2001 GMC Sierra fuel & brake line replacement post #2, 3

[ken bean]

Hello, Having trouble replacing factory fuel lines in 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext cab. I've read this forum as well as looked at you tube. Looks like I will have to raise cab or remove trans to gain access to the lines running up to the engine. The 3 lines look ok from the engine to the first rubber hose joint. The problem is the lines are leaking at the tank and the the crimp collars are really rusted bad at the rubber hose joint. I've purchased new lines but man they look impossible to put in unless you raise the cab or remove trans. Considering replacing lines from that point back to the tank but I do not know if I can get a proper replacement crimp collar and a good crimp. Any replies would be great.

[Danimal260]

The thing I find strange is that there is no external fuel filter on my truck. 2 lines is all I have running from the tank to the motor. I'm working on getting them loose before the new 2 piece lines get here. We will see what happens.

 

 

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[sahls01gmc]

Calipers are cheap. And might not be a bad investment. I've replaced everything except the actual steel lines, and the brakes have never felt better!

[Danimal260]

5.3. This truck spent its life in Canada evidently. So now I get to deal with the rust issue. No worries though. It'll last me another 6-8 years in sure. Got the fuel lines routed, pretty close to where they need to be minus a couple brackets. Like the one that goes on the transmission case. Yeah, wasn't going to deal with putting that devil back in place and try to feed the lines together. They were already a bitch to do in the first place. And I got the 2 piece set. Everything is held pretty solid so I'm leaving it at that. Zip ties work wonders. As far as the ABS controller, I had to loosen it up and move it just enough to get the fuel lines behind it. Surprisingly the bolts came loose real nice. All that's left it installing the fuel tank tonight since I ran out of light last night.

 

 

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[zach1990]

Ken, sorry you didn't get the help you needed initially, but great write up! I'm sure someone will be very grateful for this!

 

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[ken bean]

What's your engine size Dan, It looks like the filter may be in the tank on the fuel pump. Odd.

[Danimal260]

Ken, as far as bleeding the brakes with the new lines, how much trouble did you have? Did you bleed the ABS controller with a scan tool? Gravity bleed first? Hoping I get a response before I get home tonight. Bleeding is all that's left for me.

 

 

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[ken bean]

I have a 2001 GMC Sierra, I don't know how similar your chassis is to mine, make note of the fuel line clamp positions on the lines and the location under the truck. If you have a smart phone taking pictures help me. I used a very long flat blade screw driver to undo clamps, you know, the one's GM uses to go through metal brackets, ie plastic point with ribs, I had to remove a bracket on the transfer case, if remember right. Anyway the bracket is obvious, but since you have 3 single fuel lines your approach may be different. By far the hardest part for me was the very last fuel line bracket at the top of the tranny just behind the engine. We though about cutting hole in floor board, raising the cab a couple inches, but after several hours struggle I was able to position the 3 lines properly in the old clamp, and refasten the latch. Once again I was in no hurry to fix the truck other than hoping the weather would stay dry. Like many people I'm outside on the ground. Note: Siphon as much gas out of the tank as possible. I covered all quick release hoses with zip lock plastic bags to keep dirt and moisture out. My fuel lines were so rusty at the tank I has to take a metal probe, looks like a dental tool, and gently remove the rust around the metal tubing so I could squeeze the quick disconnects. My main Fuel line feed was 3/8, fuel line return was 5/16 and one vapor line that went to the carbon canister. But you should still make good notation of the lines before removal. Like I said because my repairs we done over a couple week period, I covered all the open tubing lines with ziplock sandwich bags, i know it sounds funny but that's me. I also use these bags to organize bolts and clamps or anything else that I will forget were they go in an hour. Take a marker and write a description on the bag. Like I took the ABS bolts and the fuel line bracket nuts put them in a plastic bag done no guesswork doing back on. There was a special plastic fuel line bracket that connected to the oxygen sensor wire, bingo off it came into a bag label bag, done no guess work 2 weeks later putting it back on. For a quick disconnect and replace I use masking tape, and label each side of connection A A then B B, so on and so on. Sorry for long post.

