temperature and humidity conditions breached a non hermetic seal in the sensor package causing a change in its output characteristics beyond calibration. Water vapor on the fingers of the MEMs to chip surface caused a stiction to movement. The change was temporary as it went back to normal over time as the humidity dropped and the transfer curve returned to normal following a consistent hysteresis curve. Small steering moves are falsely sensed as excessive moves demanding excessive current draw. If the conditions is periodic, and prevalent during season changes this could support the bad sensor. Excessive current draw is sensed by the main computer and under current logic the main computer shuts down critical systems during the drive. These systems include, power steering, power brakes, horn, diming of lights and ultimately a total power shutdown. After shutdown, OnStar is disabled.

The original logic is to prevent driving a car when there is an unexplained excessive power draw as a safety feture.

The problem is this is applied to a moving vehicle, in operation such as turn or a lane change. In addition, when a crash occurs, the horn, lights and OnStar is disabled. The problem starts early with soft failures and progresses to worse over time. Soft failures such as stabilization errors or ABS errors during changing lanes. Errors build and the body control module gets overwhelmed and eventually shuts down. You will get a raise and lower the driver's side window message which resets some of the errors.

2) Good steering sensor gyro, but a software systems logic error caused by excessive amperage battery current draw, and an intentional logic that is flawed. The problem (current draw) can be caused by a combination certain conditions:

Some people report the problem during a turn at city speeds after driving a highway speeds. If one is

using air conditioning, headlights are always on, ideling speed RPMs are near 500 rpms and one slows down during a turn at city speeds (even slower in the winter time with ice and snow) conditions become ripe for failure. The low idle rpm is insufficient to meet the amperage demand and the false systems logic shuts down power steering, and power breaks during the turn. Crazy logic used is one still has breaks, and steering, just not power assist. However, who can react to a turn when ABS kicks, raising speed, pumping brakes while excessive force is required simultaneously for steering and brakes to prevent crossing into the next lane which can have a vehicle in it or even during a 55 mph lane change when the gas pedal is temporarily raised?

Bottom line is the problem is with the manufacturer, either a failing component and/or an intentional basic logic flaw. Systems logic to shut down should be disabled when actively moving and/or air conditioning, radio etc. should shut down keeping some level of reduced power steering, and power brakes reduced, not complete shut off. Power control module should be hardwired power to OnStar, lights, and horn so that these safety features are intact after an accident

 

You can continue to go nuts trying to diagnose this, or worse pay the dealer for countless grounding evaluations, or several $ 100+ diagnostics evaluations or we can be smart. NHITSA is supposed to take care of safety issues. Some may eventually blame the body control module computer, replace it and charge $ 1,000.00 This is a pretty expensive error message reset, only to have the problem appear again after warranty. Problem is they ignore the countless reports on the internet, and dealer service records. They do not dig in until there is a TBD significant number of formal complaints to the NITSA website. Even though thjis was a NITSA safety recall 17276-2PSR in 2017, they have taken the position to not investigate as of today-rather waiting for more formal complaints or a few deaths -which tends to get their attention. By the way the recall was a software upgrade essentially ignoring the excessive draw for a period of time and maybe even raised the value, both of which are miscalculated as the problem still exists after the recall and re-program. There is a form to fill out. So the best pathforward is to fill out the NITSA complaint forms by everyone who has this problem. If and when they finally assess the true root cause, repairs will be free under recall and those hat have paid to fix the problem (Lucky if it gets fixed) will be reimbursed as was the case in the ABS failures.

NHTSA | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration

https://www.nhtsa.gov

 

Without question, this is exactly what is occurring on my 2014 Sierra L83. I’ve been chasing it for about 2 years.
 

It first presented as flickering/dimming of the interior and exterior lights when rolling up two windows simultaneously. It occurred intermittently and I originally believed it may be due to an excessive load from some aftermarket accessories (supercharger coolant pump, HIDs, wideband sensor, bigger tires).
 

AGM Battery less than 2 years old in a cold climate so I figured it was the alternator but the problem resolved itself so I chalked it up to excessive idling in the winter with too much demand in the system.

 

Six months later, the problem reappeared. Slow speed turns while parking caused the truck to die. It didn’t die every time. Sometimes the lights would flicker, advisory messages appeared in the driver info screen telling me StabiliTrack was disabled, and steering lost power. I never lost braking power and I speculate that is because I deleted the mechanical vacuum pump years ago and run off of manifold vacuum supplemented by a vacuum reserve canister. 
 

I purchased a 200amp alternator but didn’t install it as the problem appeared to have resolved itself before I got around to putting it in. 

 

Then the problem re-appeared many months later and was obviously correlated with weather (hot and humid, raining or long idle during winter warm up) and vehicle speed (always at low speed while parking or low speed maneuvering). Again, by rolling two windows up at once,   

I could induce the flickering, StabiliTrack disabled, “roll the drivers side window down then up.”
 

Parked the truck a few days ago and experienced the power steering loss. It was in the sun for a few hours and when I went to move it, it was dead. Dead, dead. Not a single light. Nothing. I charged it, drove home without issue and that brings me to today. 
 

I drove for about 15 minutes in hot humid weather. I pulled into a parking spot and needed to check my drivers side wheel well for an unrelated issue. I turned the wheel to the right while parked and running at idle. I knew it would set off all the bells and whistles, which it did. Took care of what I needed to and started turning the wheel to the left. After about a quarter turn, the truck instantly died. Not like the previous times. No stutter, flicker or dimming. This time it was instant blackout dead.
 

Tried to restart the truck...nada. No lights, no power. Popped the hood, looked around for anything obvious didn’t find anything (as expected). Opened and closed the drivers door. Put the key in the ignition and had full power, started right up. No struggle like you see with a dead or failing battery. Nope, it started like nothing happened and had the driver’s window message. 
 

Although frustrating, it was really useful info to have. It’s not a dying alt or battery. Definitely something different which led me here and to this post.
 

I get the feeling SR01 might just be a tech who sounded the alarm about this issue and it fell upon deaf ears. Regardless, thank you for creating an account to share this information with us. It’s your first and only post and I’m grateful for it. Thanks!

[300 Blackout]

Replaced my negative battery cable four months ago and it hasn’t happened since. I even re-tapped the treads on the frame to assure it’s getting good contact. Fingers crossed.