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Still Not Sold On A Catch Can? Check Here...


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These seem like a simple design concept. The above You Tube video even says so. But the two manufacturers in this thread (Elite Engineering & RX Speed Works) sell them for in the $300+ price range...???

 

Any body use a cheaper model and have good success with it? I'd be interested in one at $100 - $200, assuming it came with all needed tubes, clamps, etc.

Edited by Tek74
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These seem like a simple design concept. The above You Tube video even says so. But the two manufacturers in this thread (Elite Engineering & RX Speed Works) sell them for in the $300+ price range...???

 

Any body use a cheaper model and have good success with it? I'd be interested in one at $100 - $200, assuming it came with all needed tubes, clamps, etc.

 

There are cheaper options out there. It's debatable whether they are as effective as the Elite models. The RX Speedworks cans are garbage though. They are nowhere near the same quality as the original RXP (RevExtreme Performance) cans that used to be on the market.

 

The Elite cans are one of the best on the market. Cheaper cans are Apex and UPR cans. I've also seen Moshimoto cans on forums. Not sure how well constructed they are.

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These seem like a simple design concept. The above You Tube video even says so. But the two manufacturers in this thread (Elite Engineering & RX Speed Works) sell them for in the $300+ price range...???

 

Any body use a cheaper model and have good success with it? I'd be interested in one at $100 - $200, assuming it came with all needed tubes, clamps, etc.

 

I got the base version of the Elite can for 170ish. Ive already caught a few ounces in 2 tanks of gas. The E2 is simply larger from what I could tell. The E2X is actually a superior design from what Ive read and maybe Ill upgrade but this is doing a pretty good job for now.

Edited by jrob56
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I have seen the results of cheap ones vs high quality, while the cheap ones do pull a little out the high quality pull all most all oil/water out, do it once/do it right.

 

 

For my money I would install one on both sides on a DI motor.

So you are saying to install 2 of them?

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I continue to get impressive drains out of this. In the summer it just looks like used oil, in winter or with e85 I get much more of what this video looks like. Expensive yes, however worth the peace of mind to me.

 

It is amazing how much gets caught, and 2 fold with the direct injection motors they get dirty quicker anyways. My rx can has never failed me whatsoever and still looks like new. The design may be simple, but I have tried ebay cans and get nothing close to what this does.

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If those cans were needed why would GM not add them? Also if they were allowing oil back into the environment why would the EPA not require them. Looks like a good way for GM to void a warranty.

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

Simple. It's maintenance that the customer would have to do themselves, and most people can't even find the oil dipstick now-a-days, let alone drain this can. If these things got full and clogged up the PCV system... that is bad news, and would lead to more 'warranty' claims than just not adding a can to begin with.

 

You could argue that this could be done in tandem with an oil change, but one: Not everyone goes to a dealership to get their oil changed, and two: For those that live in colder climates, condensation leads to the cans filling much faster than a warm climate year round.

 

Anyone trying to disprove that these things work and save your motor in the long run obviously don't know what a direct injection engine is. They cost about 100-200 bucks at most, and take literally 10 minutes to install. Cheap insurance. I mean hey, if you're gunna trade your truck in at 50,000 miles when she's just getting broken in, then all the power to you to not add a can. I just feel bad for the guy who buys your truck next.

 

By the way, GM DOES add these on the upper line Camaro and Corvette.

Edited by Habs
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I am on the fence about these things myself and I do understand what a DI engine is. I have drove my last two chevy trucks to the 150k mile range with both starting to consume oil around the 100k mile mark. I don't expect GM to make me a 250k mile engine but if can't get 120k miles out of this one with no major problems then it will be time to switch brands. We just got two 2015 silverados in our work fleet and we put about 50k miles a year on them. I guess I will find out in a few years when it is time for them to get traded on how well the hold up.

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I am on the fence about these things myself and I do understand what a DI engine is. I have drove my last two chevy trucks to the 150k mile range with both starting to consume oil around the 100k mile mark. I don't expect GM to make me a 250k mile engine but if can't get 120k miles out of this one with no major problems then it will be time to switch brands. We just got two 2015 silverados in our work fleet and we put about 50k miles a year on them. I guess I will find out in a few years when it is time for them to get traded on how well the hold up.

This is important - how fleet vehicles hold up that get used and abused for 200,000 miles with no "catch can"- listen I totally get what the concept behind the catch can, & I won't argue that it traps oil that would otherwise wind up going through the intake- but whether or not that stuff would actually cause harm or decrease engine life or performance is absolutely up for debate. If they were that necessary to ensuring long life and optimum performance from a DI or any engine for that matter then why wouldn't the manufacturers put them in? Why wouldn't fleet vehicles all be equipped w/ them by companies who are trying to get the most out of their fleet and rescue maintenance costs? Don't give me the whole "because the consumer wouldn't do the maintenance"- most consumers DONT do maintenance period, instead relying on dealers or their mechanic to tell the. What to do and when to do it, so you could say GM could have catch cans installed on their DI motors and just add that to the list of "regular maintenance" and up charge for it at the dealer.....

 

A lot of the liquid you're getting in these catch can is actually water vapor/condensation not just oil, it's frothy a lot of times not pure liquid. I had a catch can on my '04 GTO and I got it mainly because of the same concerns & myths on LS1 forums, but also just wanted some candy under the hood (I think was a billet designs piece anodized w/ braded lines). Well #1 regular fuel injected V8s like the LS1 in my GTO also accumulated plenty of lung butter in the plenum, but I can tell you the honest truth- I put the catch can on the car when it had 20,000 miles on it and changed it probably every 3-5000 miles. Around 77,000 miles I added some headers, swapped out the throttle body and MAF, and in the process inspected the whole engine- you could see right into the intake w/ the throttle body off and there was some build up - varnish/deposit/black crap - however you wanna describe it. Could it all have been there from the first 20.000 miles before the catch can was installed? Maybe....but doubtful.