[ken bean]

Update additional notes, sequence of install for the brake lines, I purchased the OEM prebent brake lines from GM dealer. They come vinyl coated, their ok but I would probably do the SS ones next time, just a little more peace of mind. Anyway I ran the rear one first, then the right front next, I wanted as much room as possible going around the cabin frame mount under the left corner of the cab. I removed the splash guard under the radiator/fan shroud. then removed the old line paying attention to the routing. Then I straightened the new brake line as directed, I used the edge of my tire to straighten the line because of the soft rubber would not damage the vinyl coating, then started running the new line in from underneath along the left frame rail, snaking the line back far enough to get the portion to drop down across the underside of the frame. Then gentle bent the tube out enough to get the end started up and around to the right side of the frame. Being careful not to kink the new line. Once the line is in you may need to flex the line in the opposite direction to remove any tension so the line stay's in the frame clamps. Next to go in was the left front line because they sit next to each other in the frame brackets, I think I put it in from the front to the back. Next to go in were the 2 master cylinder lines. Make sure the ABS end of the lines are routed properly meaning that there are 2 electrical harnesses next to the frame, the brake lines run along the very top of the outside edge of the frame. Take pictures of the old lines before removal.

 

Eye protection, there's lots of rust under the truck so I used simple 3M goggles that cover the whole eye area they also covered my glasses.

 

Once the all the lines were in then I install the ABS unit. See description in previous post.

[Danimal260]

Nevermind. Got her done.

 

 

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[ken bean]

Update, unbolted the forward drive shaft to gain access to the lines running up to the back of the motor. I still could not reach top clamp to remove it so I opened it with a screw driver, Then we tried pushing up the lines to remove the vapor line connection, that was no good. So I disconnected the vapor line at the front of the engine to give us slack, then we pulled the lines down far enough to undo the flexible plastic vapor line then bingo out can the lines. I will try to put the new lines in soon. I covered up all the open connections on the engine to keep debris out. I'm also replacing all the brake lines so unbolting and moving the ABS module will not be a issue. I've purchased OEM GM fuel lines, they come as one long unit, I may repurchase after market lines because they come in 2 sections which may make installation easier. Also I would not have to remove the torsion bar cross member.

[ken bean]

