0w20 idea for those that use it

Cowpie · November 11, 2015

Was doing some digging around because of a topic on another forum and decided to take a look at what the Petroleum Quality Institute of America had to show from some analysis of 0w20 oils. Was an eye opener. Based on what they showed, if I had to use a 0w20, I would jump on the Quaker State Ultimate Durability. It is a killer oil with a VERY stout additive package. It slapped the Mobil 1 like a red headed step child. Extremely strong level of Calcium, which is the primary component for TBN and detergency. TBN controls acids from combustion. Think of it as Tums for your motor. It also had a killer level of Moly. That is a outstanding friction modifier that is a great compliment to Zinc, which is in most oils. Here is a a set of articles related to moly and the benefit of having it in motor oil...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly-basics/

It also had the 2nd lowest NOACK (burn off) rating of all those tested in this comparison. The lower the NOACK, the better. The Mobil 1 got that one, but the QSUD was chasing Mobil's tail on that one.

If I had a need for a good 0w20, I would jump on the QSUD 0w20 in a heartbeat. It probably can be had a very competitive pricing to any of the other major brands and even sales from time to time.

here is the comparison of some 0w20 oils that PQIA did....

http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%202014/consolidated%200W-20.html

07Softail · November 11, 2015

Interesting

RT

HondaHawkGT · November 12, 2015

My favorite section of the PQIA website is the consumer alert list on the right side of the front page. They've analysed a few gas station mystery oils that appeared to be recycled oil.

U.S. Economy Motor Oil 5-30 - "For top off only":

http://www.pqiamerica.com/Janaury%202012%20test%20results/useconomy.htm

Liberty Gold Plus SMO 5W-30 Motor Oil

http://www.pqiamerica.com/Liberty2011.htm

"Further, the product tested contains 99 parts per million of silicon. Silicon is typically associated with abrasive material that can be harmful to an engine. The sample tested shows an oil that should not be used in an automobile engine as it could cause engine damage."

Sorry to get off topic haha.

My last fill was M1 EP and a little M1 AFE. It was only afterwards that I looked at the oil analysis results for M1 EP over at BITOG. The weaker TBN (vs the competition) and wear levels was a bit surprising. I'm probably going to try a new brand next time. I try to stick with higher TBN's due to all the short trips I have to do in the winter for work. A subpar oil just doesn't hold up well to that kind of abuse.

I'm curious how the NOACK volatility relates to carbon buildup on DI engines. The oil that volatizes has to get carried through the PCV and end up on the valves, trapping combustion gases from blow-by with it.

Cowpie · November 13, 2015

I would think that low NOACK would be the ticket for a DI, or any of the AFM motors. The lower the NOACK, the better. Dexos1 has a limit of around 12, though some places say 13. The European specs usually call for a NOACK 10 or lower. Euro standards have always been a little more stringent than U.S. standards. Amsoil Signature 0w20 comes in at 10. About the same as the M1 I linked above, but a lot more expensive. Their XL line hits 12.5. Right on the edge of the dexos limit.

But the other factor as it relates to oil vapor making it thru the PCV line and into the intake, and subsequently on the valves, has a lot to do with agitation of the oil as it gets flung around the motor. There will always be some level of "misting" that occurs, and also vapors that come from NOACK loss. About the only somewhat foolproof method to keep this from getting to intake is to use some form of oil "catch can" filtration setup. All the commercial heavy diesels have PCV oil filtration units as part of the engine design from the factory. The auto and pickup OEM's are not that forward thinking.

fondupot · November 13, 2015

I plan on using Amsoil Signature 0W20 on my next change, but I would consider the Quaker state. I used Quaker State oil in a previous truck and never had engine issues. Racked up over 130k miles.

Too bad they didn't test the Amosil in this particular sample.

Tek74 · November 14, 2015

Too bad they didn't test the Amosil in this particular sample.

That was my thought as well, as I run Amsoil oil and filters.

Cowpie · November 15, 2015

There is one way to know.... send in a virgin sample of the Amsoil you are using to a testing lab. the best would be the one that Amsoil itself sells analysis kits for, Oil Analyzers, Inc. You can send in a sample and have it tested and get the report back on what the major portions of the oil are and their numbers. At least you will know the start off numbers so that if you send in a used oil sample in the future, you will already have the baseline for comparison and how it compares to the others in the PQIA comparison results.

'01LS1 · November 16, 2015

My last fill was M1 EP and a little M1 AFE. It was only afterwards that I looked at the oil analysis results for M1 EP over at BITOG. The weaker TBN (vs the competition) and wear levels was a bit surprising. I'm probably going to try a new brand next time. I try to stick with higher TBN's due to all the short trips I have to do in the winter for work. A subpar oil just doesn't hold up well to that kind of abuse.

Interesting, when I looked up BITOG site, they really liked Mobil 1 EP 5w-30. That was about 2 yrs ago, so maybe they found something?

HondaHawkGT · November 18, 2015

They changed their formulation a couple years ago. There were a couple threads on BITOG about it. They figured the reduction in calcium and increase in magnesium was for cost cutting purposes. Calcium is preferred over magnesium but more expsensive. Nothing wrong with the oil really. I just think that for the cost of Mobil 1, there are better oils for the 'severe duty' my truck goes through in the winter.

Georgia1911 · November 20, 2015

They changed their formulation a couple years ago. There were a couple threads on BITOG about it. They figured the reduction in calcium and increase in magnesium was for cost cutting purposes. Calcium is preferred over magnesium but more expsensive. Nothing wrong with the oil really. I just think that for the cost of Mobil 1, there are better oils for the 'severe duty' my truck goes through in the winter.

Except that I noted in that PQIA analysis, the M1 had the lowest viscosity at -25C. Given that, it may be the best choice if cold starts are a concern.

HondaHawkGT · November 20, 2015

Im not so much concerned about cold starts as I am about the TBN dropping off too soon. I've seen Amsoil's signature series TBN drop like rock by 10k or so due to short trips. I have heaters to get the oil pan warmed up if need be but all the moisture and blow-by contaminants are still a burden on engine oil.

Dnt · August 6, 2016

Pays to do some research I guess. For some reason I had associated Quaker State with cheap not very good oil. I may just go get some and run it after reading this. So what filter do you guys like (other than the amsoil fans) and run with your high calcium content Quaker State?

Chris · August 6, 2016

Pays to do some research I guess. For some reason I had associated Quaker State with cheap not very good oil. I may just go get some and run it after reading this. So what filter do you guys like (other than the amsoil fans) and run with your high calcium content Quaker State?

Amsoil prices are comparable to Mobil 1. Before Amsoil I used Mobil 1 in everything. It is a decent oil. I am interested to see an oil analysis of the new Pennzoil after a full use.

Daryl Z71 · August 7, 2016

I use Pennzoil Platinum in my Cruze. Change it out every 4000k miles. I've used Amsoil in it twice and ran it for 5000k miles. It's overkill, but with it being a turbocharged motor I'd rather be safe. The dipstick on it looks brand new at almost 41k miles. Clean as a whistle. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow.

Quaker State is owned by Pennzoil too.

BigBadSierra · August 7, 2016

I've always used Quakerstate oils. I never had an issue with any thing I ran/run it in.. I tore down the 305 in my Camaro with a 100K on it to do some upgrading. Every component in that engine was in perfect shape and zero sludge anywhere. Did this back in the 90's.

I've use it to this day because I personally seen how well it works..