Tongue weight question...

sdeeter19555 · August 30, 2015

I'm buying a 24ft ultralight...3750 total, 495 tongue.

Why would I need a WDH on a 2500? My current popup has a tongue weight of 450 and weighs just over 3000, and I tow that sans WDH without any issues whatsoever...same with my 18th utility trailer...even empty it's got to be nearly 400 tongue.

I'm really wanting to avoid the WDH for simplicity.

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ember1205 · August 30, 2015

Who stated that you need one?

sdeeter19555 · August 30, 2015

The camper sales of course...I'm thinking run it and see if I need a WDH? The want to add one onto the cost of the sale...without really asking me.

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NEFisher11 · August 30, 2015

With your oversized rear hitch on your truck I believe gm says you don't have to use one. 450lbs isn't alot, I mean on my 1500 I wouldn't be afraid to run with out a wdh. But try it wiyh out one they are not cheap to buy.

ember1205 · August 30, 2015

I would challenge the camper company directly and ask them to cite the reasons why they say you need one.

500 lbs of tongue weight is well within the values of what the truck can handle directly on the hitch itself and the sub-500 number you listed does not require a WDH. Period.

You could find yourself bearing a fair amount more tongue weight if you load the trailer with cargo. Check your owner's manual and the stickers on the truck to determine the exact max tongue weight that your truck can handle. Be sure, too, to take into considering cargo in the bed of the truck - that will deduct from the total amount of tongue weight your hitch and axle can actually carry.

Now, if the camper place wants you to invest in an ANTI-SWAY system, that would seem a fair amount more reasonable. Maybe the person you're dealing with is also not used to selling to people that have a properly equipped vehicle to pull one of those trailers without the WDH.

Blue2500CC · August 31, 2015

Congrats on the new rig!!!

While you may not end up needing a wd hitch, it will restore the weight that is lost off the front axle. Otherwise the steering may feel light when driving down the road.

Are the weights you posted "DRY Brochure Weights"? What is the GVWR of the trailer? With a 500lb dry tw, it is listed without the propane tanks and battery on the tongue. Depending on the size of the propane tanks, you will be adding ~120-160lbs (2-20lbs & battery ~120lbs, 2-30lbs & battery ~ 160lbs) before even loading the trailer with clothes, gear, or food. Where is the fresh water tank located, in front of or behind the axles? Will you be hauling full tank of fresh water, or just a few gallons for roadside stops if needed? As you may know with travel trailers, you generally need 12-15% of the total loaded trailer weight for tw for a stable tow. IF your loaded trailer weight is 5k lbs (estimated), you tw could be 600lbs -750lbs, plus remember to add the hitch as well (IF a wd hitch about 100lbs). And as mentioned, any cargo weight in the bed behind the rear axle will decrease front axle weight.

Does the trailer have a front storage? Loading that with chairs, grill, ez-up, etc will add a fair amount to the tw as well. Our 32 BHDS has a dry tw of ~900lbs, loaded we are ~1400lbs w/ full propane & battery, empty fresh water tanks (have 2).

As mentioned, if you do decide to go with the wd htch, I also would suggest a wd hitch with integrated sway control. Reese Dual Cam, Reese SC, or Equal-I-Zer 4 way systems are very good, middle of the road priced set ups. I have read some good things about the newer Blue Ox system also, but not real familiar with it. The top Husky Centerline sounds like a good system, but you need to be in almost a straight line when hooking up or unhooking the bars. the Anderson system sounds decent also, but for lighter tw's (which you probably will have) and it does not work with a couple different style couplers, so research before going with the Anderson.

As for simplicity, it isn't much more work. If you have a power tongue jack, it makes it a lot easier!

Chevor · August 31, 2015

I don't use one on my 3/4. I prefer to use a solid 2.5 ballmount. Dislike slop using 2"adapter.

sdeeter19555 · August 31, 2015

Those are dry weights, as is my Coleman Evolution E3. I would guess I'm in the 600 range with the E3 loaded (front deck storage) and with full bottles and full of water (single axle, tank is ahead of the axle)...but even then, with a rank of firewood between the wheel wells, two heavy coolers, and all my tools; the truck handles that just fine. I've never had a situation where I thought a WDH would help.

I guess I was wondering if it had something to do with the length and maybe it bobbing...I really didn't understand why he was pushing it.

I do have a 2.5 inch hitch, but it is used with my 5x8, the one I use with the E3 is a 2" forged in the adapter (I don't like the slop either)....if I need to, I will buy another.

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sdeeter19555 · August 31, 2015

Again, not my first rodeo with trailers; just trying to understand if a WDH was needed...never used one before as I've always owned 2500s and the truck adequately carried everything I needed.

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ember1205 · August 31, 2015

Best advice would be to A) Consult the owner's manual for manufacturer recommendations and requirements and B) look at the hitch itself. If anything happens while you're towing, those are what the attorneys and/or insurance company are going to go by.

sdeeter19555 · August 31, 2015

Based on that logic, I'm well within my capacity...class V hitch, a 2500hd, and a trailer that's less than half my towing capacity.

And don't get me wrong, that was planned. I didn't want a trailer near my GTW, for the simple fact it's less stressful on the truck and on me. I was "informed" by a different dealer that this size trailer was built specifically for the people with Explorers....really. They then tried pushing me towards trailer "in your truck's capacity".

The dealer I'm going with is pretty laid back...but it was amazing how many pegged you when you walked in and knew what you wanted...

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Chevor · August 31, 2015

Tell them your delivering a new one and watch everyone vanish.

barry G · August 31, 2015

weight distribution hitch, your not adding strength, just being nice to your truck.

take the localizing point out of that ball.

receiver hitch is the dumb thing to add.. in fact its attacked every truck I can remember.

distributing weight may not need to add another ball anywhere... still use the bumper.

I am surprised this is not more drawn out after so many decades.

my 96 half ton has 400 tongue and 4000 tow max written right on the cheap bumper.

sdeeter19555 · October 11, 2015

Took possession of my new trailer today, a 2016 Passport Ultra-lite. Set it on the ball and it dropped the rear suspension about a half an inch. Took it about twenty miles on backroads, and it was very easy to pull. As long as it doesn't handle weird on the highway, I see no reason for a weight distributing hitch.

Believe it or not, my popup seems to have had a lot more tongue weight and set the truck down further.

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