Regulated Voltage Control 73% State of Charge

[georg]

I have the SARVC in my truck and I can monitor it with my Tech2 and the SOC has never been higher than 73%. This happens even on long trips on the highway with not much electrical load on - fuel pump, ignition, injectors, DRLs totalling maybe 20 amps, certainly not exceeding 25 amps. There is no AC on my truck and I dont keep the blower fan on. The SARVC is not even commanding the alternator to generate much current. Here is the screen from the Tech2

 

http://s299.photobucket.com/user/george7941/media/100_0640.jpg.html?o=0

 

As you can see, the SARVC is not even trying to bring the SOC to 80 % up from the current SOC of 66%. Why is that? The GM FSM states that the SARVC strives to maintain the battery at 80% SOC.

[Jsdirt]

In this day and age, I don't trust anyone. My logic is sound.

[MikeNH]

Are you getting any warning lights or error messages? If not, I wouldn't worry about it.

[georg]

I am not getting any warning lights or error messages and I am not worried about it.

 

It looks to me to be a software error in the SARVC since it is not doing what it is supposed to do, i.e. maintain the battery at 80% SOC. The penalty to maintaining the battery at a lower SOC would be a slightly shorter battery life due to more sulfation and lower reserve capacity in case I run into electrical issues when I am out in the boonies and have difficulty cranking the engine.

 

Does anybody have feedback on what SOC their batteries are maintained at? Anybody with a capable scan tool, please check and post the SOC of the battery. The pathing for the tech2 is body>regulated voltage control>data.

[Jsdirt]

This is the main reason I hate electronics. Who's to say that this wasn't done on purpose, in order to boost battery sales? Programmed self-destruct devices. I've got a '02 Duramax sitting dead in the backyard with some magic box failure right now ...

 

When my truck was new, I killed the battery flat just listening to the radio 2 weeks after rolling it off the showroom floor. Window sticker said it had "battery run down protection", so I figured some tunes while installing some accessories wouldn't be a big deal. Some protection! Charged it back up, and when I went to start it, I got all kinds of warning lights and a message for "overcharge". Was obviously still under warranty, so I brought it in, and they tweaked the computer somehow to output a bit more to the battery. The gauge ran slightly higher after this - it used to constantly appear as though the alternator was nearly dead. I'm sure it's some "dealer only" software that would cost the average joe a fortune ...

[georg]

I used to keep the radio on loudly in my truck for hours at a time while I worked near by but found out that, even though the radio did not consume much current, keeping the radio on kept the modules (PCM, Body, Cluster etc) in the truck awake with a total draw of 3.2 amps and it was not good for battery life for the battery to be frequently depleted like that.

[Jsdirt]

I still got close to 8 years out of the OEM battery, but only because of my 3-stage charger. Even sold it for $40 on Craigslist - was still good, just not what it once was.

 

I throw that charger on any time the radio goes on now. I bought a Odyssey AGM for it this past winter. Super expensive, so got to take care of it.

[MikeNH]

This is the main reason I hate electronics. Who's to say that this wasn't done on purpose, in order to boost battery sales? Programmed self-destruct devices. I've got a '02 Duramax sitting dead in the backyard with some magic box failure right now ...

 

When my truck was new, I killed the battery flat just listening to the radio 2 weeks after rolling it off the showroom floor. Window sticker said it had "battery run down protection", so I figured some tunes while installing some accessories wouldn't be a big deal. Some protection! Charged it back up, and when I went to start it, I got all kinds of warning lights and a message for "overcharge". Was obviously still under warranty, so I brought it in, and they tweaked the computer somehow to output a bit more to the battery. The gauge ran slightly higher after this - it used to constantly appear as though the alternator was nearly dead. I'm sure it's some "dealer only" software that would cost the average joe a fortune ...

That logic is insane. Batteries usually last beyond the warranty and only a tiny percentage will return to the dealer for a new one. Most end up buying one roadside if they get caught by surprise or limp it to autozone where they install it for free.