 

So anyhow I put the headers on but got ghe wrong MAF so I had to put the same TB & MAF back on after swapping out the plugs/wires and changing the serpentine belt. I figured I'd finish the "tune up" and ran a full can of sea foam through the car- 1/4 through the vacuum line, 1/4 in the oil, the rest in the gas. Smoked like an SOB.

 

2 weeks later new TB/MAF arrive and we do an install- guess what? The intake was spotless (so wasn't the TB) - my point is that the catch can will still allow build up to accumulate in the plenum and rest of the top of the motor, it doesn't get everything. My point is also that I don't think this build up really effects the performance or longevity of a motor to any significant degree, and my point is that if you really are that OCD/anal retentive and stay up at night worrying about this stuff, an $8 bottle of sea foam will clean the engine back to factory fresh after 80,000 miles of buildup within a couple hours......so take all that for whatever it's worth.

 

It's also something the dealer could screw with you warranty-wise- 100% no arguments on that.

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Our two fleet silverados (and I think 2 more are on the way) will definitely tell me a lot that I need to know about my 2014 silvy for future problems areas. We are very hard on our work trucks and we do not take care of them near as well as I would take care of my own. I hope we get more to increase help better the statistical averages for repairs. Our trucks are bidded out every 6 months to local dealers so it may be Fords the next go around but I hope it is more chevys. The downside is after we slap the brushguard and winch these new GM's are scraping the ground and that is not a good thing in the timber industry.

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Maybe there is a reason why we don’t find a catch can from factory.

 

Say I’m driving 5000km and average 40km/h with an average engine speed of 1200rpm.

With those numbers the crank is rotating 9,000,000 times within the 5000km.

Since it is a four stroke, the engine needs two revolutions to complete a cycle.

 

Given that the cylinder is filled 100% (to make it easier) with air after the intake stroke, a 5.3L engine will pump 5.3L of air with every second revolution.

After 5000km the engine has pumped 23,850,000 liter of air through the cylinders.

 

For the whole trip the average humidity is 50% at 20*C. That means there is about 8.5 grams of water in one cubic meter of air.

If I’m not mistaken, the engine will actually pump over 200 liters of water over a distance of 5000km.

 

I don’t claim to be accurate. Maybe I’m way off. I’ve just thrown out some numbers to get an idea.

Feel free to correct me.

 

Now I’m watching the video with the guy draining 100ml out of his catch can and start wondering how much water (and oil) is actually still going into the engine.

 

so long

j-ten-ner

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Maybe there is a reason why we dont find a catch can from factory.

 

Say Im driving 5000km and average 40km/h with an average engine speed of 1200rpm.

With those numbers the crank is rotating 9,000,000 times within the 5000km.

Since it is a four stroke, the engine needs two revolutions to complete a cycle.

 

Given that the cylinder is filled 100% (to make it easier) with air after the intake stroke, a 5.3L engine will pump 5.3L of air with every second revolution.

After 5000km the engine has pumped 23,850,000 liter of air through the cylinders.

 

For the whole trip the average humidity is 50% at 20*C. That means there is about 8.5 grams of water in one cubic meter of air.

If Im not mistaken, the engine will actually pump over 200 liters of water over a distance of 5000km.

 

I dont claim to be accurate. Maybe Im way off. Ive just thrown out some numbers to get an idea.

Feel free to correct me.

 

Now Im watching the video with the guy draining 100ml out of his catch can and start wondering how much water (and oil) is actually still going into the engine.

 

so long

j-ten-ner

What is your point? The catch can is to stop oil from coking on the valves, the valves can no longer close, the heads must be taken off and disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, and new head gaskets installed.

 

I could care less how much moisture goes through the motor or down the intake.

 

There are lots of videos showing DI motors with miles on them and the results of oil/valves.

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Maybe there is a reason why we don’t find a catch can from factory.

 

Say I’m driving 5000km and average 40km/h with an average engine speed of 1200rpm.

With those numbers the crank is rotating 9,000,000 times within the 5000km.

Since it is a four stroke, the engine needs two revolutions to complete a cycle.

 

Given that the cylinder is filled 100% (to make it easier) with air after the intake stroke, a 5.3L engine will pump 5.3L of air with every second revolution.

After 5000km the engine has pumped 23,850,000 liter of air through the cylinders.

 

For the whole trip the average humidity is 50% at 20*C. That means there is about 8.5 grams of water in one cubic meter of air.

If I’m not mistaken, the engine will actually pump over 200 liters of water over a distance of 5000km.

 

I don’t claim to be accurate. Maybe I’m way off. I’ve just thrown out some numbers to get an idea.

Feel free to correct me.

 

Now I’m watching the video with the guy draining 100ml out of his catch can and start wondering how much water (and oil) is actually still going into the engine.

 

so long

j-ten-ner

 

I think you are real confused, all the air for this engine isnt passing through this can??? Only a very small fraction of that combusted air gets passed the cylinder rings referred to as blow by. This contains contaminants, unburnt fuel, air etc. This pressurizes the crank case and we dont want excessive pressure in the crankcase it will come out somewhere like a seal and cause a leak. This is what the PCV(postiive crankcase ventilation) system is used for. To bleed off that pressure. This used to be vented to atmosphere but not good environmentally so it was routed into the intake and passes through the engine again.

 

Issue with that is those contaminants and a fine oil mist is now dumping into the intake and coating everything including the intake valve on its way into the cylinder. With direct injection no fuel is washing that off the back of the valve, the fuel is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber. So we use the catch can to try to filter some to all of that oil contaminated mist out of the PCV system before it enters the intake.

Edited by jrob56
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