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Just got an 04 2500 HD w/ Duramax. 1st Diesel.


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As my jobs have grown & trailer size has increased, my 02 2500HD 6.0 was getting overworked. I crossed the scales towing over 14k lbs several times recently with my 16 ft bumper pull dump trailer. The other 15 loads were a min of 11k lbs. Rated to pull 9800 lbs. Manual calculations indicated an avg of 6.9 mpg. Daily non towing driving avg is about 9.0. Merging into traffic had to be well planned.

 

I found an 04 crew cab LT 4 x 4 leather that was used to haul a 5th wheel camper occasionally, but mostly used to carry young kids around. Seats are dirty & cracking, but should clean up ok. Exterior has really good paint with out many dings.

 

195k miles. He added an Edge Tuner, Bully Dog CAI, MBRP dual exh w cat delete, and air bags to the rear suspension. I should be set in my power & ride height needs. My mechanic that is very familiar w Duramax's said this one felt pretty strong. The injectors were replaced at 120k.

 

18.3 mpg in my 1st 150 miles or so. Only 40 miles of small trailer towing. That's double my 9.1 in the 02. I am pretty happy with it so far. I cant wait to haul my tractor and see how it handles it with air bags and diesel power.

 

I am not sure if this is a "good" year for the diesel. The truck seemed to taken care of.

 

Any comments or tips are welcome.

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2004 Duramax had a mid-year change from LB7 (1st generation) to LLY (2nd generation). Check the 8th digit of your VIN. "1" = LB7. "2" = LLY. The model year for LLY in 2004 is often called "2004.5".

 

Major problem areas?

LB7 - injectors

LLY - injector connectors, especially #2 and #7 (Google "ice pick LLY"), and injector wire chafing where it goes over bracket at right-front of engine, aluminum alternator bracket I think). Also overheating for many and more likely on long grades in hot weather, especially in Texas and the west; probably not a problem where.you are but if you decide to make a trip out west towing heavy...there are auxiliary radiator kits.

 

Personally I would remove the tuner because (1) they sometimes go bad and cause very strange symptoms, (2) extra power is more likely to limp (and damage) the Allison, and (3) these things have incredible power when stock. But then, reliability may be far more important to me than you or others.

 

The CAI is a good idea, but keep stock, or at least non-oiled, air filters. Stock is completely adequate. Oil will coat the MAF sensor and cause problems.

 

LB7 probably gets slightly better MPG than an LLY.

 

If it hasn't been remedied, watch for a pin hole leak in the transfer case caused by "pump rub". Google it. There are kits by 3rd parties which put a wide surface on the pump plate against the magnesium housing to avoid causing the pin hole. GM has a probably-inadequate upgrade but there are far better solutions.

 

Once the big potential problems are mitigated, these are great trucks! I've had mine almost 11 years since new and intend to keep it at least another 11!!

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jake111 +1

 

they are amazing trucks, don't mod, do all maintenance.

 

Last week I pull fully loaded heavy long dual axels travel trailer from Toronto to Winnipeg - Manitoba (delivered) then pick up Engine seized Benz-ML350 on transport trailer from Winnipeg to Toronto, so total tip was around 5000 km

 

I had no problem going anywhere.

 

GMC Duramax all the way!

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KMGZ400 thank you for the input

 

which Tuner do you use?

 

sorry if I hijack this thread.

It's different to tune LML's if that's what your asking, I have Motorops tunes which is Duramax tuners Canadian company. Wouldn't go with any other tunes

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If you don't want to go through injectors, I'd say get a lift pump with a good filter and separator.

Good suggestions!! I don't have a lift pump, but it's a really good idea and on my wish-list.

 

I think a good auxiliary fuel filter, meaning a BIG filter with water separation is a MUST to avoid serious problems on a trip. I'm currently using a Donaldson P553207 filter (w/water bowl on the bottom) on a Nicktane auxiliary filter head, followed by a Racor filter under the hood.

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I finally got to pull my John Deere with Clifford. It sure pulled easier than with the 6.0 gasser. About 9000 lbs including trailer. The 04 did not seem to squat as bad on the rear suspension as the 02. When I get the dump trailer to 14,000 lbs, that will be a better test for it.

 

I guess I need to search for info on lift pumps and fuel separators.

 

Thanks.

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Also passenger side head gaskets are prone to failure on LLY's. Also whether it's an LB7 or LLY get the nicktane fuel filter adapter kit and put on a CAT filter to take your filtration down to 2 microns from 10. That's the main reason injectors fail. You also can invest in a FASS kit to filter better and allow better fuel pressure across the board. EGR systems can be a nuisance on the LLY. BTW very nice truck! Congrats

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Clifford has the LB7 engine.

 

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.

 

The owner gave me a new fuel pressure regulator that he did not have time to install yet. It smokes when at idle. He said it would take care of that.

I cleaned & lightly re-oiled the air filter and cleaned the MAF.

 

I added a Cam-Locker tool box and a B&W flip hitch. You pull a pin & spin it over from a 2" ball to the 2 5/16" ball. It cost too much but it is worth it since it is so easy. 1 pin to rotate ball or 2 pins to adjust hitch height. I may swap trailers several times a day and this helps.

I need a camera system to speed up trailer swapping. Anybody added one?

 

Thanks again.

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For my '04 3500 flatbed, I replaced the factory radio with an Alpine AVH-4000NEX (current model IS AVH-4100NEX) for it's iPhone Carplay support and rearview camera support. It has a nice 7" display.

 

I paired it with the Pioneer ND-BC6 camera and am very pleased with the image quality and field of view [up and down and side to side]. I mounted the camera centered, just under the deck, and now I can easily back up to within 6 inches to cars or walls, no problem with lining up the hitch to a trailer. And it has a pretty good image at night as well.

 

And if you go this route, I also reccomend the PAC RadioPro3 radio interface [you may want to research which specific version you want depending on if you have OnStar, steering wheel controls, whatever]. This worked great for:

-providing the signal to the radio to turn on the rear view camera

-providing enough power for the radio [10 amps]

-wires for all the speakers [it supported all my installed speakers, but I don't have the Bose set]

-supports warning chimes [not through the radio, it has it's own not that great sounding 'chime']

-supports retained accessory power [radio keeps going until you open a door or 10 minutes or so after you turn the key off]

 

With this adapter, you don't need to hack any wires in the truck, it just plugs straight into the harness at the existing plug that the radio used. You only need to wire the adapter to the radio.

 

The only thing I don't like about it is, when I put the truck into reverse, the camera turns on [with the image on the radio], then after about 2 seconds, the image blanks, then comes on again [like something resets]. It only happens once per time in reverse...

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