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Why does GM use the short E-core filters?


the blur

Question

Just wondering if anyone knows why GM uses the shorter filters, with the E-core media?

We know the longer filter has more capacity, and more filter media.

 

There are no clearance issues at all. The filter is still protected from road debris, as the oil pan hangs much lower.

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My guess is that they have hundreds of engineers accountants that have gone over all the stats they have accumulated over the decades and figure that what they are using is sufficient for the job at hand. I don't buy the cost difference being the reason simply because if they save a dime over 10 million vehicles they could have simply added a dollar to the price of each vehicle and made an extra 9 million dollars.

 

Fixed that for you.

 

Anyone that works for an auto manufacturer will tell you that saving them $0.10 per vehicle would be a big deal.

 

I stocked up on Mobil 1 M1-212 oil filters when they were on sale recently. Very nice filters.

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Toyota is getting weird with them. My Tacoma had the spin on type up top. It was a bit messy but it did have a built in funnel to allow draining. Now, they have the cartridge type in the bottom. To drain it, you remove a small plug, install a drain tube that comes with the filter, drain the housing and only then you can use a filter socket (and from what I've read only the expensive Toyota one works worth a damn) to pull the cap and change the filter. They also don't offer an access panel in the skid plate for this on the trucks. Toyota used to be one of the best for maintenance friendliness from my experience but that was a bit silly.

 

 

I recall there being a north american made 4x4 in the 80's that did something similar, except you could get at the filter from the side with the skid plate left on, but, that would then leave about half a quart of oil trapped on the skid plate, so it would drip for a few weeks unless you used the pressure wash wand on it, or removed the skid plate before removing the filter. Cannot recall which make it was though. Filter was on left side of engine.

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I use commercial grade from auto stores that you buy by the dozen. Same filter used by many quick lube service centers. Made by various manufacturers with millions of miles on millions of vehicles. I do 3k mile oil changes so good for me.

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I've been running K&N filters in mine since it was new. Mainly due to the 1" hex on the bottom - makes filter changes sooo much easier. Over the years I did eventually end up buying a set of filter sockets, since engineers these days have been getting pretty creative in hiding them in the worst possible places.

 

Once my stockpile of K&Ns are gone, I'll switch to a Pure One filter.

 

Toyota is getting weird with them. My Tacoma had the spin on type up top. It was a bit messy but it did have a built in funnel to allow draining. Now, they have the cartridge type in the bottom. To drain it, you remove a small plug, install a drain tube that comes with the filter, drain the housing and only then you can use a filter socket (and from what I've read only the expensive Toyota one works worth a damn) to pull the cap and change the filter. They also don't offer an access panel in the skid plate for this on the trucks. Toyota used to be one of the best for maintenance friendliness from my experience but that was a bit silly.

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The oil filter on trucks with the "new" (shorter) manufacturer warranty will look like this:

attachicon.giffilter.jpg

 

:thumbs:

so long

j-ten-ner

No. That has a metal endcap on the filter media so it cant be GM
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Pressure and performance specs. Each filter is chosen based on requirements of the engine.

 

For example, don't put a PF48 on a 2014 truck that uses a PF63:

 

Condition/Concern

Some customers may comment on an SES light P0521 and low oil pressure after an oil and filter change.

Recommendation/Instructions

If this is encountered and the oil and filter were just changed, inspect the oil filter part number.

The correct part number is PF63 89017525.

The PF48 oil filter will fit, but can cause the oil pressure to go low and DTC P0521 to set.

PF63 part number 89017525 is for the GEN5 V6 and V8.

PF48 is for the GEN4 V8.

 

Same for the 3.6 V6 that used to use the PF48 until 2012 when they switched:

 

Importance of Using the GM Recommended Replacement ACDelco® PF63E Oil Filter

Notice: ACDelco® PF63E (GM #19330000) oil filters meet GMPT performance specifications as defined by General Motors.

 

The purpose of this bulletin is to reinforce to the Service Personnel the critical importance of using the recommended replacement ACDelco® PF63E oil filter that is specified by General Motors for these V6 engines when servicing them in order to ensure proper engine oil filtration and engine performance.

