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My Intake Mod


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Spurshot why don't you just buy my SC and be done with it, if your looking for power, no matter what you bolt on or tune won't get you any measurable result verses forced induction.

It only took me 6 hours to remove it and return to stock last weekend. And that was because I was following the install manual backwards.

 

 

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Edited by bass mechanic
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The install manual is the same for both engines and all the parts are the same, the only difference is the tune

 

 

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Thanks Kevin. But this is my hunting truck. I put a lot of miles on them. I'm going to keep it mild on the truck. I was thinking about a Camaro. But I'm thinking about a 2010-11 as a commuter. I know you'd treat me right on the blower and money's not the issue, but I don't think it's in the cards.

Edited by spurshot
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I drove it to work today. 25 miles one way. 5 miles of streets, 20 miles of LA freeway. I drove it nice but upwards of 70 mph at times. It showed 18.7 on the 25 mile average screen on the DIC when arriving at work, and still climbing. I think mileage was measurably unaffected.

 

What's becoming apparent is the throttle position/travel needed for acceleration and cruise is much less than before. That makes it nicer to drive, since the stock 5.3 seems to require an unusually large pedal movement for normal driving, compared to other cars/trucks I've driven. But it also makes it less precise for driving for economy.

Edited by spurshot
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Spurshot, just out of curiosity (and a little off topic, sorry) how many miles on the truck? Only asking because of the photo of the oil build up on the valves. I have yet to put on a catch can and after seeing yours, I'm thinking its not a bad idea.

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I picked up good gains with a ported intake on my C7, I would think good gains would be available on the truck as well.

 

Porting the throttle body will not do anything. I have a ported TB on my C7 and had one on a few other vehicles and it never did a thing, it's just cheap so I did it anyways. Not going to do it this time.

 

I also kill the cam retard under 3000 RPMs that is programmed in the stock tune and it feels more torquey and I have yet to lose any mileage. In fact, I kill AFM/DoD and low end cam retard and still get 20 mpg on the highway.

 

Higgs, my understanding was the VVT advances the cam at lower RPM for higher BMEP, by closing the intake valve earlier, and retards the cam for higher RPM produce more peak power.

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Higgs, my understanding was the VVT advances the cam at lower RPM for higher BMEP, by closing the intake valve earlier, and retards the cam for higher RPM produce more peak power.

 

This is true at full throttle but there are separate maps/tables for part throttle. It's programmed to severely (like 20-30 degrees in some places) retard the cam in the cruising/light accel ranges for an EGR effect for fuel mileage.

 

I kill that, lose no mileage, and pick up part throttle response/torque.

 

Just FYI, it doesn't change the intake cam, it moves the whole cam. LSA is fixed just like on non-variable cams, it retards intake/exhaust together. No separate adjustment for intake and/or exhaust.

Edited by Higgs Boson
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This is true at full throttle but there are separate maps/tables for part throttle. It's programmed to severely (like 20-30 degrees in some places) retard the cam in the cruising/light accel ranges for an EGR effect for fuel mileage.

 

I kill that, lose no mileage, and pick up part throttle response/torque.

 

Just FYI, it doesn't change the intake cam, it moves the whole cam. LSA is fixed just like on non-variable cams, it retards intake/exhaust together. No separate adjustment for intake and/or exhaust.

I knew it rotated the entire cam, I just wasn't aware there was a mid-range schedule.

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