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Time for my first diesel.


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I decided to do some exploring at the behest of my wife....she was tired of the ride quality when towing our 10K plus travel trailer with our 2014 1500 NHT. Interesting shopping experience. Skipping to the end: Suttle GMC claimed a specific truck we spotted on cars.com was not available. Interesting in that it was still showing available on GM's site as well as the dealer. Figured I would call Winegardner this AM to trust but verify. Turned out the not available truck was absolutely available. I asked if Suttle had made contact with them...he checked the system and no...nothing from Suttle. Well it's settled...barring any shenanigans I'm picking up a white 2015 2500 CC SLT Z71 on Saturday. 2.29% for 75 months isn't a bad gig. Just about time too...rear end on my 2014 CC NHT was making a high pitched whine after I dusted a ricer up to the speed limit.

 

I promised I wouldn't mod....but....

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Congrats! Diligence paid off! And White is always a plus. Looks like you timing couldn't have been better. That is so cool when things work out like that.

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Congrats!! Tune and delete it, I was hesitant at first to tune and delete my LML but I would of done it the day I bought it looking back!

sorry ....delete what exactly?

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Technically illegal to remove even for off road use. Every Diesel engine above 35 hp for ag tractors, construction equip, etc require Tier IV emissions junk too.

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I'll hold off before I go that deep. The biggest mod I'm considering is a larger tank...but i'll hold off on that decision until after a couple of tows. Wanting the HIDs, LED (rigid) fogs and Denali grille so far. Thought I would like the 20s...but not too many tire options after they are worn out.

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I wouldn't mess with the emissions on a truck under warranty truck.

 

The factory jack is a piece of junk and there's a 99.99% chance that it cannot extend far enough to lift the front suspension off the ground using the frame jack point. I'd get a good pair of 3-5 ton bottle jacks (Norco $$ and US Jack $$$$ come to mind) and a decent tire iron or breaker bar. if you have room and can deal with the weight a good floor jack is hard to beat. I'd recommend the pair of jacks because the 7 inches of sidewalls on the tires and 7 inches of lift range of most bottle jacks doesn't leave much room to work with. When you need a jack, it's a time when you really don't want to be screwing around with junk.

 

If you're towing heavy, even with weight distribution, a set a of helper springs, airbags, and/or a sway bar will help a lot.

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For sure. Unless you are mr. money pockets, once you delete the emissions stuff, you are effectively on your own... for everything. EPA and some state agencies have even been strong arming some dealer shops that if a truck comes in with all this deleted, the dealer is required to restore the vehicle to compliance at the customer expense. So you would be wise never going to a dealer for so much as a light bulb. And if dealer reported it to the nanny state.... the fines are a real wallet buster. If it was me, I would just find a tune that would shut down the EGR if I did anything. The downstream stuff doesn't bother me, it is the EGR making the engine eat its own feces. One thing on the gasser, a totally bad deal with a diesel. Then you would have no removal of components, fewer regens on the DPF (read.. it will last longer), less cooling system stress, and you could restore quickly if going into dealer. Oil would stay substantially cleaner longer. The EGR is the worse thing ever to happen to a diesel.

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Tune and delete is a line that you cross and never come back to when it comes to warranty work. With that said, I had the trans valve body apart on my bench at 1500 miles and a Predator then EFI tune shortly thereafter. On the new trucks, it's not that easy of a decision to make. I'm in the process myself because my new truck is doggy compared to the LBZ.

 

As far as tuning an LML, if you even sneeze at the ECM, GM will know.....

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I wouldn't mess with the emissions on a truck under warranty truck.

 

The factory jack is a piece of junk and there's a 99.99% chance that it cannot extend far enough to lift the front suspension off the ground using the frame jack point. I'd get a good pair of 3-5 ton bottle jacks (Norco $$ and US Jack $$$$ come to mind) and a decent tire iron or breaker bar. if you have room and can deal with the weight a good floor jack is hard to beat. I'd recommend the pair of jacks because the 7 inches of sidewalls on the tires and 7 inches of lift range of most bottle jacks doesn't leave much room to work with. When you need a jack, it's a time when you really don't want to be screwing around with junk.

 

If you're towing heavy, even with weight distribution, a set a of helper springs, airbags, and/or a sway bar will help a lot.

I've got a good size bottle jack in the rv with leveling blocks to assist. running an equalizer 14k and I'm hoping I'm good on the suspension upgrades until it's time for a new 5th. When it's time though I want auto leveling, a sway bar along with better tires.

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  • 1 month later...

Many little problems and now a blown transmission and Im ready to move on from my current 2007 gmt-900 1500. Have been looking at 2500 as I do some towing and the 3.73 ratio I have on my 1500 seems harder and harder to find. I have not owned a diesel and do not know anything about them. I have looked at several 2500HD some with diesel engine some with gas engine.

Pros/Cons of the engines all else being equal. Why/Why not opinions would be greatly appreciated.

 

thanks


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Many little problems and now a blown transmission and Im ready to move on from my current 2007 gmt-900 1500. Have been looking at 2500 as I do some towing and the 3.73 ratio I have on my 1500 seems harder and harder to find. I have not owned a diesel and do not know anything about them. I have looked at several 2500HD some with diesel engine some with gas engine.

 

Pros/Cons of the engines all else being equal. Why/Why not opinions would be greatly appreciated.

 

thanks

 

 

My opinion is that when it comes down to it, a diesel isn't worth it unless you actually need to step up to a diesel. If all you need is a gas 3/4 then just get a gasser. Diesel just cost a lot more to maintain both more regular routine maintenance and upkeep.

 

Have to also remember that you don't look at just the weight, but also take in consideration of how often you tow. If a 3/4 ton gasser would be good enough but you tow at least once a week or every 2 weeks then go ahead and get the diesel. But, if all you need is the gasser and you only tow once a month or less than stick with a gasser.

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