Beginning in 2012 the V6 engine was redesigned with tighter engine tolerances. The oil pressure was increased to accommodate these tighter tolerances. As a result, the oil filter specifications of the production oil filter and the service oil filter were also improved to meet the new engine requirements.

These V6 engines are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filter PF64, which is commonly confused by many in the automobile service industry as an ACDelco® PF48 because both oil filters have the same appearance and oil can size. However these two oil filters are not the same and have different internal specifications. The OEM PF64 oil filter has a much higher bypass valve rating that matches the service oil filter requirement of the PF63E which was specifically chosen to match the performance demands of these engines.

The ACDelco® PF64 oil filter installed by the manufacturing plant meets the specifications of the ACDelco® PF63E, but due to the length of the ACDelco® PF63E oil filter can, the engine plant cannot build with it because it currently interferes with the assembly line process.

ACDelco® PF63E Primary Performance Improvements

The PF63E primary performance improvement relates to the bypass valve design. The ACDelco® PF63E has a compression spring loaded nylon poppet that outperforms the current valve design.

 

Other benefits include the following:

  • Designed with five times greater burst strength than most engine oil operating pressures after the oil reaches operating temperatures.
  • Bypass valve opening pressure has been increased from 100 to 150 kPa and is statistically more capable.
  • Patented cellulose media traps particles that are 1/3 the width of a human hair.
  • 98 percent single-pass filtering efficiency at 25-30 microns.
  • Hot oil durability has been improved by the elimination of adhesive.
  • Improved level of robustness to water accumulation.
  • Excellent cold weather performance −22°F (−30°C) when using dexos1®.
  • The element integrity (collapse strength), remains the same.
  • The excellent filtration performance (efficiency and capacity) remains the same.
  • The filter shell configuration is unchanged, which means existing oil filter cap wrenches continue to fit.

 

 

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I've been running K&N filters in mine since it was new. Mainly due to the 1" hex on the bottom - makes filter changes sooo much easier. Over the years I did eventually end up buying a set of filter sockets, since engineers these days have been getting pretty creative in hiding them in the worst possible places.

 

Once my stockpile of K&Ns are gone, I'll switch to a Pure One filter.

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My guess is that they have hundreds of engineers that have gone over all the stats they have accumulated over the decades and figure that what they are using is sufficient for the job at hand. I don't buy the cost difference being the reason simply because if they save a dime over 10 million vehicles they could have simply added a dollar to the price of each vehicle and made an extra 9 million dollars.

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I'm sure there are reasons. I can tell you without question I had noticable startup clatter when I switched in the longer PF63 for the PF48. I switched back, noise gone. Some will tell me that it doesn't make sense, all I know is what I observed first hand.

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This past winter I ran 0w20 Mobile in my truck. For the first winter since buying the truck I never had even one noisy startup. That oil is still in the engine, and due to medical conditions the truck will sit for weeks at a time without being used. Last night I drove the truck for the first time since mid june. It started right up, and did not make a sound. From posts I have read over the last 5 years, having an intermittent noisy startup is heard by many. I am the first to acknowledge that people do not say anything when no noise happens, so reading about many hearing this noise has to be considered with that in mind.

I chose to try the 0w20 at the last minute, I was at one of those quick-lub places, and was looking at the oil cans on display. Got the "technician" to use it instead of the 5x30 he was insisting I needed. Always find it amusing when the "technician" could be my grandchild, and he still thinks I need to follow his many weeks of experience advice. Almost as much fun as having the service adviser dumb down the diagnosis so I will be able to understand.

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I'm 100% certain it's due to cost. Anytime an auto manufacturer changes something, it's to save money, longevity be damned.

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I'm sure there are reasons. I can tell you without question I had noticable startup clatter when I switched in the longer PF63 for the PF48. I switched back, noise gone. Some will tell me that it doesn't make sense, all I know is what I observed first hand.

My motor was very clattery on cold days dead of winter, on startup. (E-core filter). Sounded like a diesel. Guess we'll see this winter now that I switched to the Fram Ultra long filter.

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