Update, all done. Once I removed the ABS, remember to disconnect battery, pulling in the replacement fuel lines was simpler, definitely a two person job. I decided to leave the original bracket in place that bolted to the top of the transmission bell housing. I was able to open the clamp from underneath and close the clamp back after a long struggle. I took multiple pictures of the old fuel line location with my phone to ensure fitment of the new line. Two other tricks I would say I used was in order to release the vapor line connector from the engine end of the line I had to disconnect the vapor line from the engine and pull the entire fuel line assembly down low enough to reach the vapor line connector. Going back in I did the reverse, with the fuel line assembly ready to reinstalled attach the vapor line when just in reach. Luckily the vapor line that attaches to the engine is made of very flexible plastic. I also attached a string to the main fuel supply and return fuel supply so my friend could guild the two lines in place as i pushed from underneath. Obviously leave all the OEM caps on both ends of the new lines, I added a couple wraps of electrical tape around the caps just make sure the caps did not fall off. I also zip tied all electrical bundles away from were the fuel lines ran. I labeled and disconnected as many electrical connections as possible, Removed a bracket on the transfer case, In general make as much room as possible. I did not remove torsion bars or any other cross members. My advise to any one doing this job, that does not want to remove the ABS would be to look into getting the two piece fuel lines. This would allow you to install the front half of the lines right up to ABS the make a mechanical joint with the rubber hoses provided and continue the run back to the fuel tank. The brake lines were easier for me because I had done these before. Since I had already removed the fuel tank running the rear line was easy. I removed the spare tire giving me full access to both sides of the rear. I replaced all rubber hoses, all bleeders and banjo bolts. I downloaded a diagram of the ABS brake line routing , so you know which line goes to were. Then I labeled each line before pulling the lines in.This helped me identify the line under the truck as I attached them to the ABS. I also wrapped both lines of the lines with tape to keep the dirt out. I took extreme care of the ABS unit, mainly to keep moisture and debris out of the unit. While still attached to the truck I cut each line about 1 inch away from the ABS. Then removed ABS and took it into my shed, I did not want any dirt or moisture getting into the ABS. A prepped the ABS by cleaning the dirt from around the tube connectors before removing the old tubing flares. I removed the tubing from the flare nuts , cleaned the flare nuts and wrapped the nuts with electrical tape then screwed the flare nuts back in, all this to keep the ABS clean. Leaving the flare nuts in also helps to keep the dirt out while attaching the new brake lines. I left the last couple brake line frame brackets loose until I connected all the brake lines into the ABS, you need as much movement in the lines as possible to attach to the ABS. I also did not attach the ABS to the frame until all the lines were attached to the ABS. Be very careful aligning each line to the ABS, the ABS is aluminum and very easy to cross thread each brake line. I started with the rear brake line, top right of three. Then middle top then top left, then bottom right then bottom left. Make sure top row of lines are snug do not over tighten, my logic was better to have a small leak then to over tighten and break the ABS. I purchased a set of crowfoot line wrenches just in case but did not need them. In your case you can check crowfoot clearance of the line while the ABS is off the vehicle if your concerned. Be very patient hooking up these lines, I would not put a wrench to the line unless I got at least 3 to 4 or 5 good twists of the flare nut first. If there was any question on alignment I unscrewed the flare nut and put in the empty flare nut from my old line to made sure the threads were not starting to cross. This process is very time consuming. Your working in a very cramped area with very stiff brake lines. Once all the lines are connected, bolt ABS to frame and connect both wires. I recheck all flare nuts at the wheels, then used my pressure bleeder to add fluid to system, I purchased a pressure bleeder for the first brake line replacement I did. It's basically a container you put your brake fluid in and pump it up we did like 5 lbs, it has a gauge on it, but anyway you fill your master cylinder first then attach this pressure bleeder then pump it up. Then you go around to each wheel and bleed out air. We do not spare any fluid let that sucker drain. Then go around and do it 2 more times. Installed fuel tank, connected both ends of fuel line, install carbon canister at the fuel tank. Put gas back into tank, connected battery, got my fire extinguisher, just in case, put key in turn on for about 10 seconds, turn key off, turn key on to start, wow tried to start again no good, tried 5 more times oh boy. went to front of truck, thinking WTF, then I remembered I unplugged fuel pump relay. Duh. plugged in fuel pump relay did prime procedure again, checking for visual leaks, all good, go to start, truck started after 2nd try, no leaks, and no check engine lights, knock on wood. That's it so far, Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps someone else.

[Danimal260]

I have this same issue. I just received my OE brake line kit yesterday and when I went under the truck to spray PB Blaster on everything that needed to be loosened, I noticed the fuel lines leaking at the tank. I ordered a 2 piece line kit. So if I understand correctly, I shouldn't need to remove the ABS unit to feed them in? I'm really not looking forward to doing these repairs on the ground, but I have the knowledge to do them. Just may need to work on the patience. Rear crossover line for the brakes looks great and so do the bleeders back there. The front is a whole different story. I'm praying I don't have a bleeder break up there and need to replace my caliper(s).

 

 

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[sahls01gmc]

Ken, thank you for taking the time to post this. I'm sure my time is about up with my original fuel lines, and your write up will definitely give me some pointers when it comes time to replace them.

 

Hopefully your truck is running like new again!